Looking at a 54 plate 997 C2S tomorrow...
Discussion
Apart from the usual used car stuff and paperwork etc, is there anything I should pay particular attention too when looking a Gen1 997 C2S over?
I'm going to pay close attention to ticking noises at idle (although I don't know what's normal for a 997) and oil in the coolant expansion tank, but I've not looked closely at a 997 before so a little nervous.
How should the clutch feel and is there a simple way to determine if it's starting to go?
I'm guessing with such a powerful car that my old fashioned 'try to gently pull away with the handbrake on' test might not work?
I can't check for oil consumption, so apart from ticking at idle & oily deposits on the LH exhaust, any other signs of bore scoring?
Thanks in advance.
I'm going to pay close attention to ticking noises at idle (although I don't know what's normal for a 997) and oil in the coolant expansion tank, but I've not looked closely at a 997 before so a little nervous.
How should the clutch feel and is there a simple way to determine if it's starting to go?
I'm guessing with such a powerful car that my old fashioned 'try to gently pull away with the handbrake on' test might not work?
I can't check for oil consumption, so apart from ticking at idle & oily deposits on the LH exhaust, any other signs of bore scoring?
Thanks in advance.
I bought an 05 911 C2 privately a couple of weeks ago & took my local Porsche Indy with me to do a PPI.
He said it was a good un & his 8 page report confirmed this, so I bought it.
I wouldn't consider buying a car of that age & potential bork factor for the sake of a couple of hundred quid for an expert opinion.
As previously posted if you are unsure then a independent inspection would be a wise move, However some vendors might not be in a position to do this with work commitments or distance to a local indy or would only do this on commitment from yourself. You would still need a fair idea of what to look for prior to arranging an inspection as to not waste your cash.
Engine should be quiet from cold and smooth idle but the exhaust note will be rougher and louder for the first 40 to 1 min. The bore score death tick is generally when hot but the occasional sticky tappet when cold is nothing to worry about.
Consumables such as discs, tires, Clutch (they get unbearably heavy but rarely get to the slipping stage) and service items can add up to thousands so look carefully. Exhaust bolts are often overlooked and they turn to powder quicker than a politicians promise, corroded exhaust header bolts can turn in to a engine out job and be big bucks.
Window regulators fail, also look at the headlights and foglights for sand blasting as paint is often replaced but these items give you an insight to how its been used, aircon condensors need changing on a regular basis and usually have a damp patch but can go on for ages like this.
Service history is vital as I am sure you are aware.
Great looking early c2s in grey added to pistonheads today......
Mark
Engine should be quiet from cold and smooth idle but the exhaust note will be rougher and louder for the first 40 to 1 min. The bore score death tick is generally when hot but the occasional sticky tappet when cold is nothing to worry about.
Consumables such as discs, tires, Clutch (they get unbearably heavy but rarely get to the slipping stage) and service items can add up to thousands so look carefully. Exhaust bolts are often overlooked and they turn to powder quicker than a politicians promise, corroded exhaust header bolts can turn in to a engine out job and be big bucks.
Window regulators fail, also look at the headlights and foglights for sand blasting as paint is often replaced but these items give you an insight to how its been used, aircon condensors need changing on a regular basis and usually have a damp patch but can go on for ages like this.
Service history is vital as I am sure you are aware.
Great looking early c2s in grey added to pistonheads today......
Mark
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