Help starting a Rover V8
Discussion
Here's a bit of history with this one first,
The has car stood for 10 years plus
After a few jobs it started and run fine (oil, plugs fresh fuel etc)
Then after 6 weeks or so I tried again and couldn't get it going, the fuel tank had corroded so bad it was turning the fuel off.
So now with a replacement fuel tank, fresh fuel it wont start, the fresh fuel is getting to the carbs, (Stronberg solex 175s)
It has a good spark, ignition has not been touched since it last run.
I tried easy start and still nothing, at that point I put my hand over the intake while cranking and there's no suction at all?
Any ideas?

The has car stood for 10 years plus
After a few jobs it started and run fine (oil, plugs fresh fuel etc)
Then after 6 weeks or so I tried again and couldn't get it going, the fuel tank had corroded so bad it was turning the fuel off.
So now with a replacement fuel tank, fresh fuel it wont start, the fresh fuel is getting to the carbs, (Stronberg solex 175s)
It has a good spark, ignition has not been touched since it last run.
I tried easy start and still nothing, at that point I put my hand over the intake while cranking and there's no suction at all?
Any ideas?
Boosted LS1 said:
Are the jet holders sliding freely in the carbs, up and down? As easy start should have replicated some fueling I'd check for a healthy spark. Also, you'll need a topped up battery especially in this weather.
Nearside feels damped, normal, offside feels loose, undamped, that was the green fuel side. Just for info this was a "Barn find" that run easily after all the years standing, now I've gone round the car doing other jobs
I've got ready to start it again for an MOT and it won't go. Only thing I've touched to do with engine running is replace the fuel tank and I have fresh fuel being pumped to the carbs so I know it's not that.
I've got ready to start it again for an MOT and it won't go. Only thing I've touched to do with engine running is replace the fuel tank and I have fresh fuel being pumped to the carbs so I know it's not that.
Allan L said:
If you can't detect suction perhaps the valves have stuck open. Often happens with disused engines.
Or perhaps the cam drive has failed? A quick way to check for that is to pull a rocker cover off and turn the engine over.Before going into that I'd want to try to confirm the diagnosis by taking a plug out and putting a finger over the open plug hole then turning the engine over by hand. If the base engine is working correctly the compression and power strokes are very obvious.
You have tried Easy Start so for now at least it's not carb or fuel related as if it were then the ES would have made it fire and run for a few seconds. To confirm this chuck a teaspoon of petrol in the carb air intake. If there are sparks at the right time and compression this will make it run for a second at least.
You say you have compression, you have sparks, have you done a static ign timing test?
ETA - check your firing order and position of rotor arm/dist cap etc. I once had a Rover 2L 4 pot that was 180° out somehow, only when checking valve positions and counting each cylinder's strokes did it become clear that I had the distributor (or maybe only the cap?) out by 180°.
You say you have compression, you have sparks, have you done a static ign timing test?
ETA - check your firing order and position of rotor arm/dist cap etc. I once had a Rover 2L 4 pot that was 180° out somehow, only when checking valve positions and counting each cylinder's strokes did it become clear that I had the distributor (or maybe only the cap?) out by 180°.
Edited by battered on Sunday 29th January 14:45
I have compression so it's not cam related?
Distributor cap has not been touched, plug leads have been on and off but they only fit one way.
If its not sucking air in through the carb the easy start won't reach the cylinders?
And I'm to cold to go back out there now
I think I'll take a carb off next time I get chance to go out there and see if the inlet manifold has a vacuum when turning over
When doing that I'll take a rocker cover off and see what's happening when its turning over.
Distributor cap has not been touched, plug leads have been on and off but they only fit one way.
If its not sucking air in through the carb the easy start won't reach the cylinders?
And I'm to cold to go back out there now

I think I'll take a carb off next time I get chance to go out there and see if the inlet manifold has a vacuum when turning over
When doing that I'll take a rocker cover off and see what's happening when its turning over.
tight fart said:
Boosted LS1 said:
Are the jet holders sliding freely in the carbs, up and down? As easy start should have replicated some fueling I'd check for a healthy spark. Also, you'll need a topped up battery especially in this weather.
Nearside feels damped, normal, offside feels loose, undamped, that was the green fuel side. Compression's good so it's safe to assume it's not buggered. Look at the main ht lead and low tension wiring at the coil. You want nice clean connections. You want about 8 degrees static advance but to help with starting you could go to 12 before returning back to the safer factory specs afterwards. As I suggested before, you need a well charged battery to turn over a cold rover lump and produce a good spark. Lastly, dry the plugs out on a gas cooker if they're fouled.
I'm confused by your no suction comment...
I felt a fair suction coming from my tiny 1.3l carb engine! (dirty fuel required jets to be cleaned about once per tank, you get good at it!)
Timing belts still OK (proven with your compression test) valves not sticking (proven with your compression test)
Are all pistons creating a good compression?
I felt a fair suction coming from my tiny 1.3l carb engine! (dirty fuel required jets to be cleaned about once per tank, you get good at it!)
Timing belts still OK (proven with your compression test) valves not sticking (proven with your compression test)
Are all pistons creating a good compression?
tight fart said:
I have compression so it's not cam related?
I was going from your comment that it didn't seem to be sucking air into the intake. If it isn't drawing air in that might be a sign of a fundamental problem so that's what I'd focus on. Conceivably if the cam drive has failed the symptoms would be that valves aren't opening, which would result in lots of puffing and blowing via the plug hole but nothing being drawn into the intake or pushed out the exhaust.Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


