Front brake juddering.
Discussion
My fairly new Whyte 901 has an issue with juddering from the front brakes when I'm using them relatively gently. The LBS sanded back the pads at the first service (the rears needed replacing at that time) and advised me to rebed them in again but the problem recurred towards the end of that ride. The juddering is so bad it shakes the headset loose over time, and probably accounts for why the rears are overused relatively.
Looking at the brakes it seems to me that the pads sweep the rotor spokes (if that's what they're called) which I suspect is the issue. But what's the fix?
Looking at the brakes it seems to me that the pads sweep the rotor spokes (if that's what they're called) which I suspect is the issue. But what's the fix?
thecremeegg said:
gradeA said:
The correct answer has already been posted - SRAM/Avid brakes need a set of the cup/cone washers between the caliper and adaptor as well as between the caliper and bolt head.
This! Get some Shimano ones instead 
The Rookie said:
The older Avids do need the conical washers, the latest ones do not, maybe they have loused up the build through the transition, you should be able to find out using the manual for the specific set from sram.com
Yep. Found that and just working my way through it. Thanks all (even the partisan nonsense... )Yes, binning the SRAM stuff for Shimano is a great idea, if you're not a fan of modulation and power.
Do this nonsense, it's just not true any more. Yes, Avids were mostly s
te. The newer generations of Level and Guide aren't. I've been impressed with Level, Guide R, and my current Guide RSC. If we're going on past performance, then I'm doing 'yes, definitely get Shimano, on/off switches are great on dirt, and i bloody love their variable bite point technology'
Rolls eyes.
As said, newer stuff doesn't need the conical washers between mount and calliper.
I'd guess at something being loose, or contaminated pads.
Do this nonsense, it's just not true any more. Yes, Avids were mostly s
te. The newer generations of Level and Guide aren't. I've been impressed with Level, Guide R, and my current Guide RSC. If we're going on past performance, then I'm doing 'yes, definitely get Shimano, on/off switches are great on dirt, and i bloody love their variable bite point technology'Rolls eyes.
As said, newer stuff doesn't need the conical washers between mount and calliper.
I'd guess at something being loose, or contaminated pads.
I have exactly the same problem as Bill - SRAM Guides Sept 2016.
I thought I might have messed up the pad material transfer, so attacked the discs with a file, which improved things temporarily, but the problem re-occured.
Interesting info about SRAM dropping the additional set of washers. Thanks for that.
I think shimming the calipers out will be the next thing to try.
I thought I might have messed up the pad material transfer, so attacked the discs with a file, which improved things temporarily, but the problem re-occured.
Interesting info about SRAM dropping the additional set of washers. Thanks for that.
I think shimming the calipers out will be the next thing to try.
You shouldn't need to file a rotor Just clean it with alcohol or IPA.
If you think your pads are contaminated then just buy a fresh set, too many people p*** around wasting time trying to clean dodgy pads.
Then just make especially sure that your caliper is perfectly parallel to the rotor. (loosen screws - pull brake - tighten screws - then check by eye).
If you think your pads are contaminated then just buy a fresh set, too many people p*** around wasting time trying to clean dodgy pads.
Then just make especially sure that your caliper is perfectly parallel to the rotor. (loosen screws - pull brake - tighten screws - then check by eye).
I thought I would update with latest developments for info.
SRAM Guides were still vibrating under braking.
I attended a couple of bike-parks at the end of summer.
The first was a tight downhill flow-trail on wet mud and gravell. Riding this involved lots of repeated braking from medium speeds.At the end of the day, the vibration was pretty much gone.
The subsequent downhill at a different, faster, drier location, involved higher speeds and harder braking. After this event, vibration completely gone.
So I've been riding on and off around here over the last few months and vibration still not returned.
Conclusion ? I'm not sure. My location is completely flat, which means any slope you can find only gives enough room for 1 hard application of the brakes, so I suspect my intial bedding in process couldn't transfer the pad material evenly enough.
Repeated, heavier braking in the mountains seems to have tranfered enough pad material to give an even surface coating, with no more vibrating.
SRAM Guides were still vibrating under braking.
I attended a couple of bike-parks at the end of summer.
The first was a tight downhill flow-trail on wet mud and gravell. Riding this involved lots of repeated braking from medium speeds.At the end of the day, the vibration was pretty much gone.
The subsequent downhill at a different, faster, drier location, involved higher speeds and harder braking. After this event, vibration completely gone.
So I've been riding on and off around here over the last few months and vibration still not returned.
Conclusion ? I'm not sure. My location is completely flat, which means any slope you can find only gives enough room for 1 hard application of the brakes, so I suspect my intial bedding in process couldn't transfer the pad material evenly enough.
Repeated, heavier braking in the mountains seems to have tranfered enough pad material to give an even surface coating, with no more vibrating.
Ha, just noticed I commented on this and now own exactly the same bike as the OP, and suffer from massive brake judder!
It's one of two things imho:
Firstly, the front hub is appallingly badly sealed so any grease you put in lasts about 5 minutes before making a sharp exit. The comes then wear and play develops. I'm servicing and re adjusting on pretty much every other ride at the moment.
Secondly, the Sektors, although not a bad fork per se, are very flexy. Leaning hard on the brakes, even with my borderline famine hit physique, makes them feel like they're about to fold. Never mind what they feel like when you smash then into some rough stuff.
It's one of two things imho:
Firstly, the front hub is appallingly badly sealed so any grease you put in lasts about 5 minutes before making a sharp exit. The comes then wear and play develops. I'm servicing and re adjusting on pretty much every other ride at the moment.
Secondly, the Sektors, although not a bad fork per se, are very flexy. Leaning hard on the brakes, even with my borderline famine hit physique, makes them feel like they're about to fold. Never mind what they feel like when you smash then into some rough stuff.
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