Gtv ts rust query
Discussion
Been looking at a gtv , sub grand and cambelt change done 10,000 miles ago.
Trouble is checking the mot history and it's failed a few times on corrosion and i thought these were all fully galvanised?
2016-
Reason(s) for failure
offside rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded floor holed (5.2.6)
nearside rear lower Suspension arm corroded and seriously weakened front arm (2.4.G.1)
offside rear lower Suspension arm corroded and seriously weakened front (2.4.G.1)
nearside rear Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded floor both sides (5.2.6)
2014-
Offside Inner Rear Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)
Obviously these have been sorted as the cars mot'd until dec.
Trouble is checking the mot history and it's failed a few times on corrosion and i thought these were all fully galvanised?
2016-
Reason(s) for failure
offside rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded floor holed (5.2.6)
nearside rear lower Suspension arm corroded and seriously weakened front arm (2.4.G.1)
offside rear lower Suspension arm corroded and seriously weakened front (2.4.G.1)
nearside rear Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded floor both sides (5.2.6)
2014-
Offside Inner Rear Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)
Obviously these have been sorted as the cars mot'd until dec.
Floorpan corrosion on Alfas of that age is common - I had an advisory on my 145 at 6 years old, which I was able to catch in time.
What had happened with mine was that the underseal had failed at the joint between the floorpan & the sills, thus exposing the edges of the floorpan pressing. Although the floorpan is made from galvanised steel, as it's pressed from galvanised steel sheet, not galvanised after pressing, the underlying mild steel is exposed at the edges. On mine I could actually peel off large areas of the galvanised coating where the rust had crept in from the edges.
Suspension components are not galvanised, just badly painted.
What had happened with mine was that the underseal had failed at the joint between the floorpan & the sills, thus exposing the edges of the floorpan pressing. Although the floorpan is made from galvanised steel, as it's pressed from galvanised steel sheet, not galvanised after pressing, the underlying mild steel is exposed at the edges. On mine I could actually peel off large areas of the galvanised coating where the rust had crept in from the edges.
Suspension components are not galvanised, just badly painted.
This is the car in question there's a bit of rust showing on the drivers side rear wheel arch to .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302226432500?euid=9ecba2...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302226432500?euid=9ecba2...
kapiteinlangzaam said:
And outwardly (FWIW) that appears to be an honest enough example for 1k.
His text looks a little bit too polished in terms of 'defects arent my problem mate', but otherwise crack on.
Lovely colour, but the lack of Lusso spec would be a downer for me. Leather seats really make the interior special.
Obviously at a grand it's going to be a gamble , and being the buyer it's up to me to ask the right questions and poke and prod the right bits before handing over the cash.His text looks a little bit too polished in terms of 'defects arent my problem mate', but otherwise crack on.
Lovely colour, but the lack of Lusso spec would be a downer for me. Leather seats really make the interior special.
Any other points to look out for without me being totally anal over a £1000 car.
kapiteinlangzaam said:
egor110 said:
kapiteinlangzaam said:
And outwardly (FWIW) that appears to be an honest enough example for 1k.
His text looks a little bit too polished in terms of 'defects arent my problem mate', but otherwise crack on.
Lovely colour, but the lack of Lusso spec would be a downer for me. Leather seats really make the interior special.
Obviously at a grand it's going to be a gamble , and being the buyer it's up to me to ask the right questions and poke and prod the right bits before handing over the cash.His text looks a little bit too polished in terms of 'defects arent my problem mate', but otherwise crack on.
Lovely colour, but the lack of Lusso spec would be a downer for me. Leather seats really make the interior special.
Any other points to look out for without me being totally anal over a £1000 car.
At the end of the day its a 1k/20yr old GTV. Dont expect miracles. As an example, ive spent about 15k euro on mine over the last 11 years and its still a VERY long way from being perfect.
If it starts, stops, turns and is mainly waterproof - id say its worth the money.
Like you say if it starts/stops/turns and works until it's mot in dec i'd be pretty pleased.
I've got a 1996 Spider in bits at the moment and would concur with all of the previous comments, for a 20 year old car they stay fairly rust free.
The problem I've found is that the worst rot is hidden behind plastic wheel arch liners etc, floor plans are very good and the galvanisation seems to work. The rear end of the sills appears to be the usual place, looking at mine it looks as if the sealing jointing between the panels is the root cause. Got a few holes to get welded up but nothing frightening.
Just be warned though the rear suspension is what could damage your wallet severely even doing it yourself, worth a look on Alfa Owner as you'll find everything you need.
The problem I've found is that the worst rot is hidden behind plastic wheel arch liners etc, floor plans are very good and the galvanisation seems to work. The rear end of the sills appears to be the usual place, looking at mine it looks as if the sealing jointing between the panels is the root cause. Got a few holes to get welded up but nothing frightening.
Just be warned though the rear suspension is what could damage your wallet severely even doing it yourself, worth a look on Alfa Owner as you'll find everything you need.
I've messaged him for a bit more info on the cambelt change , he claims the previous owner did it as he's a mechanic at a classic car restoration garage .
Now i'm not million miles away from where the car is and know the 2 classic garages in the area and asked which one he worked at and he wasn't so keen to answer that or if there are any bills for rear suspension bushes.
Alarm bells are ringing especially as he only bought the car last nov which took a bit of hunting to find out.
Now i'm not million miles away from where the car is and know the 2 classic garages in the area and asked which one he worked at and he wasn't so keen to answer that or if there are any bills for rear suspension bushes.
Alarm bells are ringing especially as he only bought the car last nov which took a bit of hunting to find out.
I'm on my eighth GTV/Spider, only lost one to rust.
I know that it had belts 10k ago, when was it, over 3 years and needs doing.
You need to check the rear springpans in the area where the spring sits, they can and do rot.
Does it have a bit of clatter when started, variator will be going, doesn't affect the drive but it's annoying.
My first Alfa was a 2.0 blue gtv, loved it
Do all the usual checks if you go and see it.
I know that it had belts 10k ago, when was it, over 3 years and needs doing.
You need to check the rear springpans in the area where the spring sits, they can and do rot.
Does it have a bit of clatter when started, variator will be going, doesn't affect the drive but it's annoying.
My first Alfa was a 2.0 blue gtv, loved it
Do all the usual checks if you go and see it.
In my recent experience, any GTV advert that mentions 'classic', 'appreciating' or any variation is invariably for a dog of an example.
The buyers guides were written years ago before rust was a problem, lots of them are rotten, I looked at 6 and 5 had significant rust, with 1 absolutely terminal. Naturally the non-rusty one turns out to drink oil like I drink gin and need a rear suspension rebuild (££££££££).
At a thousand quid a GTV is, I fear, a drive-til-it-dies and then scrap it car. But if it's at all rusty, walk away.
The buyers guides were written years ago before rust was a problem, lots of them are rotten, I looked at 6 and 5 had significant rust, with 1 absolutely terminal. Naturally the non-rusty one turns out to drink oil like I drink gin and need a rear suspension rebuild (££££££££).
At a thousand quid a GTV is, I fear, a drive-til-it-dies and then scrap it car. But if it's at all rusty, walk away.
GTV's are normally not too bad for rust. Of course, things like it being stored outside all it's life, underbody damage, jacking point damage etc will increase the risk of rust on cars of this age. Normally it's quite well hidden, so if your getting visible rust advisories it's likely to be a lot worse when stripped down.
I ended up buying the GTV that is in question here for £795 as a daily runner also on lookout for a mint GTV6 that will be kept garaged. Overall this car is abit tatty around the edges in terms of asthetics but drives spot on. Going to get it back to a1 condition inside and out but main money being spent on a gtv6.
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