Crap brakes
Crap brakes
Author
Discussion

zippy500

Original Poster:

1,883 posts

288 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
quotequote all
I have standard brakes on my 500. There is plenty of disc and pad, and no air in system. The problem is they dont feel adequate enough to stop the car and when driving a bit fast I allways feel a bit unsure if it will stop in time. As far as im aware the pads are still origial, possibly second set and the car is 7 years old. I was thinking of getting new pads all round in the hope of improving the force. Can pads loose there efficiency over time. I cant really afford a brake/disc upgrade as much as I would like to. Any thoughts. The first inch of travel on the pedal dosent seem to do much at all.

Beast

368 posts

303 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
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Forget new pads - the std brakes are just not really up to the job.

Whole varieties of upgrades are available - check Raven, Peninsular, Tower-View or Zertec for something to suit your budget.

I have Zertec's Brembo's and don't have ANY brake problems any more.

GarryM

1,113 posts

302 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
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The standard brakes are not so bad. Check the disks are wearing evenly and that the pads are making an even contact on both sides (mine were not). Have the callipers overhauled if necessary. Upgrade the pads to EBC Greenstuff or something similar. I have recently done all of the above. You still get that feeling that the first inch of travel doesn't do that much but then when it bites the stopping power is impressive. With progressive braking it stops very efficeintly, if you jump on them it will lock up all of the wheels so I guess they are plenty good enough for road use. Hope this gives you some reassurance.

zippy500

Original Poster:

1,883 posts

288 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
quotequote all
Thanks gary, it does, how much are the green ones, the chap at penninsula mentioned these. Ill inspect a bit further, altough its only done 17000 miles so i cant believe they need overhaul, but you never can tell.

kevinday

13,570 posts

299 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
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If the mileage is that low for a 7 year old car the best cure is to drive it more often. Disks and pads will oxidise if left standing resulting in poor braking performance, it then takes a while to remove the oxidation before the brakes get their 'bite' back. Drive the car at least 2-3 times a week for at least 10 miles!

Also check the operation as previously suggested.

zippy500

Original Poster:

1,883 posts

288 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
quotequote all
I allways drive at least one 50 mile round trip per week to work on the motorway, perhaps more braking is required.

GarryM

1,113 posts

302 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
quotequote all
Greenstuff about £50 from memory but may be wrong. Don't fit to the rear only - front only is OK or all round.

More braking will be required - after c. 300 miles in mine after the new pads they were still not bedded in. Advice obtained here was to give them some abuse and boy did it make a difference. I guess the harder pads take more to bed in and motorway driving just doesn't do it.

My car's only done 15,000 miles - I think its the lack of use that made the overhaul worthwhile.

griff2be

5,103 posts

286 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
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How new is trhe brake fluid? A very cheap brake upgrade is just to change the fluid.

P.S., If using the EasiBleed kit which pressurises the system using an air line from a tyre - don't do what I did: checked kit and system for leaks, filled bottle with new fluid, connected to car, connected air line - brake fluid p1ssing out of the cap at 20 psi - all over the engine!

Turned out the washer had dropped out of the cap when I filled it. Doh!

zippy500

Original Poster:

1,883 posts

288 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
quotequote all
new fluid as of last friday. Ill try to use tyhem a bit more. Then may get new pads, cheers boys

GreenV8S

30,990 posts

303 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
quotequote all
quote:
I have standard brakes on my 500. There is plenty of disc and pad, and no air in system. The problem is they dont feel adequate enough to stop the car and when driving a bit fast I allways feel a bit unsure if it will stop in time. As far as im aware the pads are still origial, possibly second set and the car is 7 years old. I was thinking of getting new pads all round in the hope of improving the force. Can pads loose there efficiency over time. I cant really afford a brake/disc upgrade as much as I would like to. Any thoughts. The first inch of travel on the pedal dosent seem to do much at all.


Sounds a lot like my standard brakes used to feel, when I had knackered fluid and pads in. Flushing with DOT 5.1 fluid and replacing with a good set of fast road pads can make a huge difference to the feel. Braided hoses make a smaller difference. I recommend GreenStuff, although Tarox XF are pretty good too, and I've heared good reports about DS200. Just don't go putting standard road pads in (they won't take the heat) and don't get talked into fitting race pads. A big brake upgrade is probably overkill here unless you do a lot of track work - which doesn't sound like the case here.

Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)

PS Remember, new pads and discs need to be bedded in before they work properly. This is a specific procedure which gradually heats the pads up and wears them in, it is not just a matter of driving the car normally.

>> Edited by GreenV8S on Wednesday 4th September 13:30

trefor

14,705 posts

302 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
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Check the inside of your discs, especially the rear ones. You might find they are corroded and the pad and disc are not making the contact they should be. This will affect the initial bite and feel of the brakes for sure. Lack of frequent use means they don't get scrubbed off enough - happened to me and I do over 7,000 miles a year in mine.

T/.

heliox

450 posts

281 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
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if you have got uneven disks, they can be machined equal on a lathe for not alot of dosh, put new pads in at the same time too.

heliox

griff2be

5,103 posts

286 months

Wednesday 4th September 2002
quotequote all
quote:

PS Remember, new pads and discs need to be bedded in before they work properly. This is a specific procedure which gradually heats the pads up and wears them in, it is not just a matter of driving the car normally.

>> Edited by GreenV8S on Wednesday 4th September 13:30



So you don't think new Mintex pads at 9.30pm on Thursday with Bedford Autodrome at 8.30am on Friday was following the correct bedding in procedure?

Oops!

More seriously, I did suffer from bad brakes in the first 2 warm up laps - the rears were locking up under straight line braking - unevenly, so the back stepped out. I was really quite worried that the car was inherently problematic on a track.

However a couple of slalom runs later the brakes bedded in more and the rest of the trackday was fine.

Bled the brakes again when I got home and there were a few bubbles in there. I'm using AP600 racing fluid and will change it at least once a year.

ginger toss

32 posts

279 months

Thursday 5th September 2002
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I had the same problem on my grif. Have now fitted the basic Tower View front upgrade which consists of 283mm drilled disks, spacers to move the caliper out, mintex 1144 pads (personal preference as I don't like EBC green stuff pads), braided hoses all round and DOT 5.1 fluid. All in this has cost the best part of £400.
I am still bedding them in but even so it is night and day compared with the standard brakes. Will tell you at the end of the month how they fair at Knockhill

budd

407 posts

287 months

Tuesday 10th September 2002
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I've got the same system as Ginger Toss, and agree that the difference is night and day,the only problem I have is brake dust the wheels are always black with dust,EBC pads are much cleaner but wear the discs big time guess I'll stay with Mintex and buy a years supply of wonder wheels.

PS don't be tempted to use Dot 5 fluid as its silicone based and not compatible with std polyglycol fluid,look for Dot5.1 the .1 is very importent try Motul RF600 its well priced with excellent performence.