Otter switch ,leak.
Discussion
Having just got the rad recored and installed new silicon hoses then been through the leak everywhere stage (just keep tightening your nuts !) I finallly got out this saffy for a test drive.
Everything seem to be ok apart from a squirrely back end on the damp roads
got back to base popped the bonnet to find a dribble of water from otter switch.
I have got a new fibre washer and a smear of blue hylomar on, is it worth redoing this AND wrapping a bit of ptfe tape around the threads?
Maybe some silicone sealer instead of hylomar?
Everything seem to be ok apart from a squirrely back end on the damp roads
got back to base popped the bonnet to find a dribble of water from otter switch.I have got a new fibre washer and a smear of blue hylomar on, is it worth redoing this AND wrapping a bit of ptfe tape around the threads?
Maybe some silicone sealer instead of hylomar?
Ptr400J said:
Having just got the rad recored and installed new silicon hoses then been through the leak everywhere stage (just keep tightening your nuts !) I finallly got out this saffy for a test drive.
Everything seem to be ok apart from a squirrely back end on the damp roads got back to base popped the bonnet to find a dribble of water from otter switch.
I have got a new fibre washer and a smear of blue hylomar on, is it worth redoing this AND wrapping a bit of ptfe tape around the threads?
Maybe some silicone sealer instead of hylomar?
A bit of ptfe wouldn't go amissEverything seem to be ok apart from a squirrely back end on the damp roads
got back to base popped the bonnet to find a dribble of water from otter switch.I have got a new fibre washer and a smear of blue hylomar on, is it worth redoing this AND wrapping a bit of ptfe tape around the threads?
Maybe some silicone sealer instead of hylomar?
they compress over a period too PTFE tape won't work because it is not a tapered thread. You could try twisting the tape and wrapping it several times around the top of the thread to form a sort of PTFE washer.
Is the face of the boss you are screwing it into perfect, no small nicks or damage?
There's not a lot of pressure in a cooling system, it "should" seal quite easily with a new fibre (tighten very gently), copper or alluminium washer.
Is the face of the boss you are screwing it into perfect, no small nicks or damage?
There's not a lot of pressure in a cooling system, it "should" seal quite easily with a new fibre (tighten very gently), copper or alluminium washer.
phillpot said:
PTFE tape won't work because it is not a tapered thread. You could try twisting the tape and wrapping it several times around the top of the thread to form a sort of PTFE washer.
Is the face of the boss you are screwing it into perfect, no small nicks or damage?
There's not a lot of pressure in a cooling system, it "should" seal quite easily with a new fibre (tighten very gently), copper or alluminium washer.
Already there with the twisted version Is the face of the boss you are screwing it into perfect, no small nicks or damage?
There's not a lot of pressure in a cooling system, it "should" seal quite easily with a new fibre (tighten very gently), copper or alluminium washer.
of ptfe so now swapped to an aluminium washer having tried the fibre version to no avail.Re-bled the system, coolant everywhere once again
Don't even need to start to see if things have improved so will leave it overnight and check tomorrow.
Didn't get my weekend Tiv fix
phillpot said:
That's the trouble with forums, never sure if you're offering tips and advice or "teaching granny how to suck eggs"!
Fingers crossed your ally washer does the trick
No, its all good stuff ! It helps when others offer thoughts and advice, its "another set of eyes".....well sort of !Fingers crossed your ally washer does the trick
I was more concerned about the switch itself being prone to leaking through the body as a "standard" problem
Really pi 
d off now, bloody thing is still leaking when the engine is not running..........arrrggggggggggghhhhhhhh
Gonna have to take it out AGAIN and investigate the face of the rad and the otter switch for marks / deformation.
Still can't find out if these switches are prone to cracking/ leakage through the body.
Better order some more coolant
d off now, bloody thing is still leaking when the engine is not running..........arrrggggggggggghhhhhhhhGonna have to take it out AGAIN and investigate the face of the rad and the otter switch for marks / deformation.
Still can't find out if these switches are prone to cracking/ leakage through the body.
Better order some more coolant
The otter switch on my wedge was leaking
Turned out the nut that is soldered onto the rad had failed. So for you it may not be the washer but the soldered?
Not sure if how the chim vs wedge is mounted but a different suggestion
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Turned out the nut that is soldered onto the rad had failed. So for you it may not be the washer but the soldered?
Not sure if how the chim vs wedge is mounted but a different suggestion
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
The fault turned out to be the switch, leaking between the switch head body and the outer brass nut.
Thought I had cracked the problem last night as no leaks apparent after re sealing washer yet again, wound it up to temp this morning seemed ok.
Left it to cool came back to find it dripping down the rad and small amount of water sitting in the well of the nut and the actual terminal switch centre.
So, new switch to order, are the Beru ones any good? anyone used them
Thought I had cracked the problem last night as no leaks apparent after re sealing washer yet again, wound it up to temp this morning seemed ok.
Left it to cool came back to find it dripping down the rad and small amount of water sitting in the well of the nut and the actual terminal switch centre.
So, new switch to order, are the Beru ones any good? anyone used them
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