Towbar fitting to GL X164
Discussion
My friend and I have fitted a Westfalia detachable towbar to my 2011 GL today. I didn't stop to take pics but if anyone ever requires any additional instruction on how to remove the bumper (by far the most complex part) then please give me a shout.
Brief description:
1. There are 3 main fixings to remove on each side - 2 bolts and a nut, and a row of 6 bolts holding the lower edge in place. The fixings are all 10mm heads and are located as follows -
> One bolt above the wheel arch linings - you have to remove the plastic poppers holding the wheel arch in place and pull the wheel arch away to access the bolt. This bolt holds the foremost part of the bumper in place. You'll need a 6 inch bar attached to the ratchet driver to reach it.
> One bolt inside the cubby holes - this one is about 20cm behind the other one but inline with it.
> One top hat type of nut accessed from the cubby holes beneath the light cluster. Its bolt is in line with car... fore/aft.
2. Once those fixings and the 6 bolts at the bottom of the bumper are removed, you just pull the bumper backwards. Not too far though because the parking sensor cable exits the left corner through a grommet. Unplug it from the loom (inside the cubby hole) and withdraw.
3. Removing the crash bar and fitting the towbar is pretty straightforward. You will need to lower the exhaust boxes by unscrewing the outer mounts and sliding the inner mounts off the rubbers (nylon lube helps with this bit) and then remove the heat shields so that you can access the lower 2 pairs of nuts and bolts. This is fairly straightforward.
4. The parallel arms are attached with bolts through the floor of the boot. You'll have to remove the lining but the fixings are not reusable so I managed to only remove those near to the boot opening and folding the boot lining back gently without creasing it.
5. Bolt everything loosely to start with. Then tighten in this order (there's a reason) -
> Main bar to body - 8 nuts/bolts in total
> Main bar to parallel arms - 4 bolts in total
> Arms - 4 bolts in total
6. The biggest PITA is cutting the stainless steel rear valence. Here it's up to you. I wanted to make the electrical socket more accessible than the towbar bracket positions it, so I removed that bracket completely and I'm using the valence as a bracket by cutting a U shape and bending it back into the bumper. I wish to make the socket easier to access than I remember was the standard fitting with my ML (same towbar) but equally tucked up out of the way. I will take pics to show you once it's done (I ran out of time today).
Equally, I wanted the hole for the removable towbar to be a hole and not a complete cutout. Having a hole leaves the bumper valence fixed to the car the entire width of the car which is stronger (no flapping). I've accomplished that but I will want to finish it off with some low profile U channel rubber (on order). There's just enough space to turn the handle and remove the towball. When the U channel is in place, there will be no fear about cutting yourself.
7. Last thing... Cutting stainless is really problematic. It's feckin' hard stuff - destroys drill bits (I buy them in packs off the internet so I'm not bothered) and jigsaw blades (again, I have several). For the larger cuts, a diamond blade in an angle grinder is exceptionally useful and has lasted all day. I'm quite pleased with the results but the U channel will finish it off professionally.
8. Although I will finish tomorrow by wiring the socket into the loom, I may wait to connect it to the car until just before my next service so that I can get Mercedes to STAR code it which turns off the rear parking sensors, and I think the rear fog and reverse lights, and it does something for the stability control.
Brief description:
1. There are 3 main fixings to remove on each side - 2 bolts and a nut, and a row of 6 bolts holding the lower edge in place. The fixings are all 10mm heads and are located as follows -
> One bolt above the wheel arch linings - you have to remove the plastic poppers holding the wheel arch in place and pull the wheel arch away to access the bolt. This bolt holds the foremost part of the bumper in place. You'll need a 6 inch bar attached to the ratchet driver to reach it.
> One bolt inside the cubby holes - this one is about 20cm behind the other one but inline with it.
> One top hat type of nut accessed from the cubby holes beneath the light cluster. Its bolt is in line with car... fore/aft.
2. Once those fixings and the 6 bolts at the bottom of the bumper are removed, you just pull the bumper backwards. Not too far though because the parking sensor cable exits the left corner through a grommet. Unplug it from the loom (inside the cubby hole) and withdraw.
3. Removing the crash bar and fitting the towbar is pretty straightforward. You will need to lower the exhaust boxes by unscrewing the outer mounts and sliding the inner mounts off the rubbers (nylon lube helps with this bit) and then remove the heat shields so that you can access the lower 2 pairs of nuts and bolts. This is fairly straightforward.
4. The parallel arms are attached with bolts through the floor of the boot. You'll have to remove the lining but the fixings are not reusable so I managed to only remove those near to the boot opening and folding the boot lining back gently without creasing it.
5. Bolt everything loosely to start with. Then tighten in this order (there's a reason) -
> Main bar to body - 8 nuts/bolts in total
> Main bar to parallel arms - 4 bolts in total
> Arms - 4 bolts in total
6. The biggest PITA is cutting the stainless steel rear valence. Here it's up to you. I wanted to make the electrical socket more accessible than the towbar bracket positions it, so I removed that bracket completely and I'm using the valence as a bracket by cutting a U shape and bending it back into the bumper. I wish to make the socket easier to access than I remember was the standard fitting with my ML (same towbar) but equally tucked up out of the way. I will take pics to show you once it's done (I ran out of time today).
Equally, I wanted the hole for the removable towbar to be a hole and not a complete cutout. Having a hole leaves the bumper valence fixed to the car the entire width of the car which is stronger (no flapping). I've accomplished that but I will want to finish it off with some low profile U channel rubber (on order). There's just enough space to turn the handle and remove the towball. When the U channel is in place, there will be no fear about cutting yourself.
7. Last thing... Cutting stainless is really problematic. It's feckin' hard stuff - destroys drill bits (I buy them in packs off the internet so I'm not bothered) and jigsaw blades (again, I have several). For the larger cuts, a diamond blade in an angle grinder is exceptionally useful and has lasted all day. I'm quite pleased with the results but the U channel will finish it off professionally.
8. Although I will finish tomorrow by wiring the socket into the loom, I may wait to connect it to the car until just before my next service so that I can get Mercedes to STAR code it which turns off the rear parking sensors, and I think the rear fog and reverse lights, and it does something for the stability control.
Edited by Watchman on Tuesday 20th December 20:27
I took a fair bit of inspiration from this thread which is worth a read too:
http://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-x164/458562-gl4...
http://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-x164/458562-gl4...
The socket looks slightly rotated in this pic. It isnt.
It'll look spot on with the U channel stuck on.
From a bit further away...
The angle of the plug will be slightly pointed downwards. With the original bracket, and not cutting too much of the stainless valence away, it would have pointed almost vertically downwards.
Edited by Watchman on Wednesday 21st December 12:16
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