Front Coilover Conversion
Discussion
After a number of years just doing the minimum on the Wedge (putting kids through Uni etc) it's time to start fixing and improving a few of the things I never got round to.
I'm seriously considering the conversion to front coilovers on the Tasmin. It's something I've avoided doing up to now as it will require upper chassis mount modifications. The obvious gains are that it's easier to work on (never been a big fan of spring compressors and 2 trolley jacks to get the lower arm back on) and full adjustment of Camber etc.
I know there have been issues in the past with 'bolt on' solutions but I'd be very interested to hear views from people who have successfully done the conversion. Did it improve handling, ride quality etc? Where did you get the work done?
Any info much appreciated.
Cheers Steve
I'm seriously considering the conversion to front coilovers on the Tasmin. It's something I've avoided doing up to now as it will require upper chassis mount modifications. The obvious gains are that it's easier to work on (never been a big fan of spring compressors and 2 trolley jacks to get the lower arm back on) and full adjustment of Camber etc.
I know there have been issues in the past with 'bolt on' solutions but I'd be very interested to hear views from people who have successfully done the conversion. Did it improve handling, ride quality etc? Where did you get the work done?
Any info much appreciated.
Cheers Steve
have a look at my johns wedge rebuild thread i have done lots to both front and rear suspension all coilover and fully adjustable so might be of help mine is now fully tested did a few sprints last year and the adjustability was a great help with setup.heres the link
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
suspension work starts around page 3
john
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
suspension work starts around page 3
john
Edited by Engineer1949 on Tuesday 7th February 16:21
I know they are in Australia but it looks like they could help no bother.
http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/replacetubwis...
There must be someone in the UK that can do this?
http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/replacetubwis...
There must be someone in the UK that can do this?
I have made the front conversion out of necessity having bought an aftermarket kit that was basically rubbish. My conversion is very sound and is up to the job. I got a professional to do the welding utilising the factory parts with upper and lower shock mount brackets that I designed myself and then had laser cut. I'm in the process of changing the bushing on the front suspension. When I remove the front lower arms I'll take some pics and post them up so you can see.
My upper mount brackets are the same as John's Wedge rebuild although I converted mine a several years before John did his Wedge so I can vouch for the durability and robustness of the conversion with many variations in road surfaces providing a good test bed often at high speed. When doing the conversion your shocks will have to be made bespoke so make sure you get the measurements of what you need spot on.
My upper mount brackets are the same as John's Wedge rebuild although I converted mine a several years before John did his Wedge so I can vouch for the durability and robustness of the conversion with many variations in road surfaces providing a good test bed often at high speed. When doing the conversion your shocks will have to be made bespoke so make sure you get the measurements of what you need spot on.
I used to own a wedge with coil overs and adjustable shocks fitted by the previous owner but after a while it started falling apart. The welding on the front was coming away and the bolts had loosened up. It cost me a lot of money to have the whole front suspension rebuilt to a safe standard and even then the steering geometry was never quite right. Yes it handled better and was adjustable to the desired stiffness and hight but if you ask me it was a nightmare putting right someone else's mistakes and wasn't worth the effort. Also it takes away the originality of the car.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
rev-erend said:
One of the SEAC owners had it converted.. not sure who though.
Scroll down for pics http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...My FHC racer was converted my Moore racing, it was a very intensive modification, with rose joints and nitron shocks.
The car also had a cross brace to like both sides together and make it a lot stiffer.
My car has been used by several owners and done quite a few season of the TVR tasmin challenge as well as the Tuscan challenge by Keven and myself.
but it did eventually fail, and tore the complete turret and lower mounting point out of the car, the only thing that stopped a complete disaster was the top link that was connected to the top chassis rail and cross brace.
The tops links and cross brace was 6mm steel either side so very over kill, but saved my bacon.
Also I could not see the problem until it got very bad, I knew something seemed odd in practice. but we could not find a problem, as the crack was closing when not on load, and only getting worse on strain. I would not want to be on the road with this happening. luckily we was able to inspect the car, put it on the trailer when we saw the problem.
I do think though the standard setup is quite good if its all setup the best it can be and all parts are working as they should be, so I would go getting it working the best I could standard 1st.
The car also had a cross brace to like both sides together and make it a lot stiffer.
My car has been used by several owners and done quite a few season of the TVR tasmin challenge as well as the Tuscan challenge by Keven and myself.
but it did eventually fail, and tore the complete turret and lower mounting point out of the car, the only thing that stopped a complete disaster was the top link that was connected to the top chassis rail and cross brace.
The tops links and cross brace was 6mm steel either side so very over kill, but saved my bacon.
Also I could not see the problem until it got very bad, I knew something seemed odd in practice. but we could not find a problem, as the crack was closing when not on load, and only getting worse on strain. I would not want to be on the road with this happening. luckily we was able to inspect the car, put it on the trailer when we saw the problem.
I do think though the standard setup is quite good if its all setup the best it can be and all parts are working as they should be, so I would go getting it working the best I could standard 1st.
Maybe handy if you do go for it http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-400SE-Wedge-damper-and...
what is the reaosn to convert to coilovers?
imo, there is NO reason. once you set the ride-height,the job is done and you will never touch this "option" again.
the same can be achieved by choosing the correct length of springs.
the original damper can be purchased in adjustable version.
easy, effective, job done.
imo, there is NO reason. once you set the ride-height,the job is done and you will never touch this "option" again.
the same can be achieved by choosing the correct length of springs.
the original damper can be purchased in adjustable version.
easy, effective, job done.
The other problem is that the spring length depends on the force imposed on it, and also very very slightly the age.
So your ride height depends on the weight int he car.
Yes I know in the wedge the front weight doesn't vary too much because even the driver and passenger have their bums next to the rear wheels, and the petrol likewise, but there is a small effect.
So your ride height depends on the weight int he car.
Yes I know in the wedge the front weight doesn't vary too much because even the driver and passenger have their bums next to the rear wheels, and the petrol likewise, but there is a small effect.
GinG15 said:
what is the reaosn to convert to coilovers?
imo, there is NO reason. once you set the ride-height,the job is done and you will never touch this "option" again.
the same can be achieved by choosing the correct length of springs.
easy, effective, job done.
Coil over springs are (mostly) available from stock so it's a lot easier (and cheaper) to change spring length and spring rate, although the monsters needed for the front tend be special order it's still easier than getting car specific springs made. Once you get to a combination that works for you yes there is no great benefit but the fact that you can adjust things a lot easier is the major reason for the conversion. imo, there is NO reason. once you set the ride-height,the job is done and you will never touch this "option" again.
the same can be achieved by choosing the correct length of springs.
easy, effective, job done.
Gents, thanks for all the input. I'm still deciding what to do and it's not an easy decision.
Sourcing springs for the 200 is a problem. A spring suitable for a 280 or 350 is no good... been there done that. Had to have some specially made in the end and even then the ride height wasn't perfect. Having adjustable ride height would make it much easier.
I was sort of hoping someone may have had some experience of the before and after and say that it 'transformed the handling'... that would have made the decision much easier. It seems that's probably not the case and the main reasons for doing the upgrade are more about adjustablity (if there is such a word)and making the car easier to work on and source springs etc.
Cheers Steve
Sourcing springs for the 200 is a problem. A spring suitable for a 280 or 350 is no good... been there done that. Had to have some specially made in the end and even then the ride height wasn't perfect. Having adjustable ride height would make it much easier.
I was sort of hoping someone may have had some experience of the before and after and say that it 'transformed the handling'... that would have made the decision much easier. It seems that's probably not the case and the main reasons for doing the upgrade are more about adjustablity (if there is such a word)and making the car easier to work on and source springs etc.
Cheers Steve
Well im one of the SEAC owners on here that has got coil overs on the front.
I did my own fabrication but have the tools and access to do this and it took a bit of planing before one started.
I can't say for sure its miles better than the stock setup as i didn't do lots of miles but ive done thousands of miles with my current setup plus 2 trips to LeMans Classic with track tourers with high ish speed runs down the mulsan over 130plus and plenty of A and B road bashing on local roads and Rusty Nails up north.
For mentje tweek ability is key, easy to get springs and they are cheep, changing of ride height for different road surfaces and changing the comfort setting at a click.
Some say once set they wouldn't change once set but for thats not the case for me. I love the feel and it looks cleaner behind the front wheels plus when jacked up there isn't tones of excess wheel travel so the bump steer is better.
This may not be a conversation for every one, some will say it takes the originality out of the car, I say it's an evolution of design.
If I were ever to have another wedge I would do it again.
I did my own fabrication but have the tools and access to do this and it took a bit of planing before one started.
I can't say for sure its miles better than the stock setup as i didn't do lots of miles but ive done thousands of miles with my current setup plus 2 trips to LeMans Classic with track tourers with high ish speed runs down the mulsan over 130plus and plenty of A and B road bashing on local roads and Rusty Nails up north.
For mentje tweek ability is key, easy to get springs and they are cheep, changing of ride height for different road surfaces and changing the comfort setting at a click.
Some say once set they wouldn't change once set but for thats not the case for me. I love the feel and it looks cleaner behind the front wheels plus when jacked up there isn't tones of excess wheel travel so the bump steer is better.
This may not be a conversation for every one, some will say it takes the originality out of the car, I say it's an evolution of design.
If I were ever to have another wedge I would do it again.
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