Discussion
Hi All
I've just dropped off the s/s exhaust system as it had one or more baffles flying around in there, I have not opened it yet so not sure what I will find.
The exhaust was rattling like mad so one reason to fix it the other reason is to reduce the noise slightly so not to fall out with the neighbors.
My question is do I just refit the baffles?, modify it? Pack with wadding if so what type? My mate builds s/s Lorry bodies so the welding is Not a problem.
Many thanks
Rob
I've just dropped off the s/s exhaust system as it had one or more baffles flying around in there, I have not opened it yet so not sure what I will find.
The exhaust was rattling like mad so one reason to fix it the other reason is to reduce the noise slightly so not to fall out with the neighbors.
My question is do I just refit the baffles?, modify it? Pack with wadding if so what type? My mate builds s/s Lorry bodies so the welding is Not a problem.
Many thanks
Rob
Had the same issue after I bought my S2. The baffles were rattling badly so I removed the exhaust and opened up the boxes. The front oval section box was empty except for the remains of the perforated pipes, so I cleaned it out and had it welded up empty. The rear square section box was a similar story. In the rear box the gasses pass under a wavey perforated steel sheet above which is packed with wadding. For this box I had profiled perforated steel sheet welded in to match the original wave profile for about 1/2 the box length then packed it on top with glass wadding (ok it was loft insulation).
It was great afterwards, basically straight through with minimal baffling and no rattling. Unfortunately for me after several years of light use the rattle have returned so I will have to sort it again. The exhaust still has a great sound and is loud. I must have tolerant neighbours
)
Good luck with the repairs
Pete
It was great afterwards, basically straight through with minimal baffling and no rattling. Unfortunately for me after several years of light use the rattle have returned so I will have to sort it again. The exhaust still has a great sound and is loud. I must have tolerant neighbours
)Good luck with the repairs
Pete
I recently cut open the old original exhaust on my car. Here's a link to some photos which may help to explain what was inside.
s2 exhaust
Most of the inner metal baffle had rusted away and there was just some glass fibre padding in there !
s2 exhaust
Most of the inner metal baffle had rusted away and there was just some glass fibre padding in there !
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
This is how I did it.
Steel wool, perforated pipes and damper wool from company (in the Netherlands) that sell exhaust components.
This is how I did it.
Steel wool, perforated pipes and damper wool from company (in the Netherlands) that sell exhaust components.
Opened up the box today, I don't think the box is not that old as the perforated wave in the main box is like new there was wadding in the first wave and the last wave only, when new would all the waves been packed? If not would it help with noise to pack all of them?
Under the wave there was three pieces of perforated baffle about 1 1/2" x 4" that must have come from the the front oval section before it meets the main box I managed to coax them to fall down the tail pipes one at a time and out.
Under the wave there was three pieces of perforated baffle about 1 1/2" x 4" that must have come from the the front oval section before it meets the main box I managed to coax them to fall down the tail pipes one at a time and out.
Really annoying!! There have been a couple of previous posts on this but I cannot find them. Somebody out there with more patience than me may be able to get the PH search engine to work1!!
Couple of quick points. The absorption part of the silencing is the front, oval part. Two perforated tubes surrounded by absorption matting. Over time (and damage to this part of the system) the matting breaks up. You may well find some caught in the rear box. Originally there was no matting in the rear box.
Vibration is often caused by the oval section becoming dented and the pipes touching the outer casing.
No solution other than to cut it open with a 1mm disc cutter, insert new wadding and get it rewelded. I did my own. Weld it slowly, too quick and you will cause heat distortion, and over that length it can be enough to bow the whole pipe. I have seen one done by a garage that was a good 15mm out afterwards.
The wadding you can get these days is very clever. Try Car Builder Solutions or Demon Tweeks. The wadding is tightly packaged and held together by a fine thread which is destroyed by heat allowing the wadding to expand to fill the space.
Couple of quick points. The absorption part of the silencing is the front, oval part. Two perforated tubes surrounded by absorption matting. Over time (and damage to this part of the system) the matting breaks up. You may well find some caught in the rear box. Originally there was no matting in the rear box.
Vibration is often caused by the oval section becoming dented and the pipes touching the outer casing.
No solution other than to cut it open with a 1mm disc cutter, insert new wadding and get it rewelded. I did my own. Weld it slowly, too quick and you will cause heat distortion, and over that length it can be enough to bow the whole pipe. I have seen one done by a garage that was a good 15mm out afterwards.
The wadding you can get these days is very clever. Try Car Builder Solutions or Demon Tweeks. The wadding is tightly packaged and held together by a fine thread which is destroyed by heat allowing the wadding to expand to fill the space.
Hi
Thank you for the information. I have now cut open both oval and square box. Main box ok just needs repacking and welding up.
The oval section has both front entering then a y section going into a single semi crushed 1 1/2" perforated pipe welded along the top and bottom of the outer box section the perforated pipe needs replacing due to bits missing.
All that was left of the packing in the oval section would have fitted a fag packet.
What's your thoughts on reducing the the pipe size so I can get packing all around the perforated pipe as I'm looking to reduce noise levels.
Thank you for the information. I have now cut open both oval and square box. Main box ok just needs repacking and welding up.
The oval section has both front entering then a y section going into a single semi crushed 1 1/2" perforated pipe welded along the top and bottom of the outer box section the perforated pipe needs replacing due to bits missing.
All that was left of the packing in the oval section would have fitted a fag packet.
What's your thoughts on reducing the the pipe size so I can get packing all around the perforated pipe as I'm looking to reduce noise levels.
Sorry, should have read two into one perforated tube in the oval section. Do NOT reduce the pipe size, it needs the clear flow or you will set up additional back pressure and change the 'breathing' of the exhaust ports and make a marked reduction in power.
If that pipe has broken up then I think you are going to have to go to an exhaust specialist.
The packing I have referred to comes in a sheet which will slide in round that pipe then expands to fill all the space when heated.
I used:
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/silencer-ref...
If that pipe has broken up then I think you are going to have to go to an exhaust specialist.
The packing I have referred to comes in a sheet which will slide in round that pipe then expands to fill all the space when heated.
I used:
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/silencer-ref...
Hi
I've been on the web all afternoon and came to the same conclusion, I have ordered 2 1/2" perforated tube, being delivered.
I was looking at packing and the one you recommended the one most people suggested, so again I have ordered two packs and see how far that goes.
So next week some time should get it welded up and back on the car.
Again many thanks for information giving by everybody.
Rob
I've been on the web all afternoon and came to the same conclusion, I have ordered 2 1/2" perforated tube, being delivered.
I was looking at packing and the one you recommended the one most people suggested, so again I have ordered two packs and see how far that goes.
So next week some time should get it welded up and back on the car.
Again many thanks for information giving by everybody.
Rob
...when I opened up the oval section on mine recently it was empty as the perforated pipes had almost completely rotted away.
...after a lot of deliberation I bought some regular stst pipe for my local garage to weld into the square box and terminate approx 1m away at the hockey sticks - to completely replace the oval section. Note: you need to get the diameter right to fit inside the hockey sticks, but found a stockist who could supply 2x 1m lengths of the correct dia on the bay for a reasonable price.
..also had a tag of flat steel welded between them about half way along to keep them tied together (although may not be necessary)
...it didnt really sound any different...still not loud enough....but important weight saved..
...after a lot of deliberation I bought some regular stst pipe for my local garage to weld into the square box and terminate approx 1m away at the hockey sticks - to completely replace the oval section. Note: you need to get the diameter right to fit inside the hockey sticks, but found a stockist who could supply 2x 1m lengths of the correct dia on the bay for a reasonable price.
..also had a tag of flat steel welded between them about half way along to keep them tied together (although may not be necessary)
...it didnt really sound any different...still not loud enough....but important weight saved..
Edited by AutoAndy on Saturday 17th September 09:32
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