Smooth Bore induction
Smooth Bore induction
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Discussion

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,121 posts

289 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
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Have many on here fitted these kits? I received mine through the post today, but didn't get around to fitting it, as I was under and over the car fitting the manifolds and exhaust.

I did offer the pipes up, and after reading that it 'may need a little trimming, I'm beginning to think I've bought the wrong one rolleyes Either tha, or it needs at least 2 inches sawing off eek

There is no diagram to go by, so I ask - how much of the longest pipe (from the AFM) goes through the hole next to the rad (which is too small for this pipe....)?

If anyone has a pic or two I'd like to seem them if possible. I assume you have to re-use the white metal tube that has a boss and nut in it which attaches to the top of the air dam..?

Many thanks
Cad

QBee

22,109 posts

167 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
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I remember Mat Smith fitting mine. A certain amount of work with an air powered tool was required to make the hole through to the air filter's home big enough. Stuck a nice K&N filter on it.
Cannot answer the other question, as I have a different AFM

Steve_D

13,801 posts

281 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
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You may well need to open the hole in the bulkhead but this can be done with a drum sander on an electric drill.

Start with the filter mount bolted in place and assemble the pipes back from that point. The main pipe may need the amount you mention cutting off. You want it to lay nicely along the wing so you may want to move it around to decide if you want to remove material from either or both ends to get the best fit.
The elbow will also need trimming.

Steve

Pupp

12,871 posts

295 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
quotequote all
caduceus said:
There is no diagram to go by, so I ask - how much of the longest pipe (from the AFM) goes through the hole next to the rad (which is too small for this pipe....)?
Assuming nothing has changed on the kit since I did mine years ago, none of the black 'rubber' pipework goes through the bulkhead hole - the hole is traversed with a short steel or alloy joining tube that the moulded soft pipes are then clamped over from either side with hose clips...

ClassicChimaera

12,424 posts

172 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
quotequote all
Pupp said:
Assuming nothing has changed on the kit since I did mine years ago, none of the black 'rubber' pipework goes through the bulkhead hole - the hole is traversed with a short steel or alloy joining tube that the moulded soft pipes are then clamped over from either side with hose clips...
Yep, that's how I did mine about a year ago so nothing's changed smile

mach2

226 posts

257 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
quotequote all
A quick tip for when you come to trim is to use the large jubilee clip tightened around the pipe as a guide and use a new Stanley blade. I also soaked the pipe in boiling water for a few minutes to soften the rubber and it makes it easier to cut.
It's a case of a little bit at a time and trial fit.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,121 posts

289 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
quotequote all
Pupp said:
Assuming nothing has changed on the kit since I did mine years ago, none of the black 'rubber' pipework goes through the bulkhead hole - the hole is traversed with a short steel or alloy joining tube that the moulded soft pipes are then clamped over from either side with hose clips...
thumbup That makes sense now. Thanks Gary.

Is the last/second bit of pipe that goes to the filter, rigid enough for the filter to be suspended? Or do you have to use that OE bit of steel tube that is bolted to the upper air dam bit?

Pupp

12,871 posts

295 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
quotequote all
caduceus said:
Is the last/second bit of pipe that goes to the filter, rigid enough for the filter to be suspended? Or do you have to use that OE bit of steel tube that is bolted to the upper air dam bit?
The filter stays in the same position suspended on the original mounting tube... the moulded pipe should align up to neatly bridge across to the bulkhead joiner. I remember it took a bit of manipulating to get it into the nose and into position but did fit well - think I might have clamped the joiner into the long pipe before slotting that through

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,121 posts

289 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
quotequote all
Pupp said:
think I might have clamped the joiner into the long pipe before slotting that through
I bet that took some wiggle and jiggling to get into position!

Thanks Gary, will give that a try.

Brithunter

610 posts

111 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
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Rubber cuts easier when wet which is where we are more likely to get a puncture in the rain and wet! So wet the blade and the rubber to make it eaiser to cut and trim.

QBee

22,109 posts

167 months

Thursday 29th December 2016
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Marked mine with tippex and took it the joinery shop next door - nice clean cut with a band saw. hehe

ClassicChimaera

12,424 posts

172 months

Wednesday 4th January 2017
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caduceus said:
I bet that took some wiggle and jiggling to get into position!

Thanks Gary, will give that a try.
If I remember correctly I connected pipe to retaining bracket then retaining bracket to car.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,121 posts

289 months

Wednesday 4th January 2017
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ClassicChimaera said:
If I remember correctly I connected pipe to retaining bracket then retaining bracket to car.
Yes, that's what I ended up doing. The front part is in now. Just need to put the rad in, then the long/main bit of induction pipe.
I must say I'm not particularly impressed with this product as a package. It's supposed to be a pre-formed kit for a specific car. But I have had to chop loads off to make it fit properly. A lot of faffing around and £130 odd for a bit of pipe and tube.

Brithunter

610 posts

111 months

Wednesday 4th January 2017
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What induction kit is this please?

ClassicChimaera

12,424 posts

172 months

Wednesday 4th January 2017
quotequote all
caduceus said:
Yes, that's what I ended up doing. The front part is in now. Just need to put the rad in, then the long/main bit of induction pipe.
I must say I'm not particularly impressed with this product as a package. It's supposed to be a pre-formed kit for a specific car. But I have had to chop loads off to make it fit properly. A lot of faffing around and £130 odd for a bit of pipe and tube.
Sorry to laugh but I had similar feelings, not so much having to cut a section off but more the price, but in fairness to it it's stayed in place and the rubber seems to stay pretty cool, it does a good job and my car seems to have benefited quite a bit by both its smooth bore nature and ability to deliver the air rapidly.

It's a tough bit of rubber, should last donkeys years smile
ACT normally supply them.

Milky400

1,960 posts

201 months

Wednesday 4th January 2017
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I remember doing this on my old Chim in the depths of winter, in a freezing cold garage with the pipes sat in hot waters and fan heaters running to try and make the pipe a supple as possible, also chopped no end off to make it fit. Horrid job but got there in the end...

Edited by Milky400 on Wednesday 4th January 10:43

taylormj4

1,597 posts

289 months

Wednesday 4th January 2017
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This may be too late to be of use but just in case, here's a link to one of my previous posts on installation:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...