Not another oil question.. Yup
Discussion
Sorry this has got to have been done to death, im about to order some oil for after the rebuild & noticed opie & eurocarparts have sales on..
Im feeling abit confused after reading 'opie oil recommendations' & various threads on here. I have a chimaera 4.0 pre-serp 39,000 mileage & will only use it weekends (intermingled with the 'S') & road use only.
Now TVR recommended 'Mobil 1 SAE 5W/50 Synthetic' which isn't available, Opie Oils recommend the 5w/50 too but reading on here i should be going for 10-15/50?
Cheers
Steve
Im feeling abit confused after reading 'opie oil recommendations' & various threads on here. I have a chimaera 4.0 pre-serp 39,000 mileage & will only use it weekends (intermingled with the 'S') & road use only.
Now TVR recommended 'Mobil 1 SAE 5W/50 Synthetic' which isn't available, Opie Oils recommend the 5w/50 too but reading on here i should be going for 10-15/50?
Cheers
Steve
There are many threads on this, and many opinions.
I believe the main consensus was that 10W/40 semi synthetic is fine on a standard engine with normal use. However, if you've added forced induction (turbo or SC), modified the engine or do a lot of track days, then there's a big range of fully synthetic oils to choose from. Some with extra zinc content.
I believe the main consensus was that 10W/40 semi synthetic is fine on a standard engine with normal use. However, if you've added forced induction (turbo or SC), modified the engine or do a lot of track days, then there's a big range of fully synthetic oils to choose from. Some with extra zinc content.
caduceus said:
I have heard nothing but bad things about Mobil 1 for the Rover V8. Especially reputable engine builders. I'll never put it in mine.
I'll be using engine break in oil with a bottle of Comp Cams oil additive. After that it'll be a semi synth 10/40, as mentioned by Ian above.
^^^^^ this. As said, you will get many opinions. When Powers rebuilt mine, it was first filled with a 10/40 mineral oil as it has better cleaning properties. After 1,000 miles, it was then filled with a brand name 10/40 semi synthetic and has been ever since to maintain the warranty.I'll be using engine break in oil with a bottle of Comp Cams oil additive. After that it'll be a semi synth 10/40, as mentioned by Ian above.
Tony91 said:
Just had a service done at TVR101 and woody put in Engine oil Millers CFS 10W60 NT
That's what he said to use.
That's a great oil, expensive though and being fully synthetic is not suitable for a newly built engine.That's what he said to use.
You really should use a monograde breakin oil for the first initial run up, then switch to a 10/40 mineral oil for the first 10k and before considering a semi or fully synthetic, all must contain the correct level of zinc.
Any RV8 with more than 30k will benefit from a heavier grade oil, I use Penrite HPR15 which is a 15/60 with plenty of the essentiall zinc.
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Tuesday 27th December 19:11
My 500 has done 123k miles with NO engine rebuilds of any sort, run on the cheapest 10/40 semi and still shows 58-60psi hot at 3k rpm. These fancy synthetics were only developed to help emissions and extend change intervals which are absolutely irrelevant unless you do more than 12k+ a year. Also as someone said you should never run a new build on full synthetic as parts will not bed in and are more likely to laquer and shorten their life not increase it. What can also happen, which is especially relevant to RV8s, is the followers will not rotate but 'skid' so increasing cam wear etc. Hence some engines need camshafts at 30k but others do 100k+!
semaj said:
My 500 has done 123k miles with NO engine rebuilds of any sort, run on the cheapest 10/40 semi and still shows 58-60psi hot at 3k rpm.
Impossible to argue with that 
semaj said:
These fancy synthetics were only developed to help emissions and extend change intervals which are absolutely irrelevant unless you do more than 12k+ a year.
^^This^^
semaj said:
Also as someone said you should never run a new build on full synthetic as parts will not bed in and are more likely to laquer and shorten their life not increase it.
That was me 
semaj said:
What can also happen, which is especially relevant to RV8s, is the followers will not rotate but 'skid' so increasing cam wear etc. Hence some engines need camshafts at 30k but others do 100k+!
More excellent advice 
semaj said:
My 500 has done 123k miles with NO engine rebuilds of any sort, run on the cheapest 10/40 semi and still shows 58-60psi hot at 3k rpm. These fancy synthetics were only developed to help emissions and extend change intervals which are absolutely irrelevant unless you do more than 12k+ a year. Also as someone said you should never run a new build on full synthetic as parts will not bed in and are more likely to laquer and shorten their life not increase it. What can also happen, which is especially relevant to RV8s, is the followers will not rotate but 'skid' so increasing cam wear etc. Hence some engines need camshafts at 30k but others do 100k+!
Have you done the majority of the mileage Semaj That's very impressive.
I met up with a Tvr owner today who says his Chims done 200,000 miles, had an engine rebuild at some point and chassis work but it just shows you, the car still looks great
One of our greatest assets must be the bodies, they take it well.
greenhulk said:
these popped up on that opie oils thread
Millers Oils TRIDENT 10w-40 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil (Formerly XSS 10W-40)
Motul 6100 Synergie+ 10W-40 Semi Synthetic Car Engine Oil
would anyone highly recommend any particular brand or are these pretty good oils
cheers
Steve
Out of the two id pick the Millers, a very good oil. Not heard a lot about the Motul but in reality any decent 10w 40 would be ok.Millers Oils TRIDENT 10w-40 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil (Formerly XSS 10W-40)
Motul 6100 Synergie+ 10W-40 Semi Synthetic Car Engine Oil
would anyone highly recommend any particular brand or are these pretty good oils
cheers
Steve
I use a penrite 15w 60 but everyone you ask will give a different answer, i tend to steer somewhere near the original grade that was used in these lumps years ago which i believe was a 20w 50.
Belle427 said:
Out of the two id pick the Millers, a very good oil. Not heard a lot about the Motul but in reality any decent 10w 40 would be ok.
I use a penrite 15w 60 but everyone you ask will give a different answer, i tend to steer somewhere near the original grade that was used in these lumps years ago which i believe was a 20w 50.
cheers, will have a look at the penrite too, the millers i was looking at is here..I use a penrite 15w 60 but everyone you ask will give a different answer, i tend to steer somewhere near the original grade that was used in these lumps years ago which i believe was a 20w 50.
Description
A high quality semi synthetic engine oil for cars and light vans. Application
For use in more modern petrol and diesel vehicles where advantage can be taken of lighter lower viscosity oils for additional power and fuel economy. Suitable for turbo charged engines.
User Benefits
Trident is a SAE 10w40 viscosity grade product which is the preferred grade for many modern engines
It is an ideal lubricant for the modern multi-valve engine designs with hydraulic valve lifters
Trident 10w40 provides excellent fuel economy whilst maintaining high levels of engine protection
hmm is this the right stuff?
ClassicChimaera said:
semaj said:
My 500 has done 123k miles with NO engine rebuilds of any sort, run on the cheapest 10/40 semi and still shows 58-60psi hot at 3k rpm. These fancy synthetics were only developed to help emissions and extend change intervals which are absolutely irrelevant unless you do more than 12k+ a year. Also as someone said you should never run a new build on full synthetic as parts will not bed in and are more likely to laquer and shorten their life not increase it. What can also happen, which is especially relevant to RV8s, is the followers will not rotate but 'skid' so increasing cam wear etc. Hence some engines need camshafts at 30k but others do 100k+!
Have you done the majority of the mileage Semaj That's very impressive.
I met up with a Tvr owner today who says his Chims done 200,000 miles, had an engine rebuild at some point and chassis work but it just shows you, the car still looks great
One of our greatest assets must be the bodies, they take it well.
We've had a few threads like this in the past, I can't remember the winner of the 'highest mileage without a rebuild' competition but there were many in the 'over 100k mile club', I feel fitting a fresh cam is allowed but anything more than this really starts to constitute engine work that should exclude you from the competition because it's not really saying much about the true longevity of the engine.
Semaj's 123k miles with NO engine rebuilds of any sort is the very sort of highly credible and impressive result we need to see, it clearly demonstrates even the 5.0 litre which had a lot more TVR interference is still a very durable engine if correctly maintained.
The important bit for me is 123k miles with NO engine rebuilds of any sort!
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Tuesday 27th December 19:20
Belle427 said:
Out of the two id pick the Millers, a very good oil. Not heard a lot about the Motul but in reality any decent 10w 40 would be ok. I use a penrite 15w 60 but everyone you ask will give a different answer, i tend to steer somewhere near the original grade that was used in these lumps years ago which i believe was a 20w 50.
Millers or Penrite oils are both excellent, my preference goes slight towards Penrite because it's always at the upper end of the viscosity range ("Extra Ten").
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/204%20-%20T...
Both Millers and Penrite oils in their classic ranges are careful to include the additive package essential for older flat tappet engines like the Rover V8, but for me Penrite has the edge because I've seen how well in performs in hot running big Healeys being thrashed to hell on the track and classic rally stages.
HPR 15 for me all the way....
But TBH you really can't go wrong with either Millers or Penrite oils.
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Tuesday 27th December 19:23
greenhulk said:
cheers, will have a look at the penrite too, the millers i was looking at is here..
Description
A high quality semi synthetic engine oil for cars and light vans. Application
For use in more modern petrol and diesel vehicles where advantage can be taken of lighter lower viscosity oils for additional power and fuel economy. Suitable for turbo charged engines.
User Benefits
Trident is a SAE 10w40 viscosity grade product which is the preferred grade for many modern engines
It is an ideal lubricant for the modern multi-valve engine designs with hydraulic valve lifters
Trident 10w40 provides excellent fuel economy whilst maintaining high levels of engine protection
hmm is this the right stuff?
I put that stuff in the daily, it's cheap and good Description
A high quality semi synthetic engine oil for cars and light vans. Application
For use in more modern petrol and diesel vehicles where advantage can be taken of lighter lower viscosity oils for additional power and fuel economy. Suitable for turbo charged engines.
User Benefits
Trident is a SAE 10w40 viscosity grade product which is the preferred grade for many modern engines
It is an ideal lubricant for the modern multi-valve engine designs with hydraulic valve lifters
Trident 10w40 provides excellent fuel economy whilst maintaining high levels of engine protection
hmm is this the right stuff?
the tivs get Millers classic mineral which is 20/50 and high zddp for old fashioned engines.
As long as you change it every 3k you'll have no worries
Alan461 said:
I put that stuff in the daily, it's cheap and good
the tivs get Millers classic mineral which is 20/50 and high zddp for old fashioned engines.
As long as you change it every 3k you'll have no worries
Had my 450 Chime engine rebuilt by John Eales last year & told me to run it on Millers Classic 20/50. the tivs get Millers classic mineral which is 20/50 and high zddp for old fashioned engines.
As long as you change it every 3k you'll have no worries
150k miles before the rebuild btw......... on 15/50 fully synth......
To those that asked, no I have not done all the miles myself. What I received when I bought the car(from probably the most honest owner/driver I have ever met and unbelievably cheap) at 112k was not only the service book but a print out of every part that has been replaced over the years which does include a clutch and a rebuilt final drive but I can categorically say that this car has never had even a camshaft and it still goes like stink and gave me 26mpg on a 1300 mile tour from Cornwall and through Wales. Oh, and I NEVER have to top up the oil or water between changes which I do once a year whatever mileage. I never exceed 2500rpm until temp is showing 85 degrees and never drag it from a standstill but the roll on in 3/4/5th still makes me smile. Turbos and super chargers are of no interest to me I just admire proper built NA motors, anything else is cheating!!!
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