Brake fluid leak

[tight fart]

Simple change front pads on wife's Freelander mk1, I even have the factory workshop manual!
They are the single piston type.
Offside done, (you have to crack the bleed nipple to push piston back, then top up)
Nearside I couldn't get the piston back all the way, needs to go back about 10mm probably went 6mm.
After some faffing about I used a G clamp that fitted really well and the piston went back smoothly.
All back together, test drive and the nearside is binding.
Then as I near home, nice clear downhill stretch of road, check nothing else about, try emergency stop.
Start to slow, not impressive then pedal sinks to floor!
Back home safely (300 yards away) and investigate, I'd assumed the calliper seal had failed by forcing the piston back, but it looks like the banjo connection that is on the back of the calliper has failed?

It was a bit hard to see where it was leaking as it was wet everywhere, so I've cleaned it and hoping to inspect it today when dry and clean.

[paintman]

Could even be brake pipe failed if it's the original steel one.
I prefer to clamp the nearest flexi pipe to the caliper I'm working on & open the bleed nipple - length of clear pipe on the nipple to let the old fluid out & nip up the nipple when you've pushed the piston back - on the caliper when pushing the piston(s) back. Easier than trying to force it all back to the reservoir. Any unusual resistance needs further investigation as does dirty brake fluid.

[tight fart]

Yes I've clamped as well though the pipe is very hard not sure it's doing much.

[snotrag]

I always bleed the brakes after a pad or disc change.

Its something that's often ignored, but also gives the perfect chance to check for leaks in the safety of your driveway.

forget any of the fancy pressure bleeding kits, all you need is a willing helper and a bit of tubing.

[paintman]

I'd be replacing that hose. Leak could be due to the corrosion of metal at the end of the hose, the banjo or the sealing washers on the banjo but it would be safer to fit a new one.
What's the rest of the system like?

Edited by paintman on Wednesday 16th November 15:41

[paintman]

snotrag said:

I always bleed the brakes after a pad or disc change.

Its something that's often ignored, but also gives the perfect chance to check for leaks in the safety of your driveway.

forget any of the fancy pressure bleeding kits, all you need is a willing helper and a bit of tubing.

Even MrsP is able to do the pedal pushing!
That said, some difficult systems can be much easier to bleed with a pressure bleeder just be careful to keep the pressure as low as is practical esp when dealing with older vehicles & elderly plastic m/cyl reservoirs

[tight fart]

Most odd, the banjo bolt had become loose.
I ordered a new calliper as the rubber boot had failed, the piston didn't want to go back, and it was binding.
£10 for repair kit, £40 new calliper complete.

[LordLoveLength]

tight fart said:

Most odd, the banjo bolt had become loose.
I ordered a new calliper as the rubber boot had failed, the piston didn't want to go back, and it was binding.
£10 for repair kit, £40 new calliper complete.

Hmmm- why would it come loose? Check the sealing washers for any sign of corrosion, common enough. And the other side!