Has your classic been professionally rust proofed?
Has your classic been professionally rust proofed?
Author
Discussion

TR4man

Original Poster:

5,526 posts

203 months

Sunday 18th September 2016
quotequote all
Rustproofing any classic is a horrible, smelly and complicated job.

But very necessary and oh so rewarding.

I have over the years done my own cars myself and take pride that they have been done properly. However, I'm quite tempted by letting the professionals do it on my new classic and have been quoted £360 using Dintrol which is quite appealing.

Has anyone got any recommendations or experience of having this done?




Ex Boy Racer

1,167 posts

221 months

Sunday 18th September 2016
quotequote all
I had my TR6 done a few months ago with Waxoyl. Full underneath coverage with the thick stuff (any loose paint scraped off too) and internal cavities done with the thin stuff. The guy reckoned once every 5 years is more than enough to keep rust at bay.

It looked pretty comprehensive and cost about £400 from memory.

Got to be worth doing if only for peace of mind

SidewaysSi

10,742 posts

263 months

Sunday 18th September 2016
quotequote all
I am looking for someone to do this - full cavity protection, ideally with Bilt Hamber products. I assume that once done you are free to drive through winter?

200Plus Club

13,451 posts

307 months

Monday 19th September 2016
quotequote all
Bilt Hamber for me everytime. I don't like the black waxoyl type products everywhere. Inside chassis sections maybe but BH do a fabulous clear wax that coats nicely. Supposedly better in tests also if you research than some "competitors products.
If you have access to ramps you can do it yourself as the cans come with a spray Lance attachment.
Wear paper overalls and a hat however as it's very sticky!

finishing touch

818 posts

196 months

Monday 19th September 2016
quotequote all
One problem with squirting goo up every crack and crevice is that it makes it very difficult should the car need welding repairs in the future.

Remove the "w", "a" & "x" from Waxoil and you have a better product. IMHO


Paul G

anonymous-user

83 months

Monday 19th September 2016
quotequote all
SidewaysSi said:
I am looking for someone to do this - full cavity protection, ideally with Bilt Hamber products. I assume that once done you are free to drive through winter?
Better not to be in the safe side.

Brum_Brum

550 posts

252 months

Monday 19th September 2016
quotequote all
I Know someone thats recently had his 911 done by 'Krown' rustproofing (I had never heard of them,. but supposedly they did an excellent thorough job)


snotrag

15,624 posts

240 months

Monday 19th September 2016
quotequote all
I have done my own cars a few times. The one thing I wonder is -

In order to be putting in the same kind of effort and hours I did - a Pro would have to be charging more than £3 or £400.

Thus - I always wonder how well they actually do it?

Its a messy job, but not technically very challenging, just requiring lots of time. Aren't those the exact kind of jobs that are ideal for DIY?

mgv8

1,657 posts

300 months

Monday 19th September 2016
quotequote all
Mine was done £250+ vat It was a good job and happy with most of it.

200Plus Club

13,451 posts

307 months

Monday 19th September 2016
quotequote all
On ramps it was ok diy. Apart from my eyelids sticking together after a few hours lol

uk66fastback

18,334 posts

300 months

Tuesday 20th September 2016
quotequote all
Surely this is what owning a classic is all about? ie DIY.

cptsideways

13,880 posts

281 months

Tuesday 20th September 2016
quotequote all
Just done one of mine, messy horrible job but once you've been dripped on a few times who cares just get stuck in.

I am soon to my 25 year old Landcruiser find that is so like a new car underneath , wish to keep it that way so another couple of tubs it is.

Riley Blue

23,205 posts

255 months

Tuesday 20th September 2016
quotequote all
How can you be sure your car's cavities are free of rust before you inject rust proofing? Here's a photo of a sill on a Riley 1.5 currently being restored. The shell has never been on the road, it was bought new when they were still available to reshell a car that had rusted out within 20 years of manufacture. The piece that has been cut out has pin prick holes in it that you can see light through yet is otherwise 'sound'. Both sills had been filled with expanding foam by a previous owner in an attempt to keep moisture out - as you can see, it didn't work!


Faust66

2,407 posts

194 months

Tuesday 20th September 2016
quotequote all
Always do my own rustproofing… I have considered getting a 'professional' job done in the past, but how much can you really trust someone else to do such a vital task?

If you've got a friendly local garage, it's worth asking if you can use one of their ramps at a weekend (or whenever they are quiet). Makes the job much easier and you can really see what you are doing. Be prepared to make a contribution towards the mechanic's beer fund though.

Failing that, it's axle stand and squirming around on your back time.

I use Bilt Hamber UB and Dynax S50 on my cars - great stuff.

I have a strange love/hate relationship with rustproofing: it's a filthy horrible job (especially when you have long hair!) but at the same time the knowledge that you've looked after your car and can now actually drive the thing in all weathers gives a strangely contented feeling.

That might be the fumes from the products you've just used though… hippy

tonymor

1,546 posts

201 months

Thursday 22nd September 2016
quotequote all
A family friend re welded sills on my sons mx5 and then pre cleaned and treated the complete underside etc with waxoyl . He recommends it and as he's got vast experience we are happy with it but it's always good to read these blog/ articles for any other people's comments and experiences.

200Plus Club

13,451 posts

307 months

Thursday 22nd September 2016
quotequote all
tonymor said:
A family friend re welded sills on my sons mx5 and then pre cleaned and treated the complete underside etc with waxoyl . He recommends it and as he's got vast experience we are happy with it but it's always good to read these blog/ articles for any other people's comments and experiences.
i once saw an article with tests on waxoyl and the BH gear and there was a clear winner in the saltwater testing they did. not to say waxoyl is no good, but there are modern alternatives. my 993 is covered in a fair old thickness of waxoyl from the previous owner, it appears fine from what i can see but the black goo can hide stuff.

Brum_Brum

550 posts

252 months

Thursday 22nd September 2016
quotequote all
Re : Internal cavities,. before I went in with the Dinitrol I used this stuff they also knock out,.

http://www.rejel.com/dinitrol-rc900-rust-converter...


Hoping its good stuff,...spin christ it stinks though!