Starting relay..
Discussion
Hello
Please, please does anyone have information for installing the hot start relay. I've contacted the current supplier of the 'hot start kit' numerous times with no response. I've already omitted the immobiliser side of the circuit, i just don't want to cook the ignition. It looks very simple to achieve, just a little guidance would be most welcome.
Thank you.
Please, please does anyone have information for installing the hot start relay. I've contacted the current supplier of the 'hot start kit' numerous times with no response. I've already omitted the immobiliser side of the circuit, i just don't want to cook the ignition. It looks very simple to achieve, just a little guidance would be most welcome.
Thank you.
Just done this following advice on this forum 
Used the immobiliser wire off the solenoid connection, on the starter, ran it to a 30amp relay (fused 10amps), plus earth to starter case.
The heavy duty supply to the relay was then run off the main battery positive cable, on the solenoid, back to the relay and the other side of the relay then back to the original solenoid connection. ( the one that the immobiliser to solenoid came off.)
Made up a small loom, and tie wrapped the small relay to the chassis next to the gear case. Hot start problem solved.
It got tested when I got stuck in traffic the other week and the engine temp ran up close to 100C... on a hill, outside lane
worst place ever for the engine to cut out.....half mile of traffic behind and several changes of traffic lights ahead.....
I sat with it for a couple of minutes before the traffic began to move.... turned key and it fired IMMEDIATELY
Used the immobiliser wire off the solenoid connection, on the starter, ran it to a 30amp relay (fused 10amps), plus earth to starter case.
The heavy duty supply to the relay was then run off the main battery positive cable, on the solenoid, back to the relay and the other side of the relay then back to the original solenoid connection. ( the one that the immobiliser to solenoid came off.)
Made up a small loom, and tie wrapped the small relay to the chassis next to the gear case. Hot start problem solved.
It got tested when I got stuck in traffic the other week and the engine temp ran up close to 100C... on a hill, outside lane
worst place ever for the engine to cut out.....half mile of traffic behind and several changes of traffic lights ahead.....I sat with it for a couple of minutes before the traffic began to move.... turned key and it fired IMMEDIATELY
Chimpongas has posted this on the Griffith section
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I think I have the original instructions somewhere if you have bought and want to use the kit, could copy and send to you over the weekend if needed.
It's quite easy to buy and install a 4 pin relay yourself though, plenty of threads about this on the forums.
I prefer to keep relays inside the car but the easiest method is to put one near the starter itself.
It's quite easy to buy and install a 4 pin relay yourself though, plenty of threads about this on the forums.
I prefer to keep relays inside the car but the easiest method is to put one near the starter itself.
The neatest way I've seen to add a relay is to mount it under the bonnet taking the high amp 12v from the alternator, use the original starter solenoid wire as the trigger. I would still start at the immobiliser though as this is the source of most of the trouble due to the back to front way TVR wired it. Be aware resistance build up in the long & inadequate gauge starter cable is also very common, especially when it gets old and corroded internally.
Saying all that you could bypass the immobiliser, replace the starter cable with something better, add an additional earth then fit a starter solenoid relay only to find you still have issues. None of these improvements will fix a dying battery or a starter motor that's on the way out, there are a number of components in the car's starter system and every one of them needs to be healthy and functioning correctly to give the perfect start.
Most Chims and Griffs that exhibit the starting issues descried by the OP here (http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=9&t=1630359) actually have more than one issue, its usually the accumulation of several components not functioning 100% at their best, this is why just adding a relay can result in the problem raising its head again.... which (if you think you've fixed it) can be very frustrating as the car could let you down at the most inconvenient moment.
To fix the problem properly and permanently you really need to implement the package of improvements I've described not just one of them, you also need a healthy battery & starter motor.
Saying all that you could bypass the immobiliser, replace the starter cable with something better, add an additional earth then fit a starter solenoid relay only to find you still have issues. None of these improvements will fix a dying battery or a starter motor that's on the way out, there are a number of components in the car's starter system and every one of them needs to be healthy and functioning correctly to give the perfect start.
Most Chims and Griffs that exhibit the starting issues descried by the OP here (http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=9&t=1630359) actually have more than one issue, its usually the accumulation of several components not functioning 100% at their best, this is why just adding a relay can result in the problem raising its head again.... which (if you think you've fixed it) can be very frustrating as the car could let you down at the most inconvenient moment.
To fix the problem properly and permanently you really need to implement the package of improvements I've described not just one of them, you also need a healthy battery & starter motor.
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