Help starting a Rover V8
Help starting a Rover V8
Author
Discussion

tight fart

Original Poster:

3,481 posts

297 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Here's a bit of history with this one first,
The has car stood for 10 years plus
After a few jobs it started and run fine (oil, plugs fresh fuel etc)

Then after 6 weeks or so I tried again and couldn't get it going, the fuel tank had corroded so bad it was turning the fuel off.

So now with a replacement fuel tank, fresh fuel it wont start, the fresh fuel is getting to the carbs, (Stronberg solex 175s)

It has a good spark, ignition has not been touched since it last run.

I tried easy start and still nothing, at that point I put my hand over the intake while cranking and there's no suction at all?
Any ideas?


stevieturbo

17,983 posts

271 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Do a compression test.

What do the plugs look like ?

Is it turning over properly ?

Are you sure it has good spark on all 8 and at a time where it would be capable of starting ?

tight fart

Original Poster:

3,481 posts

297 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Turns over fine, plugs look fine with healthy spark, I'm assuming the ignition is ok as the car hasn't moved out of the garage since I last tried to start it. (And it ran)
I had a float bowl off in an attempt to start it with fresh fuel and this is what came out!


I'll do a compression test.

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

284 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Are the jet holders sliding freely in the carbs, up and down? As easy start should have replicated some fueling I'd check for a healthy spark. Also, you'll need a topped up battery especially in this weather.

tapkaJohnD

2,000 posts

228 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Green fluid - has modern fuel dissolved some seals in the system, leading to the colour and no start?
Jhn

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

284 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Is it duckhams oil from the carb dashpots?

tight fart

Original Poster:

3,481 posts

297 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:
Is it duckhams oil from the carb dashpots?
? Could be, how would I know how much to refill with?

Compression all 150-160

Allan L

799 posts

129 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
If you can't detect suction perhaps the valves have stuck open. Often happens with disused engines.
ETA I posted the above at a the same time you reported compressions are o.k., so it isn't that

Edited by Allan L on Sunday 29th January 14:23

tight fart

Original Poster:

3,481 posts

297 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:
Are the jet holders sliding freely in the carbs, up and down? As easy start should have replicated some fueling I'd check for a healthy spark. Also, you'll need a topped up battery especially in this weather.
Nearside feels damped, normal, offside feels loose, undamped, that was the green fuel side.

tight fart

Original Poster:

3,481 posts

297 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Just for info this was a "Barn find" that run easily after all the years standing, now I've gone round the car doing other jobs
I've got ready to start it again for an MOT and it won't go. Only thing I've touched to do with engine running is replace the fuel tank and I have fresh fuel being pumped to the carbs so I know it's not that.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

308 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Allan L said:
If you can't detect suction perhaps the valves have stuck open. Often happens with disused engines.
Or perhaps the cam drive has failed? A quick way to check for that is to pull a rocker cover off and turn the engine over.

Before going into that I'd want to try to confirm the diagnosis by taking a plug out and putting a finger over the open plug hole then turning the engine over by hand. If the base engine is working correctly the compression and power strokes are very obvious.

battered

4,088 posts

171 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
You have tried Easy Start so for now at least it's not carb or fuel related as if it were then the ES would have made it fire and run for a few seconds. To confirm this chuck a teaspoon of petrol in the carb air intake. If there are sparks at the right time and compression this will make it run for a second at least.

You say you have compression, you have sparks, have you done a static ign timing test?
ETA - check your firing order and position of rotor arm/dist cap etc. I once had a Rover 2L 4 pot that was 180° out somehow, only when checking valve positions and counting each cylinder's strokes did it become clear that I had the distributor (or maybe only the cap?) out by 180°.

Edited by battered on Sunday 29th January 14:45

tight fart

Original Poster:

3,481 posts

297 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
I have compression so it's not cam related?
Distributor cap has not been touched, plug leads have been on and off but they only fit one way.
If its not sucking air in through the carb the easy start won't reach the cylinders?

And I'm to cold to go back out there now frown

I think I'll take a carb off next time I get chance to go out there and see if the inlet manifold has a vacuum when turning over
When doing that I'll take a rocker cover off and see what's happening when its turning over.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

308 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
tight fart said:
If its not sucking air in through the carb
Maybe the throttle plate has got gummed up and you need to crack the throttle open a bit?

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

284 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
tight fart said:
Boosted LS1 said:
Are the jet holders sliding freely in the carbs, up and down? As easy start should have replicated some fueling I'd check for a healthy spark. Also, you'll need a topped up battery especially in this weather.
Nearside feels damped, normal, offside feels loose, undamped, that was the green fuel side.
Its duckhams 20/50 that's leaked out. You need to refill the dashpot with 20/50 oil. I can't remember the correct level now but somebody older then me will ;-) Or find a manual.

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

284 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Compression's good so it's safe to assume it's not buggered. Look at the main ht lead and low tension wiring at the coil. You want nice clean connections. You want about 8 degrees static advance but to help with starting you could go to 12 before returning back to the safer factory specs afterwards. As I suggested before, you need a well charged battery to turn over a cold rover lump and produce a good spark. Lastly, dry the plugs out on a gas cooker if they're fouled.

tight fart

Original Poster:

3,481 posts

297 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
Battery is good, and a big booster battery to help, spark is good, plugs not fouling.
I'm not convinced the timing has suddenly gone out as it's Un disturbed, not saying I won't check it.
I think its carburation, no fuel, blocked jet,failed choke type of problem.

finlo

4,304 posts

227 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
If it's an SD1 i recall having to bypass something on the oil pressure sender as it had some control over the fuel pump.

Peanut Gallery

2,663 posts

134 months

Monday 30th January 2017
quotequote all
I'm confused by your no suction comment...

I felt a fair suction coming from my tiny 1.3l carb engine! (dirty fuel required jets to be cleaned about once per tank, you get good at it!)

Timing belts still OK (proven with your compression test) valves not sticking (proven with your compression test)

Are all pistons creating a good compression?

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

308 months

Monday 30th January 2017
quotequote all
tight fart said:
I have compression so it's not cam related?
I was going from your comment that it didn't seem to be sucking air into the intake. If it isn't drawing air in that might be a sign of a fundamental problem so that's what I'd focus on. Conceivably if the cam drive has failed the symptoms would be that valves aren't opening, which would result in lots of puffing and blowing via the plug hole but nothing being drawn into the intake or pushed out the exhaust.