Where to buy nuts (M10 10.9 Flange)
Discussion
Most towns have a "nuts n bolts" place.
Like this one.
http://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/subcategory/1...
Like this one.
http://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/subcategory/1...
Jakg said:
After some M10 10.9 flange nuts for some drop links.
Can't seem to find any online (or at least I could, but they wanted £13 delivered for 4!).
Anyone know where I could find some?
not sure where you are in the world, but Bapps is a good bet in Yorkshire!Can't seem to find any online (or at least I could, but they wanted £13 delivered for 4!).
Anyone know where I could find some?
Given that you're specifying a 10.9 grade, I assume these are safety critical, therefore I'd avoid ebay, any muppet can buy cheap bolts from china and sell them on ebay, they could even stamp 10.9 on the top quite easily!
Best bet as above is goto a bolt specialist, there is usually at least one in any UK town!
voicey said:
How tight are you doing your drop links up?! A regular type P nyloc should suffice for any drop link I've come across.
I'm sure a regular nut would be fine - I replaced one with a random flange nut in the past without issue - but as I have time I should try to replace it with the right part.Lemforder links for my car (RenaultSport Megane) come with a flange-style nut with an integral washer, and are marked "10" which google suggests is equivalent to 10.9 grade. Google suggests high tensile bolts are common in this application.
I contacted some local suppliers but none could supply.
I've bought 10x 8.8 for £3 from eBay rather than 4x genuine Renault bolts for £10.
Jakg said:
E-bmw said:
Just put "M10 flange nuts" into ebay it comes up with 13,000 odd of them.
In 10.9 grade?The sole point of using higher tensile fasteners is to be able to apply a higher torque to them to generate a higher preload on the joint so that remains in excess of the operating forces trying to separate the joint. The only thing that matters to you is the recommended torque setting for this item in the manual. There is no point using a higher tensile fastener if you don't increase the torque and it's obviously dangerous to use a lower tensile one without reducing the torque to suit or you risk stripping the threads.
So the burning question becomes "what is the torque setting for this nut"? A Class 8 nut would normally be torqued to about 35 ft lbs with dry threads. A Class 10 one more like 50 ft lbs. However, the material a nut is made of can be varied considerably if the thickness of the nut is changed in the same way as a high tensile bolt or stud can happily be used to the full in say a cast iron engine block which is barely 1/3rd as strong provided there is sufficient thread engagement. For similar materials it is considered sufficient for there to be 1 x the fastener's diameter in engagement. If the material with the female thread is weaker than the bolt then the thread engagement needs to increase.
So in short you can't just mess about with fastener tensile strengths willy nilly without considering thread engagement and torque settings or the exercise becomes pointless.
Jakg said:
E-bmw said:
Just put "M10 flange nuts" into ebay it comes up with 13,000 odd of them.
In 10.9 grade?EFA.
Sorry, I replied to your earlier post before I got down to the one above which covers that too.
Edited by E-bmw on Saturday 29th October 12:22
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