Petrol Pipe replacement
Discussion
Exactly what spec petrol pipe is used on the wedge cars (on the high pressure side)? Is it a particular Bar rating and internal diameter bore?.
Something like 15 bar and 8mm bore??.
I was thinking of replacing all of the pipe including all of the interconnecting stuff for some braided gear.
I have copper pipe running along the length of the car until it ends in the wheel arch where some rubber stuff takes it into the engine bay (the delivery pressureised side).
The return pipe is then rubber all of the way back to the tank and looks decidedly dodgy.
Suggestions?
MikeB
Something like 15 bar and 8mm bore??.
I was thinking of replacing all of the pipe including all of the interconnecting stuff for some braided gear.
I have copper pipe running along the length of the car until it ends in the wheel arch where some rubber stuff takes it into the engine bay (the delivery pressureised side).
The return pipe is then rubber all of the way back to the tank and looks decidedly dodgy.
Suggestions?
MikeB
I managed to get hold of 10 bar EFI rated stuff from my local spares bod - would this be good enough?.
The braided stuff that came with the car has just crumbled to nothing, pissing and squirting petrol all over the place. If I showed you the pictures you would crap yourself.
Replaced it with the 10 bar stuff to get by but wondered if that would be good enough long term?
If nothing else this weekend go and check your petrol pipe.........
MikeB
The braided stuff that came with the car has just crumbled to nothing, pissing and squirting petrol all over the place. If I showed you the pictures you would crap yourself.
Replaced it with the 10 bar stuff to get by but wondered if that would be good enough long term?
If nothing else this weekend go and check your petrol pipe.........
MikeB
The feed pipe looks like copper tube which runs down the drivers side outer outrigger rail. It then stops half way under the front wheel arch and then connects to rubber pipe and pops through a hole in the inner wing to the engine.
The return is rubber all the way (10 bar stuff) from the engine to the fuel tank and that runs along the same path as the feed.
The pipe that catastrophically failed on mine ie. totally fell to bits and turned into a sprinkler connected the fuel filter to the fuel pump. Also the pipe that connected the fuel filter to the copper fuel rail at the back of the car.
Funn thing is as the old pipe was covered in braid the cracking of the pipe with the braid removed exactly matched the pattern of the braid, so I guess that the pipe was swelling under pressure and was weakened by the braid digging into it?.
When I removed the braid on the failed pipe the pipe looked ok until you bent it and the pattern of the braid had cracked the pipe all the way through. the pipe then just crumbled.
Weird. Lucky to pick it up on the driveway and not doing 70(ish) along the motorway.
MikeB
The return is rubber all the way (10 bar stuff) from the engine to the fuel tank and that runs along the same path as the feed.
The pipe that catastrophically failed on mine ie. totally fell to bits and turned into a sprinkler connected the fuel filter to the fuel pump. Also the pipe that connected the fuel filter to the copper fuel rail at the back of the car.
Funn thing is as the old pipe was covered in braid the cracking of the pipe with the braid removed exactly matched the pattern of the braid, so I guess that the pipe was swelling under pressure and was weakened by the braid digging into it?.
When I removed the braid on the failed pipe the pipe looked ok until you bent it and the pattern of the braid had cracked the pipe all the way through. the pipe then just crumbled.
Weird. Lucky to pick it up on the driveway and not doing 70(ish) along the motorway.
MikeB
From bitter experience, try to use 8mm ID line, as the flexible stuff will give you more back pressure. I managed to clock up 2 bar of back pressure on my 280 using 6mm ID rubber pipe, this virtually vanished when I used 8mm pipe. I guess you might could use 6mm smoothbore pipe, but it is expensive, and you need special tools to install the couplings. I think this is what the capri 2.8i used. Of course the 2.8 system runs at 5bar, as opposed to 2.5bar for the V8, so the back pressure might not get yer so bad.
-jim
-jim
Had a look at mine they appear to be in good nick all apart from one approx 18ins long that connects between the round canister things - this has surface cracking.
Time to renew sooner than later I think.
No braiding on any of the pipes
Can someone answer this -
Does petrol need a spark or flame to ignite or will petrol on hot exhaust pipe (after silencer) be enough to cause plenty of
Time to renew sooner than later I think.
No braiding on any of the pipes
Can someone answer this -
Does petrol need a spark or flame to ignite or will petrol on hot exhaust pipe (after silencer) be enough to cause plenty of
The Colonel said:It would be unlikely for petrol to ignite on a hot exhaust (after the silencer on a wedge at least). I had a pipe disconnect itself from one of the tanks a couple of years ago and deposit half a tank over the exhaust, but it was fine.
Can someone answer this -
Does petrol need a spark or flame to ignite or will petrol on hot exhaust pipe (after silencer) be enough to cause plenty of
Called the fire brigade who came and cleared up the mess, and they said it would even be unlikely for the pool of petrol at the side of the road to ignite with a discarded fag butt.
Right then,
Take a look at these then.......
www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/mike.html
i guarantee that tomorrow you will go and check your petrol pipes........
What made things worse was the braid covering up the fact that the pipe underneath had completely failed.
MikeB
Take a look at these then.......
www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/mike.html
i guarantee that tomorrow you will go and check your petrol pipes........
What made things worse was the braid covering up the fact that the pipe underneath had completely failed.
MikeB
The Colonel said:
Had a look at mine they appear to be in good nick all apart from one approx 18ins long that connects between the round canister things
That would be between the pump and the fuel filter which would be on the high pressure side, which is exactly the bit of pipe in the pictures that went on mine.....
MikeB
richa said:
Can someone answer this -
Does petrol need a spark or flame to ignite or will petrol on hot exhaust pipe (after silencer) be enough to cause plenty of
It would be unlikely for petrol to ignite on a hot exhaust (after the silencer on a wedge at least). I had a pipe disconnect itself from one of the tanks a couple of years ago and deposit half a tank over the exhaust, but it was fine.
Called the fire brigade who came and cleared up the mess, and they said it would even be unlikely for the pool of petrol at the side of the road to ignite with a discarded fag butt.
Richa, re. the hot pipe - that was my assumption as well.
Never had a car like this before though, where the tailpipe section gets so incredably hot. In fact whilst with the previous owner the pipe just before the tailpipe exit position was misaligned and touching the fibreglass thus setting fire to the boot carpet.
- I still have got the charred remains! (carpet fix on the to do list)
mikeb said:
Had a look at mine they appear to be in good nick all apart from one approx 18ins long that connects between the round canister things
That would be between the pump and the fuel filter which would be on the high pressure side, which is exactly the bit of pipe in the pictures that went on mine.....
MikeB
Mike, my suspect pipe is the one between what I think is called the swirl pot and the pump.
Then a pipe connects from pump into a big fat filter (both bolted to mounting plate) and from the filter a pipe runs along offside outrigger tube to under front wing as you descibed earlier.
Are we favouring pipe with no braiding - so that you can keep an eye on the state of rubber?
Cheers
i am asuming that would be low pressure then as it is before the pump and would be a bigger diameter tube to the one shown in the picture.
Everything is braided on my car! The guy who had it must have worked at a braided hose factory and spent most of his time in the factory shop!.
After taking apart the pipe that failed I have been having second thoughts on the braided bit, although I might still use some under the wheel arch where it is likely to get hit by stones and road crap. The trouble is you just cannot tell the condition of the hose with the covering on.
For instance look at the piccies and if you look at the braided part of the hose it all looks like new. But obviously the inner tube has bought the farm but you cannot tell as the braide covers the cracks.
MikeB
Everything is braided on my car! The guy who had it must have worked at a braided hose factory and spent most of his time in the factory shop!.
After taking apart the pipe that failed I have been having second thoughts on the braided bit, although I might still use some under the wheel arch where it is likely to get hit by stones and road crap. The trouble is you just cannot tell the condition of the hose with the covering on.
For instance look at the piccies and if you look at the braided part of the hose it all looks like new. But obviously the inner tube has bought the farm but you cannot tell as the braide covers the cracks.
MikeB
mikeb said:
i am asuming that would be low pressure then as it is before the pump and would be a bigger diameter tube to the one shown in the picture.
Everything is braided on my car! The guy who had it must have worked at a braided hose factory and spent most of his time in the factory shop!.
After taking apart the pipe that failed I have been having second thoughts on the braided bit, although I might still use some under the wheel arch where it is likely to get hit by stones and road crap. The trouble is you just cannot tell the condition of the hose with the covering on.
For instance look at the piccies and if you look at the braided part of the hose it all looks like new. But obviously the inner tube has bought the farm but you cannot tell as the braide covers the cracks.
MikeB
Yep, the fatter dia low pressure one.
I wouldnt bother using braided under the wheel arch, stones will bounce off rubber ok and one less joint
You could liken this senario with olden day thick underseal on chassis, it often hides whats going on underneath the stuff.
Yeah too right.
Except in this case whats going on under the underseal would'nt burn you to death in a horrible fireball and ruin your day!.
I am gonna go down my local rally supply shop in the week ( peterlloydrallying.co.uk ) and see what he has to offer in the way of reinforced hi-pressure performance petrol pipe and clips - I don't want this happening again.
MikeB
Except in this case whats going on under the underseal would'nt burn you to death in a horrible fireball and ruin your day!.
I am gonna go down my local rally supply shop in the week ( peterlloydrallying.co.uk ) and see what he has to offer in the way of reinforced hi-pressure performance petrol pipe and clips - I don't want this happening again.
MikeB
Hi,
I was doing a "get the car ready for summer" service at the weekend and noticed the large diameter pipe from the swirl pot to the fuel pump was very cracked. I'm surprised it passed it's MOT late last year.
Suffice it to say I'll be replacing the pipe. Definately a thing for everyone to check.
None of my pipes are braided.
Nigel
I was doing a "get the car ready for summer" service at the weekend and noticed the large diameter pipe from the swirl pot to the fuel pump was very cracked. I'm surprised it passed it's MOT late last year.
Suffice it to say I'll be replacing the pipe. Definately a thing for everyone to check.
None of my pipes are braided.
Nigel
mikeb said:
I have copper pipe running along the length of the car
MikeB
I'd recommend changing the copper pipe for stainless steel. The copper dissolves in the fuel and acts as a catalyst; increasing deposits in the injection system. This has a particularly bad effect on the injectors, which can foul up giving you poor running, bad starting and less power. Some engine manufacturers have reported 10% power loss in 24 hours of test bed running
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