Engine removal '98 4.2
Discussion
Seeking first hand tips and advice for the best way to do this, from people that actually have.
Eg: With/without gearbox? How much clearance needed below car if removing in unit with 'box?
Where to sling from/balance point?
Exhaust manifolds/fuel rails on/off?
What else needs to be removed or just moved eg can AC Compressor remain gassed?
etc etc
All helpful suggestions gratefully received in order to attempt a painless extraction!
Thanks.
Rik
Eg: With/without gearbox? How much clearance needed below car if removing in unit with 'box?
Where to sling from/balance point?
Exhaust manifolds/fuel rails on/off?
What else needs to be removed or just moved eg can AC Compressor remain gassed?
etc etc
All helpful suggestions gratefully received in order to attempt a painless extraction!
Thanks.
Rik
An extract from my own personal notes, I am no mechanic users beware!!! Some of this may not apply to yours of course but may come in handy. Good luck!!
1. Remove top panel, note how wiper washer tubing fits through panel (Pic 1). Underneath the panel the two top corners are bodged with silicone(Pic 2)? Apparently the panel should have 3 lugs/ears that tuck in to the body of the car and only secured by the two lower bolts. Question raised on pistonheads for pictures, if tray is used some fabrication required.
2. Remove the air intake assembly up to throttle bodies. Pic 3 shows the assembly, the two pipes are different lengths, longer pipe is n/s. Picture 4 shows the electrical connection on n/s. Pic 5 shows the push in tube on rear of n/s air box, this needs to be glued/epoxied in. Pic 6 shows the connector for the small pipe going into the bottom of the o/s air box. Pic 8 shows where the large and small pipes fit under the o/s air box. Pic 12 shows breather pipe to engine and o/s air box.
3. Picture 7 shows where the home made cabling goes down the n/s inner wing, this is cable tied to the bottom of the sill.
4. To remove the front lower panel, remove the top hose off the radiator. The lower panel bolt well nut come out on the n/s and needs bonding
5. Pic 9 shows the position of the washer bottle bracket. The neck of the filler hose fits through the lower panel into the bottle.
6. Pic 10 shows the position of stainless coolant pipe aka o/s ss pipe
7. Pic 11 shows location of stainless coolant pipe aka ss crossmember pipe.
8. Remove top rad hose from thermostat knuckle. Remove hose from n/s water rail and ss crossmember pipe. Remove hose from o/s ss pipe and thermostat knuckle. Remove pipe from thermostat knuckle to ss crossmember pipe. Remove hose from o/s water rail to ss cross member pipe – its too long at the water rail end and needs trimming.
9. Remove hose from O/s ss pipe to the n/s heater rail pipe that is furthest forward (Pic 13). Pic 14 shows the pipe going through side rail, under top cross member chassis rail (pic 15) over the top of the ss cross member pipe to the o/s ss pipe (Pic 16). I had to cut the pipe at the heater rail therefore it needs replacing. Its 26 inches long, 19mm id, 5 mm thick heater hose.
10. Pictures 17 to 21 detail the route of a cable shielded in heat protector and a metal water coiled pipe coming from the bulkhead along the o/s water rail around the front chassis with the cable disappearing into the n/s wing via the lower hose grommet and the coiled cable continuing around the chassis onto a sender in the ss cross member pipe. The coiled pipe is not inside the heat protector and both are cable tied along the way. This looks non OEM but not sure where they go to.
11. Disconnect rear hose from both water rails. Remove both rails from heads to access manifolds.
12. Remove sump guard NB two brackets for ARB.
13. Remove hose from bottom of block to o/s ss pipe and hose from rad bottom to os ss pipe. Remove o/s ss pipe.
14. The sender on ss cross member pipe (Pic 22) looks non OEM. Note red live, earth to cross member chassis point where clip usually fits, electrical connector and water coil pipe. All disconnected and labelled.
15. Remove hose from ss cross member pipe and lower heating rail pipe, this pipe is too long and needs trimming.
16. Diagram of cooling system Diag 1
17. Remove exhaust – two clamps where decat pipe meets manifold (there is a steel bar linking the two bolts through n/s and o/s pipes. NB there are two non OEM sensors in the decat pipes that disappear over the top of the engine into n/s bulkhead (Pic 24) Remove exhaust tray, remove two hanger nuts at rear end and remove the exhaust. All Bolts in Bag3.
18. Free up both manifolds, note there are 2 lambda sensor in the manifolds near the decat pipes. You cannot remove the manifolds at this stage until the engine is lifted slightly so leave in place for now. All bolts in Bag 3.
19. Remove power steering pipes, return and feed, from power steering pump at the bottom of the engine o/s (Pic 23) , union bolt in bag 4
20. Remove windscreen washer tubing from n/s wing, tied at bottom of inner wing
21. Pic 25 and 26 shows the layout and positioning of the heating pipe connection, vacuum and fuel cooler pipe lay out. It also shows the cable ties of the fuel return pipe.
22. Undo the Fuel feed from the fuel rail (Pic 28) and disconnect the fuel return (Pic 27)
23. Disconnect the heater hose at the connector (Pic 25) and remove pipes.
24. Remove pipe from fuel cooler (non OEM) Pic 29 and pull under the fuel rail in its heat protector sleeve. Had to cut pipe as its hardened.
25. Remove the vacuum pipework from the fuel rails (Pic 30) and pull the vac pipe to the o/s air box from under the fuel rail and tuck it out of the way.
26. Drain gearbox oil
27. Remove propshaft shield and remove propshaft.
28. Disconnect earth to gearbox mount
29. Remove gear stick from the selector
30. Drain engine oil and remove fill and return pipes (the return line bolts to front of o/s engine mount. Remove filter assembly and bracket from n/s chassis.
31. Remove the loom from the engine, note crank sensor is o/s lower engine in the bell housing and cable is a very tight fit by an oil pipe of some description. Furthermore oil temp cable goes through the top of the bell housing through the removable bracket on to the sender under the coil pack.
32. Remove Oil Pressure braided hose from top of o/s inner wing.
33. Remove clutch feed from n/s footwell (this sits behind a non oem chassis protector attached with 4 cable ties.
34. Remove gearbox mounts and mounting bracket note earth fits on mounting bracket.
35. Remove the bonnet – Driver side had 2 spacing nuts between fixing and rose joint. Near side had 1 spacing nut (replace the lot).
36. Remove earth to block on n/s half way between sump and heads.
37. Support the engine weight and remove both engine mounts All nuts put back on engine. Brackets for engine mounts in Bag 4.
38. Remove crank pulley
39. Lift engine and remove both manifolds
40. Disconnect live to starter motor as the engine comes forward on hoist.
41. Engine and gearbox out!!!
If you need the Pics email me!
Ian
1. Remove top panel, note how wiper washer tubing fits through panel (Pic 1). Underneath the panel the two top corners are bodged with silicone(Pic 2)? Apparently the panel should have 3 lugs/ears that tuck in to the body of the car and only secured by the two lower bolts. Question raised on pistonheads for pictures, if tray is used some fabrication required.
2. Remove the air intake assembly up to throttle bodies. Pic 3 shows the assembly, the two pipes are different lengths, longer pipe is n/s. Picture 4 shows the electrical connection on n/s. Pic 5 shows the push in tube on rear of n/s air box, this needs to be glued/epoxied in. Pic 6 shows the connector for the small pipe going into the bottom of the o/s air box. Pic 8 shows where the large and small pipes fit under the o/s air box. Pic 12 shows breather pipe to engine and o/s air box.
3. Picture 7 shows where the home made cabling goes down the n/s inner wing, this is cable tied to the bottom of the sill.
4. To remove the front lower panel, remove the top hose off the radiator. The lower panel bolt well nut come out on the n/s and needs bonding
5. Pic 9 shows the position of the washer bottle bracket. The neck of the filler hose fits through the lower panel into the bottle.
6. Pic 10 shows the position of stainless coolant pipe aka o/s ss pipe
7. Pic 11 shows location of stainless coolant pipe aka ss crossmember pipe.
8. Remove top rad hose from thermostat knuckle. Remove hose from n/s water rail and ss crossmember pipe. Remove hose from o/s ss pipe and thermostat knuckle. Remove pipe from thermostat knuckle to ss crossmember pipe. Remove hose from o/s water rail to ss cross member pipe – its too long at the water rail end and needs trimming.
9. Remove hose from O/s ss pipe to the n/s heater rail pipe that is furthest forward (Pic 13). Pic 14 shows the pipe going through side rail, under top cross member chassis rail (pic 15) over the top of the ss cross member pipe to the o/s ss pipe (Pic 16). I had to cut the pipe at the heater rail therefore it needs replacing. Its 26 inches long, 19mm id, 5 mm thick heater hose.
10. Pictures 17 to 21 detail the route of a cable shielded in heat protector and a metal water coiled pipe coming from the bulkhead along the o/s water rail around the front chassis with the cable disappearing into the n/s wing via the lower hose grommet and the coiled cable continuing around the chassis onto a sender in the ss cross member pipe. The coiled pipe is not inside the heat protector and both are cable tied along the way. This looks non OEM but not sure where they go to.
11. Disconnect rear hose from both water rails. Remove both rails from heads to access manifolds.
12. Remove sump guard NB two brackets for ARB.
13. Remove hose from bottom of block to o/s ss pipe and hose from rad bottom to os ss pipe. Remove o/s ss pipe.
14. The sender on ss cross member pipe (Pic 22) looks non OEM. Note red live, earth to cross member chassis point where clip usually fits, electrical connector and water coil pipe. All disconnected and labelled.
15. Remove hose from ss cross member pipe and lower heating rail pipe, this pipe is too long and needs trimming.
16. Diagram of cooling system Diag 1
17. Remove exhaust – two clamps where decat pipe meets manifold (there is a steel bar linking the two bolts through n/s and o/s pipes. NB there are two non OEM sensors in the decat pipes that disappear over the top of the engine into n/s bulkhead (Pic 24) Remove exhaust tray, remove two hanger nuts at rear end and remove the exhaust. All Bolts in Bag3.
18. Free up both manifolds, note there are 2 lambda sensor in the manifolds near the decat pipes. You cannot remove the manifolds at this stage until the engine is lifted slightly so leave in place for now. All bolts in Bag 3.
19. Remove power steering pipes, return and feed, from power steering pump at the bottom of the engine o/s (Pic 23) , union bolt in bag 4
20. Remove windscreen washer tubing from n/s wing, tied at bottom of inner wing
21. Pic 25 and 26 shows the layout and positioning of the heating pipe connection, vacuum and fuel cooler pipe lay out. It also shows the cable ties of the fuel return pipe.
22. Undo the Fuel feed from the fuel rail (Pic 28) and disconnect the fuel return (Pic 27)
23. Disconnect the heater hose at the connector (Pic 25) and remove pipes.
24. Remove pipe from fuel cooler (non OEM) Pic 29 and pull under the fuel rail in its heat protector sleeve. Had to cut pipe as its hardened.
25. Remove the vacuum pipework from the fuel rails (Pic 30) and pull the vac pipe to the o/s air box from under the fuel rail and tuck it out of the way.
26. Drain gearbox oil
27. Remove propshaft shield and remove propshaft.
28. Disconnect earth to gearbox mount
29. Remove gear stick from the selector
30. Drain engine oil and remove fill and return pipes (the return line bolts to front of o/s engine mount. Remove filter assembly and bracket from n/s chassis.
31. Remove the loom from the engine, note crank sensor is o/s lower engine in the bell housing and cable is a very tight fit by an oil pipe of some description. Furthermore oil temp cable goes through the top of the bell housing through the removable bracket on to the sender under the coil pack.
32. Remove Oil Pressure braided hose from top of o/s inner wing.
33. Remove clutch feed from n/s footwell (this sits behind a non oem chassis protector attached with 4 cable ties.
34. Remove gearbox mounts and mounting bracket note earth fits on mounting bracket.
35. Remove the bonnet – Driver side had 2 spacing nuts between fixing and rose joint. Near side had 1 spacing nut (replace the lot).
36. Remove earth to block on n/s half way between sump and heads.
37. Support the engine weight and remove both engine mounts All nuts put back on engine. Brackets for engine mounts in Bag 4.
38. Remove crank pulley
39. Lift engine and remove both manifolds
40. Disconnect live to starter motor as the engine comes forward on hoist.
41. Engine and gearbox out!!!
If you need the Pics email me!
Ian
TwinKam said:
Seeking first hand tips and advice for the best way to do this, from people that actually have.
Eg: With/without gearbox? How much clearance needed below car if removing in unit with 'box?
Where to sling from/balance point?
Exhaust manifolds/fuel rails on/off?
What else needs to be removed or just moved eg can AC Compressor remain gassed?
etc etc
All helpful suggestions gratefully received in order to attempt a painless extraction!
Thanks.
Rik
I lifted engine and gearbox as one and only need sufficient access to crawl under it. I strapped the engine across basically all four corners but did use an adjustable balancer to get the right angles.Eg: With/without gearbox? How much clearance needed below car if removing in unit with 'box?
Where to sling from/balance point?
Exhaust manifolds/fuel rails on/off?
What else needs to be removed or just moved eg can AC Compressor remain gassed?
etc etc
All helpful suggestions gratefully received in order to attempt a painless extraction!
Thanks.
Rik
As said earlier good luck, happy to share pics if they help and more than happy to help over the phone if your stuck. However I push pens for a living and pull things apart for a hobby!!
Cheers
Ian
fuel rail and throttle boddies removed, sling through middle of headers. gearbox on, aircon compressor unbolted and dropped forward. I have always done these on 4post and 2 post ramps. guessing you need 1 1/2 foot to 2 foot clearance underneath for gearbox to drop down at angle when engine lifted.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff