Discussion
My 1992 Griffith needs a soft top makeover. I intend to buy a kit from Mazdahoods and fit it myself over the Christmas holiday ( would keep me away from the dreaded TV Christmas specials ). Is this sheer folly methinks ?? Where possible I like to do jobs myself on the Griff but need to be certain that the finished article looks acceptable. I have a thread on Pistonheads for the targa recover which looks pretty straight forward but can't find anything for the rear section. There was a link to the Griffith pages but this no longer works. Any advice would be gratefully received and if anyone has a detailed description or work sequence then that would be wonderful. Many thanks, Roger.
Have meant to do a write up with pics for a while. In the meantime, the following quick notes may be helpful;
Remove three bolts / cup washers that secure the rear bottom of the rear roof to the body (I'll call this the C section - ie the part that bottom/sides of the rear screen is glued to.) Remove self tappers, one each end - rear portion to the bottom of the rear screen. The nuts to the three bolts need to be undone from boot, and there are options for not having to do this fiddly job again.
The two self tappers may have rusted and may need some work to remove - when replacing use s/s (and screw covers if desired).
Carefully peel away the rear section fabric and screen. If small bits of fibreglass break away from the main hoop, repair as necessary in due course.
Tak plenty of pics.
Note the way the fabric is cut and laps over into the recess (where the rear of the targa slots). Use strong tweezers or thin pliers to gently pull away fabric until you can get a good hold.
Keep lots of clothes pegs handy when it comes to gluing the top front edge (wher it meets targa rear), and also the fabric to the C section.
Use EVO Timebond for flexibility when gluing. Use a brush, even quick strokes, avoid repeating to avoid glue pulling/collecting.
Obviously allow plenty of time and space to work.
Lap and glue rear base of roof to C section. You will need to note the way the fabric has been cut (ie small 'v's) to allow the fabric to gently curve around the shape of the C section. Use the old fabric as a guide (but only as a guide as the old fabric will no doubt be stretched and warped). Once that part has been glued and left to semi-dry, place back onto the body, bolt back into body. Gently lap over the main hoop section. Mark with fine chalk stick where trimming will be required.
Use clothes pegs / tape to temporarily fix in place while you mark with chalk the areas that need cutting, pulling the fabric taught over the hoop.
Ensure that the screen is pulled correctly and is taught across the width C section. You will initially need to check that the screen is correctly stitched into the fabric in the forst place. This is often the reason for wrinkly rear screens. No amount of pulling will solve this. Liklehood is that if the plastic screen is not flush with the fabric in the first place t wont be when in place.
With the hoop up, almost full but not quite - start gluing main hoop/fabric underside (with the hoop struts not locked) and fix fabric ensuring fabric is tight in every direction. Once all done, lock struts and ensure fabric sits correctly. There may be some lifting and redoing to allow good firm closure of struts.
New rubber hoop trim etc.
Consider also how you want to finish off the part that meets the door (ie that awful thin rubber trim glued to the corner of the fabric!).
Think that's most things - bit disjointed but HTH.
Remove three bolts / cup washers that secure the rear bottom of the rear roof to the body (I'll call this the C section - ie the part that bottom/sides of the rear screen is glued to.) Remove self tappers, one each end - rear portion to the bottom of the rear screen. The nuts to the three bolts need to be undone from boot, and there are options for not having to do this fiddly job again.
The two self tappers may have rusted and may need some work to remove - when replacing use s/s (and screw covers if desired).
Carefully peel away the rear section fabric and screen. If small bits of fibreglass break away from the main hoop, repair as necessary in due course.
Tak plenty of pics.
Note the way the fabric is cut and laps over into the recess (where the rear of the targa slots). Use strong tweezers or thin pliers to gently pull away fabric until you can get a good hold.
Keep lots of clothes pegs handy when it comes to gluing the top front edge (wher it meets targa rear), and also the fabric to the C section.
Use EVO Timebond for flexibility when gluing. Use a brush, even quick strokes, avoid repeating to avoid glue pulling/collecting.
Obviously allow plenty of time and space to work.
Lap and glue rear base of roof to C section. You will need to note the way the fabric has been cut (ie small 'v's) to allow the fabric to gently curve around the shape of the C section. Use the old fabric as a guide (but only as a guide as the old fabric will no doubt be stretched and warped). Once that part has been glued and left to semi-dry, place back onto the body, bolt back into body. Gently lap over the main hoop section. Mark with fine chalk stick where trimming will be required.
Use clothes pegs / tape to temporarily fix in place while you mark with chalk the areas that need cutting, pulling the fabric taught over the hoop.
Ensure that the screen is pulled correctly and is taught across the width C section. You will initially need to check that the screen is correctly stitched into the fabric in the forst place. This is often the reason for wrinkly rear screens. No amount of pulling will solve this. Liklehood is that if the plastic screen is not flush with the fabric in the first place t wont be when in place.
With the hoop up, almost full but not quite - start gluing main hoop/fabric underside (with the hoop struts not locked) and fix fabric ensuring fabric is tight in every direction. Once all done, lock struts and ensure fabric sits correctly. There may be some lifting and redoing to allow good firm closure of struts.
New rubber hoop trim etc.
Consider also how you want to finish off the part that meets the door (ie that awful thin rubber trim glued to the corner of the fabric!).
Think that's most things - bit disjointed but HTH.
No probs.
No doubt daunting thinking and starting the job - I know.
I dare say, and don't shoot me down you nice fitters out there (you do a top job) - that a fitter would not have done a better job - as it's the unseen prep that, in hindsight, I would have been concerned about. Costs, hassle and fitter availability time aside (all of which were considerable) - I enjoyed the job with the satisfaction that the job was done to my spec and quality (and mods) - not someone else's - fitting me in amongst a line of others.
Anyway - plenty of pics and will hopefully get something comprehensive uploaded when I have time.
No doubt daunting thinking and starting the job - I know.
I dare say, and don't shoot me down you nice fitters out there (you do a top job) - that a fitter would not have done a better job - as it's the unseen prep that, in hindsight, I would have been concerned about. Costs, hassle and fitter availability time aside (all of which were considerable) - I enjoyed the job with the satisfaction that the job was done to my spec and quality (and mods) - not someone else's - fitting me in amongst a line of others.
Anyway - plenty of pics and will hopefully get something comprehensive uploaded when I have time.
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff