BRT diff front oil seal?.... how to replace??

[TVR Beaver]

Has anyone done this?... I've had a drip for years.. oil level is ok when checked so is only the odd drip... but the cars in the air with the exhaust off... is it something thats easy to do?????.... otherwise fine... no clunks / noise.

you read about things like pre-loads but not sure what that would be... maybe a crush tube in there?... no idea...

If you know anything on these can you share cheers

[rigga]

You need to remove the pinion nut and flange to access the seal, it can be done by witness marking the flange to the shaft, a couple of dot punch marks will do, and count the number of turns to remove the nut, pop the seal out, fit new, and then refit the flange and tighten the nut the same number of turns it came off. In theory preload is not affected, but thats assuming it was ok in the first place.

[TVR Beaver]

Thanks Martin... sounds plausible but I’m a bit unsure of what I’m marking... you mention the nut, flange and shaft... I’m not sure how it goes together so does not help... as I’m marking the flange to the shaft... I assume the nut does not matter... or is this incorrect?.... is the nut in some way connected to the flange and that’s what we are counting??

How tight will it be?... have you done it...
What is the pre-load anyway... is it ‘play removed’ and then 1/8th turn or something?

Sorry for so many questions but must get it right in my head first... then hopefully right on the car ...

cheers.....

[phillpot]

A few guides on YouTube might be useful?


Basically, mark position of everything so it all goes back together exactly as it came off.

[TVR Beaver]

OK... so looks like its the nut and the shaft that needs the pin marks... I can understand that one.... right, once more into the garage

cheers

[rigga]

Yes the nut needs to go back in the same place it was before removal, there is a crush tube between the pinion gear and the case, which gets deformed as preload is applied, this needs to be left in its original condition, no more force applied, and no less, so refit the nut the exact same amount of turns that it comes off, dot punch the end of the shaft, and one next to it on the nut, count rotations to remove.

[TVR Beaver]

Seal is in my hand... and dots everywhere to ensure it all goes back the same... got to say it look a good seal... nice and supple, no marks on the flange dia... ?.... anyway, only 1 way to find out.

can't find the seal on line says on it 0578-044074 66.62 42.06 9.7 NOK TC... with delivery etc people are wanting £25 for them... gggggggrrrrrrrr...

[N7GTX]

Powers have it: http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store/slug/diff...
Remember you have to phone them, no online ordering!

Racetech Direct slightly cheaper: http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/transmis...

Edited by N7GTX on Thursday 29th December 18:21

[TVR Beaver]

yes.. its racetech thats £25.... £26.34 to be precise.. £15 for the seal.. plus £6.95 post.. plus vat !... they will post it Wednesday so should be here for the weekend after the New Year!.... How heavy is this seal.... hope it don't slow me down LOL

Edited by TVR Beaver on Thursday 29th December 22:45

[rigga]

Racetech postage charges are absurd, refuse to purchase from them bcause of that, its a couple of quid at the very most.

[TVR Beaver]

Agreed... but I could not find it in the bearing shops...... so £26 it is... and post it when they feel like it FFS !