SEAC Fuses and Relays

[rev-erend]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the SEAC.

Here is a picture of my relays and fuses but they don't match the layout for
the 400SE wiring diagram that I have.

If anyone has any info - please let me know.

[The Hatter]

Mine doesn't look anything like that...



It didn't look anything like my 350i either, I had to work through it the hard way.

[Mr Tank]

Hi Alan

I have found my 450SEAC's fues board and relays nearly match the layout of a 400SE/450SE layout (Below) OK I have a few differences but the basic's are them same.



I hope this is off some use.

Andy

[Hamish400]

My relay arrangement was as per diagram from. Andy BUT two of the relay (and relevant base) positions were changed. If I recall correctly it was the fuel pump relay and another one. I had removed the relay panel to sort out a bad connection, and when refitting it put the relays in as per original diagram. Car would not start. Had to check colour codes of wires at the relay bases to establish which relay should go where. Car is not at home at present so cannot immediately check corrected relay positions
Suggest you compare wiring diagram colour codes with wires connected to relay bases to sort out which relay goes where.
I have a wiring diagram, and relay/fuse layout diagram (corrected for my car) and can send you a copy if it helps. (400SE)

Rgds
Hamish

[rev-erend]

I have the 400/450 se diagrams ..

Starting to look like I will have to do it by elimination.

[KKson]

Mr Tank said:

Hi Alan

I have found my 450SEAC's fues board and relays nearly match the layout of a 400SE/450SE layout (Below) OK I have a few differences but the basic's are them same.



I hope this is off some use.

Andy

Andy, most brilliant thread as I was struggling with the wiring on the SEAC. That's why I still love PH. You can actually search the history. Cheers.

[Mr Tank]

Hi Keith
The main differances I had from the 400/450SE diagram were for the headlight washers my car has/had This involved extra relays and fuses.

[KKson]

Thanks Andy. i did try pulling each and every relay to double check what they did. Apart from the Pektron red relay no others stopped the fuel pump running. On my 350i and 390Se, with ignition in the on position, only a poke of the AFM flap would get the fuel pump going. On the SEAC it seems to run all the time and previous owner Duncan says it's been like that for the 20 years he's owned it.

Did have a further strip down last night. Passenger seat and glove box now dismantled and turned to the rear calipers. Interestingly one piston in each rear caliper is seized. After spending 30 minutes trying to get my fat hands around the caliper bolts I think I'm resigned to the fact that I will have to drop the diff and cradle to get access to the brakes. Bit of a bugger, but need to do it right. Rear mount from the roll bar is cut through the boot floor and is bolted on top of the diff cradle mount, just to complicate matters. Cheers.

[eesbad]

KKson said:

On my 350i and 390Se, with ignition in the on position, only a poke of the AFM flap would get the fuel pump going. On the SEAC it seems to run all the time and previous owner Duncan says it's been like that for the 20 years he's owned it.

On my 350i the fuel pump comes on with the ignition too, like your SEAC. Thought they all did!

[Mr Tank]

KKson said:

Rear mount from the roll bar is cut through the boot floor and is bolted on top of the diff cradle mount, just to complicate matters. Cheers.

Hi Keith

That's a new one, none of my SEAC's had that even the race car, mind you that has other things mounted through the boot floor.

Your fuel pump is not correct, OK it comes on when you turn the ign on but it should stop once there is pressure in the system and then run once the flap in the AFM has moved due to air being sucked into the engine etc, again none of my SEAC's did what yours is doing.

The SEAC race car is different again as it has two fuel pumps (In the boot) and with the Carbs they run all the time.

Andy

Edited by Mr Tank on Saturday 5th October 12:22

[Penelope Stopit]

Mr Tank said:

Your fuel pump is not correct, OK it comes on when you turn the ign on but it should stop once there is pressure in the system and then run once the flap in the AFM has moved due to air being sucked into the engine etc, again none of my SEAC's did what yours is doing.

As above

Fuel pump cable terminates to fuel pump relay, possibly through fuse and inertia switch

Pektron can't possibly drive a fuel pump correctly due to volt drops across diodes (diodes probably would burn out), shouldn't be connected to the pump

Possible bodge of the fuel pump wiring and also Pektron internals bridged out

[KKson]

May well be bodged but it's been that way for 22 years according to the previous owner. It now starts on the button and first crank which is good. I will trace the wiring to double check what's gone on. Cheers.

[KKson]

Mr Tank said:

KKson said:

Rear mount from the roll bar is cut through the boot floor and is bolted on top of the diff cradle mount, just to complicate matters. Cheers.

Hi Keith

That's a new one, none of my SEAC's had that even the race car, mind you that has other things mounted through the boot floor.

Here's a picture of the offending bracket. The gap around the diff mount bolt is too thin to get a spanner in. I'm thinking of butchering one of my old spanners with an angle grinder to see if I can squeeze it in to stop the bolt head spinning so I can drop the cradle and diff.

[Penelope Stopit]

KKson said:

May well be bodged but it's been that way for 22 years according to the previous owner. It now starts on the button and first crank which is good. I will trace the wiring to double check what's gone on. Cheers.

Good thinking. There can be nothing worse than being stuck inside a car with petrol spraying out and being unable to turn the key off

[adam quantrill]

Keith I had a similar problem when I did mine.

If you undo (don't have to remove) the body mounting bolts in the boot, then jack up the tub under the boot (use a plank of wood) then the body will flex up as much as 5mm, maybe 10mm, plenty to get the spanner in.

[KKson]

adam quantrill said:

Keith I had a similar problem when I did mine.

If you undo (don't have to remove) the body mounting bolts in the boot, then jack up the tub under the boot (use a plank of wood) then the body will flex up as much as 5mm, maybe 10mm, plenty to get the spanner in.

Thanks Adam. I've disconnected the bolts chassis to body as they were likely to be in the way when I fire up the grinder so will try jacking the rear of the body tomorrow. Prop shaft is disconnected and a cup of diff oil came out of the joint so a leak there. Managed to disconnect brake flexible in engine bay, and pulled it all the way back to the diff so all ready to drop diff and carrier first job tomorrow. Cheers.