E60 550 issues
Discussion
I had a 550, I understood the alternator bracket and coolant pipes were sorted in the TU engine when it changed from the 545 to the 550...
The stem seals however are still an issue, and from reports online I can see it's a matter of when, not if.
Just budget for the job, they're great great cars, probably my most favourite I've owned.
The stem seals however are still an issue, and from reports online I can see it's a matter of when, not if.
Just budget for the job, they're great great cars, probably my most favourite I've owned.
Seals can be done for around £1200 or far less diy by either buying or renting the tool. It's a fiddly job and not something that a complete amateur should tackle, but doable if you have the time, patience and an appreciation of what you are doing.
I was very pleased when I did my own, but wouldn't be rushing to do it again unless I picked up a bargain car that needed them doing.
Search n62 valve stem seals on here.
I was very pleased when I did my own, but wouldn't be rushing to do it again unless I picked up a bargain car that needed them doing.
Search n62 valve stem seals on here.
Loving my 550, although I have had to put a new block and pistons in it. Thought it was valve stem oil seals, but it was a score in the bore.
Until my i3 arrives, it gets used for everything, including towing. I managed 15.5mpg when towing. The only issue is that it could do with a bigger fuel tank so I can go further without having to fill up.
Still waiting for the day I get 300 miles out of a tank.
Until my i3 arrives, it gets used for everything, including towing. I managed 15.5mpg when towing. The only issue is that it could do with a bigger fuel tank so I can go further without having to fill up.
Still waiting for the day I get 300 miles out of a tank.
smashie said:
Loving my 550, although I have had to put a new block and pistons in it. Thought it was valve stem oil seals, but it was a score in the bore.
Until my i3 arrives, it gets used for everything, including towing. I managed 15.5mpg when towing. The only issue is that it could do with a bigger fuel tank so I can go further without having to fill up.
Still waiting for the day I get 300 miles out of a tank.
I get close to 500 out of my 750 when doing motor miles. Just looked it up and it's 88litres, which is 19.8 gallons, which is about 26mpg - which is about right - i've had higher if i drive slower. Short journeys around town sees it much lower - 17-18'sUntil my i3 arrives, it gets used for everything, including towing. I managed 15.5mpg when towing. The only issue is that it could do with a bigger fuel tank so I can go further without having to fill up.
Still waiting for the day I get 300 miles out of a tank.
Thanks !
Would it be a deal breaker for you ? He wants 4.5k for it with 100,000 miles on the clock. He is it's second owner and doesn't know if they have been done or not. He does say the 'gasket' has been done - not sure if he means the valve seals or not, he has all the history on the car so when I go to see it I'll examine the lot. He tells me it has been kept well and has a FSH with receipts.
As for signs of failings - white smoke ? I was told to get the engine warmed up and leave it idle before putting a few revs through and then examining for white smoke out the back.
Anything else I should look out for ?
I'm very keen on getting it as it looks fantastic and where I live petrol is cheap so no concerns on the MPG. The alternative is an ex-embassy E-class merc (280) which although a lovely car doesn't come close to the 550
Would it be a deal breaker for you ? He wants 4.5k for it with 100,000 miles on the clock. He is it's second owner and doesn't know if they have been done or not. He does say the 'gasket' has been done - not sure if he means the valve seals or not, he has all the history on the car so when I go to see it I'll examine the lot. He tells me it has been kept well and has a FSH with receipts.
As for signs of failings - white smoke ? I was told to get the engine warmed up and leave it idle before putting a few revs through and then examining for white smoke out the back.
Anything else I should look out for ?
I'm very keen on getting it as it looks fantastic and where I live petrol is cheap so no concerns on the MPG. The alternative is an ex-embassy E-class merc (280) which although a lovely car doesn't come close to the 550
If the seals have been done - you will know, because there will be a large bill! He's probably referring to the rocker or timing cover gaskets.
When i first got my 750 (2005, about 115k miles) it would smoke after a few minutes of idling - I ignored that and carried on using it.
After about 10k miles it would smoke when pulling away after a short stop at the lights or more embarrassingly start stop traffic on the road - i.e. less than a minute of idling.
To test, simply start it up and leave it idling - give it a rev and watch for a cloud of smoke out the back. If you get a repeatable cloud of smoke after a minute or so, then it needs doing - if it's several minutes - then it will need doing, but not immediately.
When i first got my 750 (2005, about 115k miles) it would smoke after a few minutes of idling - I ignored that and carried on using it.
After about 10k miles it would smoke when pulling away after a short stop at the lights or more embarrassingly start stop traffic on the road - i.e. less than a minute of idling.
To test, simply start it up and leave it idling - give it a rev and watch for a cloud of smoke out the back. If you get a repeatable cloud of smoke after a minute or so, then it needs doing - if it's several minutes - then it will need doing, but not immediately.
I had to have the alternator seal done on my 06 550i recently, it was about £500 all in at BMW Hungerford.
The gasket he is referring to may be the cam cover, I'm not sure, but I know mine also need doing soon. That'll be another £600 or so. Tell-tales for mine is a slightly smell of burning oil (presumably its dripping on or near the exhaust).
Any way you look at it, £4.5k is a good price. If it is in good condition and you like it, go for it. But, as with any car, there can always be unexpected bills down the line but I always take the view that I'm not paying £600/month (that I would be for a new car) in repairs for any secondhand car I buy over the few years I typically own one.
The gasket he is referring to may be the cam cover, I'm not sure, but I know mine also need doing soon. That'll be another £600 or so. Tell-tales for mine is a slightly smell of burning oil (presumably its dripping on or near the exhaust).
Any way you look at it, £4.5k is a good price. If it is in good condition and you like it, go for it. But, as with any car, there can always be unexpected bills down the line but I always take the view that I'm not paying £600/month (that I would be for a new car) in repairs for any secondhand car I buy over the few years I typically own one.
drfrank said:
Anything else I should look out for ?
Check the adaptive lights work - if the green LED is flashing that's return to main agent for a wallet thrashing. Ask me how I know...Check the main headlights are dry - if Xennons are fitted any condensation will likely mean that the control module is SNAFU and needs replacing. It's about £350 for the module and the bumper and the wing has to come off to get the headlight out. Ask me how I know...
Check the battery is "current" (sorry) - these like their electricity and don't react well to poor batteries. Although the battery swop is easy they are supposed to be recoded to the car and if not will throw spurious fault codes. Ask me how I know...
Check the tires are in good nick and that the wear is even. Check also that the wheels are solid and there is no play in the control arms and suspension components. If the tracking is out of alignment they will wear on the inside edge rapidly. Ask me how I know...
Check all the internal and external lights work. The centre stop light and door cill lights (if you have them) are sealed for life LED units fed via thin tape like cables bent over the weld seams and prone to wearing through. They are both easy enough DIY replacements but the parts can be on back order from Germany. Ask me how I know...
Look, don't get me wrong, I have a 2004 E63 645i which had 73,000 miles when I got it cheap like yours (10% of the current BMW configurator price) and it's had a few issues, that's all, which is what you would expect of a BMW of that age & mileage. It's just that they're not a £4 grand car by a long way; they need looking after and can throw bigger bills than you expect - I thought the headlight was a blown bulb and was expecting £30 - £50. But it is the best car I have had by a long way, it puts a smile on my face every day and sounds glorious when you drop a cog or two and give it some thrutch through the Hindhead tunnel. Ask me how I know...
Edited by Collectingbrass on Tuesday 2nd May 12:37
Hello fellow 550 enthusiasts.
I have owned a manual 550 saloon (2008) since 2014 and its covered ~100k. Love it, and its generally pretty well behaved however, I think there are a few niggles or points to consider.
It doesnt like irregular use. I had to replace the coded battery after a period of limited driving (and cold weather). I had an "increased battery discharge" warning and then a couple of cold days later it was dead. I guess it’s the cranking wattage that’s means the batteries are quite expensive.
New headlight bulbs were £100 each (though that was at a main dealer)
Sat Nav has a DVD reader which is temperamental on mine. It kills the iDrive and it resets itself after a long period of driving
Petrol filler cap can seize, but there is a manual release in the boot. Mine was broken so it required quite a bit of fiddling and swearing to open. Don't try and lever it open with a knife ;-)
Smooth driving with a manual is quite tricky (perhaps down to the user)
Washers failed in summer due to gunk build up in the washer filter. You can fix this yourself with a screw driver and YouTube.
My wheel bearings are now going at 100k....not sure that is E60 specific but quoted £250 at an independent dealer.
I have owned a manual 550 saloon (2008) since 2014 and its covered ~100k. Love it, and its generally pretty well behaved however, I think there are a few niggles or points to consider.
It doesnt like irregular use. I had to replace the coded battery after a period of limited driving (and cold weather). I had an "increased battery discharge" warning and then a couple of cold days later it was dead. I guess it’s the cranking wattage that’s means the batteries are quite expensive.
New headlight bulbs were £100 each (though that was at a main dealer)
Sat Nav has a DVD reader which is temperamental on mine. It kills the iDrive and it resets itself after a long period of driving
Petrol filler cap can seize, but there is a manual release in the boot. Mine was broken so it required quite a bit of fiddling and swearing to open. Don't try and lever it open with a knife ;-)
Smooth driving with a manual is quite tricky (perhaps down to the user)
Washers failed in summer due to gunk build up in the washer filter. You can fix this yourself with a screw driver and YouTube.
My wheel bearings are now going at 100k....not sure that is E60 specific but quoted £250 at an independent dealer.
RichE60 said:
Hello fellow 550 enthusiasts.
It doesnt like irregular use. I had to replace the coded battery after a period of limited driving (and cold weather). I had an "increased battery discharge" warning and then a couple of cold days later it was dead. I guess it’s the cranking wattage that’s means the batteries are quite expensive.
I dont use mine very often and had a battery drain problem on my E65 750. It turned out to be the comfort access door handle - it was preventing the car from falling asleep. It doesnt like irregular use. I had to replace the coded battery after a period of limited driving (and cold weather). I had an "increased battery discharge" warning and then a couple of cold days later it was dead. I guess it’s the cranking wattage that’s means the batteries are quite expensive.
The car would put itself into a forced sleep once the battery got down to a critical level by isolating major chunks of the car. I think at least a year of this process put an early end to my genuine 90AH battery. I used a discharge tester and it only had about 30ah left in it.
Evidently the comfort access is a common battery drain on the e65's - not sure about the e60's.
I used the GT1 diagnostics and did a power analysis - which pointed to the CAS system, then pinpointed it by pulling fuses out. Only upside was what would of been a £500 fix for a new handle was sorted out for £30 by buying a second hand rear door handle and swapping the electronic guts into the front handle.
drfrank said:
I've heard back from the seller and he says the valve seals have been done. He says the part was very cheap but the labour was extortionate, so it sounds about right ??
I need to check the paperwork I guess and give the garage a call before pulling the trigger on it.
Does sound right - still do the idle for 5 minutes test though I need to check the paperwork I guess and give the garage a call before pulling the trigger on it.
One thing to remember about the E60/61 is that the front structure is aluminium to save weight so check this for any damage, or signs of repairs. The battery has an explosive charge on the positive terminal(yes really!!) so be careful if you need to do a anything to the battery.
if it has the 18 or 19 inch wheels check them for cracks if the runflats are fitted.
I loved mine.
if it has the 18 or 19 inch wheels check them for cracks if the runflats are fitted.
I loved mine.
Thanks for the advice !
I went to see the car and its in really good shape.
There are a couple of issues though...
1) the sunroof has problems closing - as the sunroof returns to its position the flap is catching the glass making it open back up again (presumably a safety feature to stop hands etc getting trapped)
2) The steering wheel is off centre - as in when the wheels are straight the steering wheel is at 1 o'clock
3) There is no spare - if run flats are fitted is there no spare in the boot ?
4) The steering does feel a little heavy but the pump has been replaced and he reckons its normal.
It pulls like a train, gearbox seems fine, interior is pristine as is the bodywork
I have offered 3.5k for it and I'm waiting to hear back.
I went to see the car and its in really good shape.
There are a couple of issues though...
1) the sunroof has problems closing - as the sunroof returns to its position the flap is catching the glass making it open back up again (presumably a safety feature to stop hands etc getting trapped)
2) The steering wheel is off centre - as in when the wheels are straight the steering wheel is at 1 o'clock
3) There is no spare - if run flats are fitted is there no spare in the boot ?
4) The steering does feel a little heavy but the pump has been replaced and he reckons its normal.
It pulls like a train, gearbox seems fine, interior is pristine as is the bodywork
I have offered 3.5k for it and I'm waiting to hear back.
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