Discussion
Alas for me it's a BTR diff on e bay, but even then is this the sort of part you would buy without knowing what the state of it is?
K77 is off to APM for a recon GKN this week, for not an unreasonable about, and with a warranty.
>> Edited by k77-widow maker on Thursday 17th March 18:34
K77 is off to APM for a recon GKN this week, for not an unreasonable about, and with a warranty.
>> Edited by k77-widow maker on Thursday 17th March 18:34
Out of interest, how easy is it to remove diff in order to exch? Is it a diy jobby?
Recently sold my S and bought a 500 griff; love it already, despite the big service bill courtesy of nearby main dealers!! However, diff is a bit noisy, not too worried bout that but can`t live with the clunks occasionally during acceleration and deceleration.....you lot as helpful as the S forum?
Recently sold my S and bought a 500 griff; love it already, despite the big service bill courtesy of nearby main dealers!! However, diff is a bit noisy, not too worried bout that but can`t live with the clunks occasionally during acceleration and deceleration.....you lot as helpful as the S forum?
Sure its the diff itself? Check diff bushes, and bolts around diff, propshaft UJ and particularly inboard + outboard driveshaft allen bolts. Since you have to lift the back end to check for play in diff, give it a good check over it seems quite a common area for 'working loose'.
It is possible to to remove diff yourself, the work varies depending on the diff. Think there is a bit more room with the later BTR diff (no fins), hardest must be the very early GKN with extra large cooling fins (very restricted space at rear). Main advantage of DIY is that you have opportunity to really clean up chassis top rails, service handbrake, change fuel filter.... whilst you get diff reconned (Bernie at CTS is the man).
HTH, Dave
It is possible to to remove diff yourself, the work varies depending on the diff. Think there is a bit more room with the later BTR diff (no fins), hardest must be the very early GKN with extra large cooling fins (very restricted space at rear). Main advantage of DIY is that you have opportunity to really clean up chassis top rails, service handbrake, change fuel filter.... whilst you get diff reconned (Bernie at CTS is the man).
HTH, Dave
Interesting point about the mountings, I was looking closely at my Diff yesterday with a view to removing it and found the top bolts at the rear just finger tight. In fact one has gone missing ( anybody know what thread it is ?). Actually removing the part doesn’t look too bad. Exhaust off, undo the drive shaft couplings and Prop shaft. Four bots at the front and four at the rear. I guess it may be hard to wrestle to the ground if working on axle stands.
I am 90 % convinced the noise is from the Diff but it is not the clunking on take up that is often described, it is a whine / dry bearing sound which becomes a lot louder at speed and becomes worse when hot. Yes there is plenty of oil in the Diff, and no apparent play in the wheel bearings or drive shafts. Any comments anybody ?
I am 90 % convinced the noise is from the Diff but it is not the clunking on take up that is often described, it is a whine / dry bearing sound which becomes a lot louder at speed and becomes worse when hot. Yes there is plenty of oil in the Diff, and no apparent play in the wheel bearings or drive shafts. Any comments anybody ?
Its pretty straightforward, but note that when removing the diff it doesnt drop straight out of the chassis! Push forward , turn on side, ease back down, draw out.... Sounds easy - but its a pig to handle & manipulate (too early to spell manuver :-) Just make sure the car is plenty high enough, may take you best part of a day, half if your good/lucky.
Dave
Dave
Know I`m asking much but anyone got piccies? Ta, btw!!
Oh, and it`s GKN I believe...just wanna sort those knocking sounds, not too worried bout the whine right now, major service at main dealers made large hole in bank balance....plus girlie friend wants new kitchen. Ahh to be single!!
Oh, and it`s GKN I believe...just wanna sort those knocking sounds, not too worried bout the whine right now, major service at main dealers made large hole in bank balance....plus girlie friend wants new kitchen. Ahh to be single!!steve-v8s said:
I am 90 % convinced the noise is from the Diff but it is not the clunking on take up that is often described, it is a whine / dry bearing sound which becomes a lot louder at speed and becomes worse when hot.
Yup this sounds like it could be the diff - when it's making the noise, do you find it understeers more on corners? There's a chance that the limited slip diff can become more "limited slip" & the car will push on more (till it snap oversteers)
If you need a new one from the factory, I believe it will now set you back over £2500, as the new GKN diffs they supply aren't a straight replacement, and need lots of ancillaries to be replaced too (joints & shafts I think, but could be wrong here)
I believe we are now on the 3rd major rev of GKN diff for Griffs/Chims (with various minor changes like speedo drive changes etc)
If you could find a straight replacement new diff in stock somewhere, then it should cost you just under £1600 inc VAT
A recon one is likely to be around £750 - £1000
>> Edited by CraigAlsop on Monday 14th March 23:41
Sam Gamgee said:
Know I`m asking much but anyone got piccies? Ta, btw!!
quote from an expert..not me btw, the way the GKN diff engages, can lead to a knocking / clonking from the diff, to be fair mine has klonked for the last 3 years. the thing to look for is iron filings in the oil when it's being serviced. the weak spot of the diff are the outer bearings, as they are presealed and not lubricated by the diff oil.
Hello steve. i don't want to sound like I am telling you to suck eggs, but have you discounted the wheelbearings at the rear. The whining you describe could be that. you would not necesarily notice play in a rear bearing on a driven hub?
have a drive with a passenger in the back and check both sides and the middle of the car?
Neil.
have a drive with a passenger in the back and check both sides and the middle of the car?
Neil.
heightswitch said:
Hello steve. i don't want to sound like I am telling you to suck eggs, but have you discounted the wheelbearings at the rear. The whining you describe could be that. you would not necesarily notice play in a rear bearing on a driven hub?
have a drive with a passenger in the back and check both sides and the middle of the car?
Neil.
good call, when a rear bearing went on mine, it sounded like a u/s cv joint. The noise of a diff going is compared to a whooshing sound i'm told. for me, mine sounded like metal on metal brake pads/discs.
Yes I have a nagging feeling that it could be a wheel bearing but can detect no play at all and they don’t appear to get hot. Previously when I have had a UJ fail the noise has been quite different. The noise does appear to be central at the back. One possible clue is that the dif has a slight leak, although I have always kept an eye on the oil, I guess the previous owner may have let it run dry.
Anyway, yesterday I bought an (allegedly) low mileage spare Diff from a breakers, so we will see.
Anyway, yesterday I bought an (allegedly) low mileage spare Diff from a breakers, so we will see.
k77-widow maker said:
quote from an expert..not me btw, the way the GKN diff engages, can lead to a knocking / clonking from the diff, to be fair mine has klonked for the last 3 years. the thing to look for is iron filings in the oil when it's being serviced. the weak spot of the diff are the outer bearings, as they are presealed and not lubricated by the diff oil.
Ta, K77......feel a little relieved. Was told diff was noisy by dealer and did point out knocking sound to them (nowt mentioned upon return.) They then proceeded to tell me it would be good idea to have new hydratrak fitted!! Would have pursued the knocking further with them but they had alraedy had car for 5 weeks. Prior to this I had only driven it for about 4 hrs.....
I had a VERY reputable dealer tell me I needed a new diff as it was noisey/worn etc, I left it as it didn't sound like a worn diff to me plus they estimated the repair to cost 1.5 - 2k!!
I took it to an independant to have a look at, the next day two new diff bushes had been fitted and a broken diff mounting plate had be fixed for a fraction of the cost. 35k later all is still well.
The above caused the following symptoms, clonking when going from forward to reverse or on/off throttle and whining.
edited to say it's a 4ltr with GKN.
>> Edited by dougal on Friday 18th March 12:08
I took it to an independant to have a look at, the next day two new diff bushes had been fitted and a broken diff mounting plate had be fixed for a fraction of the cost. 35k later all is still well.
The above caused the following symptoms, clonking when going from forward to reverse or on/off throttle and whining.
edited to say it's a 4ltr with GKN.
>> Edited by dougal on Friday 18th March 12:08
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