Recommendation for engine work
Recommendation for engine work
Author
Discussion

philadcock

Original Poster:

107 posts

283 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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Hi all,

I need some diagnosis and repair work done on my Cerbera and things have changed so much over the last few years that I'm after a recommendation.

Who is experienced with an AJP8? Would prefer someone on the dealer network but not essential.

Thanks,

Phil.

Mr Cerbera

5,148 posts

252 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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Andy at APM or
Joo at Classics

S6 Devil

3,556 posts

255 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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Andy at APM is your man!

CER927

193 posts

238 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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I'll third that, Andy will look after you

Cerbhd

338 posts

113 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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I'll fourth Andy, but not really your neck of the woods, why not contact the ro of the local tvrcc and ask for a local recommendation?

philadcock

Original Poster:

107 posts

283 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
Thanks guys - location doesn't really matter as I'll be trailering it anyway!!

Cerbhd

338 posts

113 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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Andy at Apmtvr then

4.7

155 posts

192 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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Can you wait till he's finished with mine first wink Hoping to have it back for Brands at the end of the month.

philadcock

Original Poster:

107 posts

283 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
Will do - I'm not in a huge rush.....

Suspect the impeller in my water pump has gone which will be an engine out job.

ukkid35

6,379 posts

195 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
My understanding is that if the Aux shaft fails, both water and oil pumps area affected, so unless you are seeing erratic oil pressure it is unlikely to be a water pump issue.

I would start with replacing the least expensive items such as expansion tank cap, thermostat, temp sensor, radiator, before you consider an engine rebuild.

philadcock

Original Poster:

107 posts

283 months

Monday 17th October 2016
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
My understanding is that if the Aux shaft fails, both water and oil pumps area affected, so unless you are seeing erratic oil pressure it is unlikely to be a water pump issue.

I would start with replacing the least expensive items such as expansion tank cap, thermostat, temp sensor, radiator, before you consider an engine rebuild.
Thanks for that. Have changed all of the above but I can't get two miles without overheating. The top hose feeding the rad isn't getting very warm despite a new thermostat which is why the pump is on my list. You're right - it's a common rail with power steering, oil and coolant which is why I was wondering if the impeller had shredded itself. Could also be the start of a head gasket leak but the engine oil is fine. An odd one which is why I need someone with a bigger brain than I have to take a look....

Mr Cerbera

5,148 posts

252 months

Monday 17th October 2016
quotequote all
4.7 said:
Can you wait till he's finished with mine first wink Hoping to have it back for Brands at the end of the month.
Got to be one of the coolest names on PH thumbup

ukkid35

6,379 posts

195 months

Monday 17th October 2016
quotequote all
philadcock said:
Could also be the start of a head gasket leak but the engine oil is fine.
No, it isn't head gasket. I was running my car summer last year whilst under head gasket failure denial. I was able to do individual laps of the Ring without overheating but it would use 2 litres of coolant per lap.

It really does sound like no coolant circulation, is there any chance that debris could have got to the pumps, jammed them causing the water pump Woodruff key to fail, while allowing the rest of the Aux shaft to work correctly. Similar thing happened to me on a visit to the kitty litter in Zolder, the gravel was thrown up in the engine bay, jamming the exposed PS pump coupling causing the PS Woodruff key to fail.

I wonder whether there is any sort of flow sensor/viewer that could help diagnose this issue.

philadcock

Original Poster:

107 posts

283 months

Monday 17th October 2016
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
philadcock said:
Could also be the start of a head gasket leak but the engine oil is fine.
No, it isn't head gasket. I was running my car summer last year whilst under head gasket failure denial. I was able to do individual laps of the Ring without overheating but it would use 2 litres of coolant per lap.

It really does sound like no coolant circulation, is there any chance that debris could have got to the pumps, jammed them causing the water pump Woodruff key to fail, while allowing the rest of the Aux shaft to work correctly. Similar thing happened to me on a visit to the kitty litter in Zolder, the gravel was thrown up in the engine bay, jamming the exposed PS pump coupling causing the PS Woodruff key to fail.

I wonder whether there is any sort of flow sensor/viewer that could help diagnose this issue.
I'm trying to get hold of an IR sensor to check the temp in the pipes, particularly the top hose once the thermostat opens. It will still be an engine out job to fix presumably (?)

ukkid35

6,379 posts

195 months

Monday 17th October 2016
quotequote all
philadcock said:
I'm trying to get hold of an IR sensor to check the temp in the pipes, particularly the top hose once the thermostat opens. It will still be an engine out job to fix presumably (?)
Unfortunately the waterpunps are sandwiched between block and sump, so it's not just engine out, it's a complete rebuild - Sorry.

ukkid35

6,379 posts

195 months

Tuesday 18th October 2016
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philadcock said:
I'm trying to get hold of an IR sensor to check the temp in the pipes, particularly the top hose once the thermostat opens.
Perhaps some sort of water flow sight glass?

plasticman

907 posts

273 months

Tuesday 18th October 2016
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What about using an electric water pump in series .

ukkid35

6,379 posts

195 months

Tuesday 18th October 2016
quotequote all
plasticman said:
What about using an electric water pump in series .
I thought the same, but that would only work if the integral pumps were free to spin on the shaft (which is unlikely), otherwise they would restrict flow.

If they not slipping and are being driven by the shaft, then there must be some other sort of restriction.