Battery draining issue help!

[JDR33]

Evening all,

Last saturday i bought a new alternator for my golf mk4 because the one i had prior to replacement had a faulty bearing causing it to squeel on my travels.

I changed the alternator and everything started as should, ran fine for couple of days until yesterday morning i left the house for work and the car was completely dead... i thought the suspect was the battery had a bad cell even though it wasnt even a year old so i just took it back to euro car parts and they provided me a new one (fully tested) popped it in and started up, ran perfect for the rest of the day.

Woke up this morning to deja vu, same problem again which really topped me off! Is it the alternator thats faulty or something else thats causing the draining problem? What should i look out for? Seems strange considering it ran fine before... everything was put back on correctly and tight.

[anonymous-user]

Have you got a multi meter so you test the alternator is working on load, loads of guides online just me safe. But check all connections, earth etc first.

Vcds might be able to monitor not sure.

[finlo]

Check you ignition light isn't on with the engine off. If it is on you have a faulty diode pack in your new alternator.

[JDR33]

Hi thanks for the replies,

I dont have a multi meter unfortunately but my plan is to take it back for a replacement and go from there. The car is completely dead, can only open it manually just seems strange how a battery at 100% charged can go flat over night.

[eliot]

JDR33 said:

Hi thanks for the replies,

I dont have a multi meter unfortunately but my plan is to take it back for a replacement and go from there. The car is completely dead, can only open it manually just seems strange how a battery at 100% charged can go flat over night.

Given the cost of a reasonably good meter (£10) why would you go to the effort of removing the alternator without testing to see if its charging the battery (~14v with the engine running)


You could have these delivered by tomorrow:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B014IZF7HI/ref=mp...


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00H99QEV4/ref=mp...


http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...



http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/uni-t-ut33b-palm-size-di...

Edited by eliot on Friday 27th January 18:42

Edited by eliot on Friday 27th January 18:47

Edited by eliot on Friday 27th January 18:48

[DuraAce]

eliot said:

Given the cost of a reasonably good meter (£10) why would you go to the effort of removing the alternator without testing to see if its charging the battery (~14v with the engine running)

Indeed. A cheap meter that can measure volts and amps is all you need. You're just guessing and clutching at straws otherwise.

Check the charging rate and the parasitic drain. Loads of YouTube videos to guide you if you aren't confident.

[anonymous-user]

JDR33 said:

Evening all,
I changed the alternator and everything started as should, ran fine for couple of days until yesterday morning i left the house for work and the car was completely dead... i thought the suspect was the battery had a bad cell even though it wasnt even a year old so i just took it back to euro car parts and they provided me a new one (fully tested) popped it in and started up, ran perfect for the rest of the day.

There's your first problem, in my experience euro car parts don't sell anything decent, they sell the cheapest refurbished crap they can get their hands on.

I can go into details of stories if you like.

Other places can do you cheaper prices if you ask. I use motor parts direct which is local to me and they can generally match ECP prices within a few pounds. I'd rather pay more than have to replace a part 3-4 times to get one that works. (no fun with wheel bearings or engine mounts with stretch bolts).


Isn's a squeeling belt usually because it's too loose?

Edited by Joef on Monday 30th January 19:54