What MTB tyre for

[jjlynn27]

I finally went to test couple of MTBs and decided to buy one.

Plan was to spend £300 on one just to see if I'll use it as fitness tool. After few tries ended up with Cube Attention SL 19 2016.
The type of riding will be pathways and some tarmac to get there. Now, I want more roadish tyre that will;

• work reasonably on the road
• work slightly better on the pathways ('easy' trails).

Supplied tyre is 'Smart Sam' 29"



But I want something like;




Comments / Ideas / Suggestions.

Thank you.

[Herman Toothrot]

That Sam smart has an almost continuous tread pattern so should be fast rolling on road and nobbles on the edge give grip on gravel as well. The tyre you picture want to change to something like wont be as good on wet paths.

[Digga]

The Double Fighter is a bit like the Schwalbe Rock Razor. When I've been out with Basque mtb they use these on rears as they roll pretty well in their (mostly) dry terrain.



Most weight is on the rear tyre pedaling and also, off road, it's less of an issue if the rear gets sketchy. You could just swap out the rear first and see how you get on. If you are off road, a better front is desirable - it's not at all nice when the front loses grip suddenly and dumps you on the floor.

[Stiggolas]

As above, stick with the smart sam. I keep up with most of my mates hybrids using them. They are a great commuter tyre if you have a little offroad.

[ukbabz]

Smart sams are nice rolling tyres, I find that on the road my slightly older 27.5 version really good. When they're dirty you get a really good view of the areas that make contact with the road, and you can tell it isn't a huge amount!

Slightly offtopic but I'm looking at switching them due to them being good on the road they're pretty crap in the mud.

[s3fella]

Stiggolas said:

As above, stick with the smart sam. I keep up with most of my mates hybrids using them. They are a great commuter tyre if you have a little offroad.

I agree. And if you have to venture off onto an adverse camber wet grass verge on your travels, you will be glad of them side nobbles!

I'd say also that the second conti pic is better than the first for general use.

[Digga]

ukbabz said:

Slightly offtopic but I'm looking at switching them due to them being good on the road they're pretty crap in the mud.

I am massively impressed with the Schwalbe Magic Marys, using them both front and rear and seem to work in all sorts of conditions and are pretty robust in the rocks too.



Maxxis Minion DHF are a good, similar tyre and High Roller IIs make a less draggy rear set up, but then you will suffer for braking or traction (depending on which way round you've fitted them) when it is steep and/or muddy.

[Don1]

High roller 2 fan here. My ride goes from mud, hardpack, road, single/sand and loam. It seems to handle it all...

[jjlynn27]

Thanks all very much for the replies.

Here is my (rather obviously now) flawed logic to want to change tyre. The trails, if you can call them that, will be like this;



So, me needing to shed extra weight the idea was that weight on such track would be better supported by conti tire. Much better informed people are saying stick with stock ones (sam smart), that is exactly what I'm going to do. Also there will be no riding when it's wet (I know, I know).

All replies are very much appreciated, can't wait for it to get built and set up.

[Digga]

jjlynn27 said:

All replies are very much appreciated, can't wait for it to get built and set up.

If you haven't ridden for a while, you'll have forgotten how much fun it can be. I only re-started Mtb riding in 2009, after a 15 or so year break and was hooked, instantly.

Once you've got the basics covered, we can start coaching you on advanced tyre wear saving methods.

[jjlynn27]

Digga said:

jjlynn27 said:

All replies are very much appreciated, can't wait for it to get built and set up.

If you haven't ridden for a while, you'll have forgotten how much fun it can be. I only re-started Mtb riding in 2009, after a 15 or so year break and was hooked, instantly.

Once you've got the basics covered, we can start coaching you on advanced tyre wear saving methods.

I haven't ridden for a while, my last bike, well BSO, was stolen after me deciding not to lock my garage for 1 and 1/2 years .

As for the picture, please tell me that's shopped.

[neilus]

I run Furious Fred's but they do get a bit scary when the ground gets slippery. On a wet road they're okay but on wet leaves or mud they don't inspire a lot of confidence, fine loose gravel isn't too bad.

[jjlynn27]

That one I like, the looks of it. Browsing found this

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-original...



What would that be like on the trail like I linked earlier? Too awful to contemplate?

ETA: meh that maraton is not available in 29

But this is

Edited by jjlynn27 on Thursday 8th September 21:52

[Don1]

For me, lugs are too close and will get clogged in winter. Would be fine for the other ~8 months?

[jjlynn27]

I don't think that I'm going to go out when it's wet. I have separate bike permanently set up on bike trainer in my 'gym room'. Would it be viable to get spare set of wheels, something like

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPGIROEQ/gipiemme-roc...

with the same brake rotors, and the same 10 gear cassette for the back, and then just swap them over?

[Digga]

jjlynn27 said:

As for the picture, please tell me that's shopped.

Nope. Big gap, saves tyre wear.

As for your trails, I would heed other advice and not got for to 'road' a tread style. It is surprisingly easy to loose grip and you;d be better having a bit more drag (you're doing it to get/keep fit anyway) than getting an injury from slipping pedals or, worse still, hitting the deck.

[jjlynn27]

Digga said:

ope. Big gap, saves tyre wear.

As for your trails, I would heed other advice and not got for to 'road' a tread style. It is surprisingly easy to loose grip and you;d be better having a bit more drag (you're doing it to get/keep fit anyway) than getting an injury from slipping pedals or, worse still, hitting the deck.

Cool pic.

As for tyres. Yes good point for tyres. SS it is. Another newbie question; CO2, do i want them instead of pump or not?

[Digga]

jjlynn27 said:

CO2, do i want them instead of pump or not?

Expensive and unnecessary IMHO other than for XC or road racing.

[Kell]

Digga said:

jjlynn27 said:

CO2, do i want them instead of pump or not?

Expensive and unnecessary IMHO other than for XC or road racing.

Agreed. Just take a pump and patches. I've always wondered what happens if you get more punctures than CO2 cannisters. Of course you can make the same argument for patches. But they're a lot lighter and smaller to carry way more extras than you could ever need.

[Digga]

Kell said:

Digga said:

jjlynn27 said:

CO2, do i want them instead of pump or not?

Expensive and unnecessary IMHO other than for XC or road racing.

Agreed. Just take a pump and patches. I've always wondered what happens if you get more punctures than CO2 cannisters. Of course you can make the same argument for patches. But they're a lot lighter and smaller to carry way more extras than you could ever need.

Incidentally, if tyres are tubeless compatible, it is not too difficult to convert rims to tubeless and (touch wood) having done so myself, have suffered no major punctures. A decent bikeshop would be able to discuss this, but everyone I ride with has done this, simply because it works a treat.

All these fat middle aged blokes cycling to the pub can't be wrong: