Heater fan switch

[RMeier]

Just found mine now only works on slow speed. Don't know yet whether it's the switch that is faulty
Are they still available? Later 400se type. Thanks

[v8s4me]

If they are the same as the ones on my 280i they originate from TR7 so maybe try Rimmer's? You might be lucky although they are scarce. Are you sure it is the switch which is faulty? They are very old-school and more-or-less bullet proof. Easy enough to check with a battery and AVO or battery & bulb. You can also take them apart to clean .

[gmw9666]

Speak to @Adrian

Exactly TVR (call don't email)

It's the same switch as the the older tvrs and he'll sort you out I recon

[mrzigazaga]

First remove the switch and see if the contacts are green, You can see them from underneath...If so gently clean it with a piece of emery board...Or a piece of fine wet n dry and see if that fixes it...;)

[Wedg1e]

The heater switch isn't really man enough for the current of the fan motor on high speed, the plastic can melt. Mine's intermittent as a result. I modified the circuit with a relay but the damage was already done and high speed is a matter of twiddling the switch.

[SLB]

Definitely worth taking apart first and cleaning. I had one with corroded contacts and another with dirty burnt ones and after a good clean they were both good for years, atleast one is still going strong.

[jmorgan]

Mine had melted a tad leaving the slow option as the only worker.

[JumboBeef]

Mines the other way around, fast only. How do you get the switch out?

[SLB]

JumboBeef said:

How do you get the switch out?

Can't remember exactly but use a sharp knife to prise the fibre optic part off and then the switch arm. I think it all just snaps together so just be careful. Then watch where the bits go as there's some small springs and the contacts are balanced on something. It's not difficult or complex but just be gentle.

[v8s4me]

JumboBeef said:

.... How do you get the switch out?

There are little tags on the top and bottom of the switch body. You may be able to ping the switch out from the front but it is more than likely to be snagged by the fibre optic holder. The best way is to pull the panel forward, remove the connector, slide off the fibre optic holder and then ease down the tags while pushing the switch forward.

[Fellwalker]

http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/
Try this link they supply Lucas electrical parts i got a new lights switch from them but it did not have the fibre optic connection. The switch is identical though to the one i took out.

Edited by Fellwalker on Thursday 13th October 21:58

[adam quantrill]

I had the same thing but I couldn't face the hassle of removing the switch and fixing the broken contact, and the risk of cracking the veneer, so at the fan end I simply bridged between slow and fast wires.

So now I have off and fast (slow is only vaguely useful anyway).

Another job that can wait until I have that panel off... the clock stopped years ago!

[v8s4me]

It's not identical (although it does have the same numbers as mine) but this might do the job for you.

[mrzigazaga]

Its best to shop around for the switch ...
There are a few on the bay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR7-TR8-LIGHT-SW...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR7-TR8-LOTUS-EL...

[400SE Dave]

I've got a few of the 400se type switches, 1 x 2 position fan/headlight, 1 x electric window one and then I have 2 x 1 position switches (I guess foglight?)

With them I have 3 of the plastic optic holder bits.

If anyone wants to cover postage you can have them as I don't have a wedge anymore

[v8s4me]

Yes please, I'll PM you my details.

[400SE Dave]

v8s4me said:

Yes please, I'll PM you my details.

Message sent

[RMeier]

Thanks all. I will try and see if I can remove it and see what's up

[wedgewood]

My fan only works on the fast position. I replaced the switch but the fault was still there. I assumed that it was broken windings in the motor but now I see that resistance is created by some coiled up wire in the circuit somewhere! I would be grateful if someone would give me some idea where to look for this bundle of spaghetti so that I can check if it still has continuity.
Would it be practical to replace with a resistor of suitable value along with a relay to take the brunt of the current draw?