How much oil does your car use?
Discussion
Mine uses hardly any oil too.
I have done 3k miles now and none has been put in since the 1k service. I have become obsessive about checking it, convinced it should be going down.... but it still seems to be at max.
I guess I am just not driving hard enough! (I will have to blame the weather!)
Mind you Martin... what's your excuse living in Spain?
Elliott
>> Edited by duplicity on Tuesday 15th March 14:12
I have done 3k miles now and none has been put in since the 1k service. I have become obsessive about checking it, convinced it should be going down.... but it still seems to be at max.
I guess I am just not driving hard enough! (I will have to blame the weather!)
Mind you Martin... what's your excuse living in Spain?
Elliott
>> Edited by duplicity on Tuesday 15th March 14:12
My M400 has used about 1 litre between 1000 miles service and 3000 miles, or around 0.5 litres/1000 miles. During that time it's had one track day and a car handling course at Brunters.
Tip: IIRC you need to make sure you check the oil level when the engine is warm and has just been turned off. If it's cold you'll get a false/higher level on the dipstick.
Tip: IIRC you need to make sure you check the oil level when the engine is warm and has just been turned off. If it's cold you'll get a false/higher level on the dipstick.
chillidog said:
My M400 has used about 1 litre between 1000 miles service and 3000 miles, or around 0.5 litres/1000 miles. During that time it's had one track day and a car handling course at Brunters.
Tip: IIRC you need to make sure you check the oil level when the engine is warm and has just been turned off. If it's cold you'll get a false/higher level on the dipstick.
You need to give it a few mins to drop back into the sump though or you'll get a false low reading
DanH said:
My M400 has used about 1 litre between 1000 miles service and 3000 miles, or around 0.5 litres/1000 miles. During that time it's had one track day and a car handling course at Brunters.
Tip: IIRC you need to make sure you check the oil level when the engine is warm and has just been turned off. If it's cold you'll get a false/higher level on the dipstick.
You need to give it a few mins to drop back into the sump though or you'll get a false low reading
Funny enough I do both. Precise isn't it
mr noble said:
Just developed a terrible rattle at the back today. Sounds like something big is about to drop off!!
Have you checked your rear number plate? Found mine rattling around and just about to fall off, a time or two. Now firmly in place!
Enjoy yer snowboarding, but remember plaster casts don't fit in Nobles
Oil - nothing - never has.
Rattle - could be a multitude of things. Check the bracket that attaches the silencer to the chassis - it's a 'known' weak point, but a quick 'weld up' at a service fixes it.
Otherwise check the number plate, the heat shields over the turbos - both have been known to come loose as well.
Failing that, it's normally quite easy to track down, flip the clam, get another person in it, and "blip" the throttle hard. If that doesn't point it out, do the "slowly increasing revs" and that will normally point out to you.
Finally, if you are unlucky, you could have blown a baffle in the exhaust, although that normally goes away when the engine warms up.
To be completly sure, put a screwdriver against what you think it is and do the test again - if it's what you assume you'll feel it in your hand.
Every service centre knows about these small (although somewhat annoying) niggles and will happily spenmd the 10 or so mins sorting it out for you (I've had it 3 or so times on the old car, and MV always happily sorted it out, and I never noticed any charge for it even well after the warranty period).
Hope that helps!
J
Rattle - could be a multitude of things. Check the bracket that attaches the silencer to the chassis - it's a 'known' weak point, but a quick 'weld up' at a service fixes it.
Otherwise check the number plate, the heat shields over the turbos - both have been known to come loose as well.
Failing that, it's normally quite easy to track down, flip the clam, get another person in it, and "blip" the throttle hard. If that doesn't point it out, do the "slowly increasing revs" and that will normally point out to you.
Finally, if you are unlucky, you could have blown a baffle in the exhaust, although that normally goes away when the engine warms up.
To be completly sure, put a screwdriver against what you think it is and do the test again - if it's what you assume you'll feel it in your hand.
Every service centre knows about these small (although somewhat annoying) niggles and will happily spenmd the 10 or so mins sorting it out for you (I've had it 3 or so times on the old car, and MV always happily sorted it out, and I never noticed any charge for it even well after the warranty period).
Hope that helps!
J
Have you seen how the exhausts are made now? There are no baffles to blow out that I can see - presumably thats how they fixed the problem on the later design. There are pics on www.noblecarforums.com.
Think I found it
www.nobleforums.com/showthread.php?t=57
From memory it was the right hand side part that you could blow the welds on (look at the last picture), but I may be talking balony.
Anyway, I haven't blown the baffles for over a year now, so I presume that's not Mr Noble's problem?
J
www.nobleforums.com/showthread.php?t=57
From memory it was the right hand side part that you could blow the welds on (look at the last picture), but I may be talking balony.
Anyway, I haven't blown the baffles for over a year now, so I presume that's not Mr Noble's problem?
J
Yep thats the pic. Not convinced those could blow out as its end to end in the back box so the whole thing would have to come loose. Anyway the design was definitely changed at some point to fix this. Glovers got a broken one on his garage floor so I guess we could have a look at some point
One of my exhaust bolts had come off and this was causing a back end rattle.
Lots of other things it could be too, but they get more expensive so I won't panic the poor guy
[quote=DanH]
Yep thats the pic. Not convinced those could blow out as its end to end in the back box so the whole thing would have to come loose. Anyway the design was definitely changed at some point to fix this. Glovers got a broken one on his garage floor so I guess we could have a look at some point[quote]After I was on my 3rd I think they got fed up with me and fixed it. The photo certainly looks a lot more solid, so I assume that a "new" design one!
J
Yep thats the pic. Not convinced those could blow out as its end to end in the back box so the whole thing would have to come loose. Anyway the design was definitely changed at some point to fix this. Glovers got a broken one on his garage floor so I guess we could have a look at some point
[quote]After I was on my 3rd I think they got fed up with me and fixed it. The photo certainly looks a lot more solid, so I assume that a "new" design one! J
AMG Merc said:
As that exhaust bracket is so weak (mine's gone once)why don't they strap a wide stainless band around the entire exhaust body at that end with a fitting on it that the bracket can attach to - that way there's no direct welding to the exhaust body which is the weak point?
Not had that go on mine. It was literally a bolt that had worked loose and gone awol.
My car has been through a similar number of exhausts to Justins old one too, but the new one has been ok for a while although by the end Andrew was avoiding high revs for sustained periods to save the baffles so one can't be sure
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