Did I mess up my brakes?
Discussion
ukbabz said:
Make sure you clean the discs too..
I made a royal hash recently of bleeding my brakes and got fluid all over (some on the disc too) and it trashed the pads.. when I cleaned up the disc and put new pads on it took a few miles to stop squeeking.
So, to sum it up, pads are trashed? ~GT85 was only applied to disks and bike was not used for 24h afterwards. What would you suggest that i use after washing the bike after the ride? Do I need separate spray for the exposed part of shock stems? I made a royal hash recently of bleeding my brakes and got fluid all over (some on the disc too) and it trashed the pads.. when I cleaned up the disc and put new pads on it took a few miles to stop squeeking.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-acera-a...
This is the first link that comes when I google m355 pads. Are resin pads ok?
Thanks again.
Is this a wind up?
You sprayed a waterproof Teflon based lubricant onto your brake discs and pads?
If so then take the pads out and immerse them in brake cleaner (Halfords) and spray brake cleaner all over the discs, making sure not to get it onto anything else, particularly if it's painted. Don't drink it either.
Don't ride it until you've done that.
You sprayed a waterproof Teflon based lubricant onto your brake discs and pads?
If so then take the pads out and immerse them in brake cleaner (Halfords) and spray brake cleaner all over the discs, making sure not to get it onto anything else, particularly if it's painted. Don't drink it either.
Don't ride it until you've done that.
MiseryStreak said:
Is this a wind up?
You sprayed a waterproof Teflon based lubricant onto your brake discs and pads?
If so then take the pads out and immerse them in brake cleaner (Halfords) and spray brake cleaner all over the discs, making sure not to get it onto anything else, particularly if it's painted. Don't drink it either.
Don't ride it until you've done that.
I wish it was, You sprayed a waterproof Teflon based lubricant onto your brake discs and pads?
If so then take the pads out and immerse them in brake cleaner (Halfords) and spray brake cleaner all over the discs, making sure not to get it onto anything else, particularly if it's painted. Don't drink it either.
Don't ride it until you've done that.
I've read water displacement part and presumed (obviously wrongly) that it will evaporate after 24h. Wasn't spraying on pads. I'll just buy new pads as not sure that i can clean existing ones. I'll get brake (disk?) cleaner for the disks. I guess 85 is ok for front and rear mech? Same for exposed part of shocks stays?
You mustn't spray anything near your rotors. Clean them with brake cleaner.
And just buy some new pads to save your infected pads reinfecting your rotors.
Also make sure you use a lube after GT85 as it will not lubricate only displace water.
Some people swear by just using GT85 but lubing will make your bits last longer, it's up to you.
And just buy some new pads to save your infected pads reinfecting your rotors.
Also make sure you use a lube after GT85 as it will not lubricate only displace water.
Some people swear by just using GT85 but lubing will make your bits last longer, it's up to you.
GT85 is great stuff, when used with extreme caution near braking surfaces. 
I doubt you'll be able to rescue the pads, the fine mist travels and will almost certainly manage to get itself over your discs and pads if not well covered.
I rate this stuff for cleaning my discs - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muc-Off-613-Muc-Off-Clean...
I doubt you'll be able to rescue the pads, the fine mist travels and will almost certainly manage to get itself over your discs and pads if not well covered.
I rate this stuff for cleaning my discs - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muc-Off-613-Muc-Off-Clean...
The_Jackal said:
You mustn't spray anything near your rotors. Clean them with brake cleaner.
And just buy some new pads to save your infected pads reinfecting your rotors.
Also make sure you use a lube after GT85 as it will not lubricate only displace water.
Some people swear by just using GT85 but lubing will make your bits last longer, it's up to you.
As I'm, obviously, new to all this, any suggestions for what to use for which part;And just buy some new pads to save your infected pads reinfecting your rotors.
Also make sure you use a lube after GT85 as it will not lubricate only displace water.
Some people swear by just using GT85 but lubing will make your bits last longer, it's up to you.
- frame : (just dry cloth after wash?)
- front/rear mech : ?
- disks ( http://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-disc-brake-cleaner... ) ?
- top part of shocks ( recon air 100mm) ?
Thanks.
CoinSl0t said:
GT85 is great stuff, when used with extreme caution near braking surfaces.
I doubt you'll be able to rescue the pads, the fine mist travels and will almost certainly manage to get itself over your discs and pads if not well covered.
I rate this stuff for cleaning my discs - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muc-Off-613-Muc-Off-Clean...
Not even going to try to rescue pads. I'm happy that i didn't mess up disks which i'll clean with brake cleaner and IPA. I doubt you'll be able to rescue the pads, the fine mist travels and will almost certainly manage to get itself over your discs and pads if not well covered.
I rate this stuff for cleaning my discs - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muc-Off-613-Muc-Off-Clean...
Are resin brakes ok? (not doing anything extreme, just exercise rides really).
Edited by jjlynn27 on Thursday 22 September 17:47
BaronVonVaderham said:
Shimano b01s resin pads are the ones you need. To reset the pistons back in their bores, a 10mm spanner is very helpful to use as a lever.
Just got those, they were much cheaper than expected. Got some dry lube for chain and according to the shop guys gt85 is fine for front/rear mech. They confirmed that best thing to clean disk with is IPA. This messing thing with bike is fun.
ETA
Looking at the package it says M05. not b01s. Did they sell me the wrong pads?
Edited by jjlynn27 on Thursday 22 September 20:36
Edited by jjlynn27 on Thursday 22 September 20:36
They should be the same, just minus new split pins.
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev...
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev...
BaronVonVaderham said:
They should be the same, just minus new split pins.
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev...
Thanks.http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev...
That's what the guys from LBS said too. As for new pads, I was advised to take it really hard on the brakes to burn off any residual (after cleaning with IPA) from the disks. That makes sense?
jjlynn27 said:
As I'm, obviously, new to all this, any suggestions for what to use for which part;
- frame : (just dry cloth after wash?)
- front/rear mech : ?
- disks ( http://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-disc-brake-cleaner... ) ?
- top part of shocks ( recon air 100mm) ?
Thanks.
Cleaning:- frame : (just dry cloth after wash?)
- front/rear mech : ?
- disks ( http://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-disc-brake-cleaner... ) ?
- top part of shocks ( recon air 100mm) ?
Thanks.
Frame - wash with a bucket of water with muc-off in it. Rinse with plain water. Bounce bike a few times to shake off water and wipe down with cloth.
Chain - buy a chain cleaning device (you'll never look back). Fill the device with the proper fluid or when it runs out, just neat muc-off. Backpedal the bike so the chain has done at least 30 passes through the device, and it should have foamed up nicely. It will also have help cleaning the jockey wheels at the same time. Spray more muc-off onto front rings/rear cassette/etc and use an old toothbrush to work off grime/old oil. Once all done, rinse the whole lot in clean water, bounce bike to shake the worst of it off.
Forks (washing) - just muc-off as above
Discs (washing) - just muc-off as above
Lubing:
Chain: You could use GT85 or similar as a water displacement, but its risky re: brakes. I just get the majority of water off by shaking the bike and using kitchen roll, then leaving for an hour or so before lubing. Obviously theres a narrow window of time between the chain drying and starting to rust, so your call. Anyway, take your lube of choice and put a drop on each chainlink individually - best to start at your quicklink (if you have one) so you know when youre done. Dont just slather gallons of the stuff all over the chain and cassette, its unnecessary and will just pick up dirt and get gummed up. I personally like muc-off dry lube for all-year riding unless im expecting an absolute mudbath.
Forks: drape a clean rag over your front brakes, and spray some GT85 around the lower part of the stanchions - press down a few times and it will bring up any residual grime around by the seal. Clean with a cloth and repeat until no more grime. Carefully spray entire travel of stanchions with GT85, rub in with a cloth, and remove all excess fluid. That should do. best advice is get an "enduro guard" or make one yourself - it really reduces the amount of muck that gets to your forks http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/diy-mudguard-p...
Discs: if you have a windproof lighter/chefs browtorch you could run it over the discs a few times to burn off any residual lube that you got on there. Take the wheels off the bike, natch.
I use Fenwicks and put it in a spray bottle with 75% water, just spray it all over and leave it for an hour, then wash the bike with a bucket of warm water and sponge/brush. I don't use a hose at all.
After it's dry, I do use GT-85 but locally on derailleurs, cables and bolts (as a rust preventative), just hold a rag behind them when you spray them and none gets on the wheels. Don't spray it onto hubs as it penetrates the seals and dissolves the grease inside, then it's game over for the bearings and a new hub with refitting can cost more than a new wheel.
Fork stanchions should not be lubed, especially not with a solvent type lubricant like WD-40 or GT-85, because again it can get past the seals and dissolve the grease inside.
After cleaning the chain as above, make sure the chain cleaner is thoroughly rinsed off and it's bone dry, then just a drop of lube onto the top of each roller, this is all the drivetrain needs in terms of lubricant, Anything else will just be a s
t magnet and hold onto grit which will massively shorten the life of the chainrings and cassette.
I'm not a bike mechanic and have learned everything the hard way. I used to use a pressure washer on my bikes. Sigh.
After it's dry, I do use GT-85 but locally on derailleurs, cables and bolts (as a rust preventative), just hold a rag behind them when you spray them and none gets on the wheels. Don't spray it onto hubs as it penetrates the seals and dissolves the grease inside, then it's game over for the bearings and a new hub with refitting can cost more than a new wheel.
Fork stanchions should not be lubed, especially not with a solvent type lubricant like WD-40 or GT-85, because again it can get past the seals and dissolve the grease inside.
After cleaning the chain as above, make sure the chain cleaner is thoroughly rinsed off and it's bone dry, then just a drop of lube onto the top of each roller, this is all the drivetrain needs in terms of lubricant, Anything else will just be a s
t magnet and hold onto grit which will massively shorten the life of the chainrings and cassette.I'm not a bike mechanic and have learned everything the hard way. I used to use a pressure washer on my bikes. Sigh.
daddy cool said:
Cleaning:
Frame - wash with a bucket of water with muc-off in it. Rinse with plain water. Bounce bike a few times to shake off water and wipe down with cloth.
Chain - buy a chain cleaning device (you'll never look back). Fill the device with the proper fluid or when it runs out, just neat muc-off. Backpedal the bike so the chain has done at least 30 passes through the device, and it should have foamed up nicely. It will also have help cleaning the jockey wheels at the same time. Spray more muc-off onto front rings/rear cassette/etc and use an old toothbrush to work off grime/old oil. Once all done, rinse the whole lot in clean water, bounce bike to shake the worst of it off.
Forks (washing) - just muc-off as above
Discs (washing) - just muc-off as above
Lubing:
Chain: You could use GT85 or similar as a water displacement, but its risky re: brakes. I just get the majority of water off by shaking the bike and using kitchen roll, then leaving for an hour or so before lubing. Obviously theres a narrow window of time between the chain drying and starting to rust, so your call. Anyway, take your lube of choice and put a drop on each chainlink individually - best to start at your quicklink (if you have one) so you know when youre done. Dont just slather gallons of the stuff all over the chain and cassette, its unnecessary and will just pick up dirt and get gummed up. I personally like muc-off dry lube for all-year riding unless im expecting an absolute mudbath.
Forks: drape a clean rag over your front brakes, and spray some GT85 around the lower part of the stanchions - press down a few times and it will bring up any residual grime around by the seal. Clean with a cloth and repeat until no more grime. Carefully spray entire travel of stanchions with GT85, rub in with a cloth, and remove all excess fluid. That should do. best advice is get an "enduro guard" or make one yourself - it really reduces the amount of muck that gets to your forks http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/diy-mudguard-p...
Discs: if you have a windproof lighter/chefs browtorch you could run it over the discs a few times to burn off any residual lube that you got on there. Take the wheels off the bike, natch.
Thanks. Bookmarked. I've now changed the pads (it was ridiculously easy) and used just over 1l of break cleaner to clean the disks so they should be fine. I'd be too chicken to go with blowtorch (even chefs one) anywhere near bike.Frame - wash with a bucket of water with muc-off in it. Rinse with plain water. Bounce bike a few times to shake off water and wipe down with cloth.
Chain - buy a chain cleaning device (you'll never look back). Fill the device with the proper fluid or when it runs out, just neat muc-off. Backpedal the bike so the chain has done at least 30 passes through the device, and it should have foamed up nicely. It will also have help cleaning the jockey wheels at the same time. Spray more muc-off onto front rings/rear cassette/etc and use an old toothbrush to work off grime/old oil. Once all done, rinse the whole lot in clean water, bounce bike to shake the worst of it off.
Forks (washing) - just muc-off as above
Discs (washing) - just muc-off as above
Lubing:
Chain: You could use GT85 or similar as a water displacement, but its risky re: brakes. I just get the majority of water off by shaking the bike and using kitchen roll, then leaving for an hour or so before lubing. Obviously theres a narrow window of time between the chain drying and starting to rust, so your call. Anyway, take your lube of choice and put a drop on each chainlink individually - best to start at your quicklink (if you have one) so you know when youre done. Dont just slather gallons of the stuff all over the chain and cassette, its unnecessary and will just pick up dirt and get gummed up. I personally like muc-off dry lube for all-year riding unless im expecting an absolute mudbath.
Forks: drape a clean rag over your front brakes, and spray some GT85 around the lower part of the stanchions - press down a few times and it will bring up any residual grime around by the seal. Clean with a cloth and repeat until no more grime. Carefully spray entire travel of stanchions with GT85, rub in with a cloth, and remove all excess fluid. That should do. best advice is get an "enduro guard" or make one yourself - it really reduces the amount of muck that gets to your forks http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/diy-mudguard-p...
Discs: if you have a windproof lighter/chefs browtorch you could run it over the discs a few times to burn off any residual lube that you got on there. Take the wheels off the bike, natch.
MiseryStreak said:
I use Fenwicks and put it in a spray bottle with 75% water, just spray it all over and leave it for an hour, then wash the bike with a bucket of warm water and sponge/brush. I don't use a hose at all.
After it's dry, I do use GT-85 but locally on derailleurs, cables and bolts (as a rust preventative), just hold a rag behind them when you spray them and none gets on the wheels. Don't spray it onto hubs as it penetrates the seals and dissolves the grease inside, then it's game over for the bearings and a new hub with refitting can cost more than a new wheel.
Fork stanchions should not be lubed, especially not with a solvent type lubricant like WD-40 or GT-85, because again it can get past the seals and dissolve the grease inside.
After cleaning the chain as above, make sure the chain cleaner is thoroughly rinsed off and it's bone dry, then just a drop of lube onto the top of each roller, this is all the drivetrain needs in terms of lubricant, Anything else will just be a st magnet and hold onto grit which will massively shorten the life of the chainrings and cassette.
I'm not a bike mechanic and have learned everything the hard way. I used to use a pressure washer on my bikes. Sigh.
LOL. Thanks for the tips. I was actually going to use pressure washer on the frame / tyres but I'll do bucket instead. After it's dry, I do use GT-85 but locally on derailleurs, cables and bolts (as a rust preventative), just hold a rag behind them when you spray them and none gets on the wheels. Don't spray it onto hubs as it penetrates the seals and dissolves the grease inside, then it's game over for the bearings and a new hub with refitting can cost more than a new wheel.
Fork stanchions should not be lubed, especially not with a solvent type lubricant like WD-40 or GT-85, because again it can get past the seals and dissolve the grease inside.
After cleaning the chain as above, make sure the chain cleaner is thoroughly rinsed off and it's bone dry, then just a drop of lube onto the top of each roller, this is all the drivetrain needs in terms of lubricant, Anything else will just be a s
t magnet and hold onto grit which will massively shorten the life of the chainrings and cassette.I'm not a bike mechanic and have learned everything the hard way. I used to use a pressure washer on my bikes. Sigh.
If you're going to use an aerosol on your bike, spray it on a rag away from the bike and wipe it on the frame.
There are specific products for lubing fork stanchions. I bought some a while back (it was a "must support the bike shop by buying something while I'm passing" moment). I wouldn't bother if I were you.
There are specific products for lubing fork stanchions. I bought some a while back (it was a "must support the bike shop by buying something while I'm passing" moment). I wouldn't bother if I were you.
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