Auxilary Belt Change on a K with Apollo Tank
Discussion
So after much searching (well, a bit) I couldn't find a 'how to' on how to change the auxilary belt on a K-series engined car with the Apollo oil pipes feeding through it. Some talk of having to drain oil and disconnect all pipes sounded drastic so I took a pragmatic approach as below. Hopefully this may prove useful to others.
Changing the belt on my car wasn't just as a service item, I was changing the belt from a 5PK738 to a 5PK730 to avoid the alternator being in contact with the near-side chassis rail. There is much information online, often contradictory over which belt is correct. The relatively modest difference between the two (8mm difference) makes all the difference with the position of the alternator as you will see below
Alternator in contact with chassis
Coolant expansion tank needs to be released from the mounting but no need to disconnect any of the hoses, just the one bolt to remove
The auxilary belt is removed by releasing the two mounting bolts on the alternator (15mm) top and bottom and then by turning the adjusting rod (8mm). Access is a little tight so need to feel your way.
Once loose, the belt just lifts off the pulleys. You then need to remove the top hose from the Apollo tank to the rocker cover. No oil dripped out but worth having a rag handy just in case.
The upper hose also needs disconnecting, it's large so an adjustable spanner was used with an additional spanner on the housing to avoid any undue force to the tank itself. Again, no oil leaked out but be ready just in case.
Next bit is like one of those Chinese puzzles, working where the belt needs to go. Cut the cable ties to give a bit more movement on the hoses. With the oil hoses above released it's possible!
The Apollo tank needs to be loosened to allow it to be lifted from the bottom plate and the auxilary belt is fed under and up over the tank. This will make more sense when you are doing it! Some tanks are only attached with cable ties, mine had a large jubilee clip as pictured.
To quote Haynes, refitting of the new belt is the reverse of the removal. Belt is lifted back on to the pulleys and the alternator can be adjusted to provide the right tension. This leaves the alternator in a more comfortable position, maybe only 5mm-8mm of space between it and the chassis but enough clearance to avoid contact.
Just a case to then start the car and check for any oil leaks from the connections that were disconnected.
Hopefully this will be of some help to the next person searching on how to change the auxilary belt with the apollo tank fitted.
AMG
Changing the belt on my car wasn't just as a service item, I was changing the belt from a 5PK738 to a 5PK730 to avoid the alternator being in contact with the near-side chassis rail. There is much information online, often contradictory over which belt is correct. The relatively modest difference between the two (8mm difference) makes all the difference with the position of the alternator as you will see below
Alternator in contact with chassis
Coolant expansion tank needs to be released from the mounting but no need to disconnect any of the hoses, just the one bolt to remove
The auxilary belt is removed by releasing the two mounting bolts on the alternator (15mm) top and bottom and then by turning the adjusting rod (8mm). Access is a little tight so need to feel your way.
Once loose, the belt just lifts off the pulleys. You then need to remove the top hose from the Apollo tank to the rocker cover. No oil dripped out but worth having a rag handy just in case.
The upper hose also needs disconnecting, it's large so an adjustable spanner was used with an additional spanner on the housing to avoid any undue force to the tank itself. Again, no oil leaked out but be ready just in case.
Next bit is like one of those Chinese puzzles, working where the belt needs to go. Cut the cable ties to give a bit more movement on the hoses. With the oil hoses above released it's possible!
The Apollo tank needs to be loosened to allow it to be lifted from the bottom plate and the auxilary belt is fed under and up over the tank. This will make more sense when you are doing it! Some tanks are only attached with cable ties, mine had a large jubilee clip as pictured.
To quote Haynes, refitting of the new belt is the reverse of the removal. Belt is lifted back on to the pulleys and the alternator can be adjusted to provide the right tension. This leaves the alternator in a more comfortable position, maybe only 5mm-8mm of space between it and the chassis but enough clearance to avoid contact.
Just a case to then start the car and check for any oil leaks from the connections that were disconnected.
Hopefully this will be of some help to the next person searching on how to change the auxilary belt with the apollo tank fitted.
AMG
DVandrews said:
While you are at it, slip a *second* new aux belt over t the same time and cable tie it to the Apollo pipework, then when you need to replace again, you can cut off the old belt and simply slip the stored belt into position.
Dave
This sounds a good idea and I had read similar elsewhere. But then you have an 'old' belt that has been heated/cooled with the engine as a replacement. Changing the belt only took about half an hour even with undoing the extra couple of bits, and I work leisurely! Dave
AndyAMG said:
upsidedownmark said:
Very important question - where did you get a 5pk730? The one I ordered arrived today and is a -738.. fuming!
eBay - just do a search for 5pk730. Managed to find a genuine Dayco to clear, £3.34 delivered! Only about £6-£8 from most placesupsidedownmark said:
That's exactly what I did.. only to have a gates 738 turn up. Have complained, but I doubt they'll sort it quickly, and my current belt appears to have become 2x narrow belts, just want to order one fairly promptly. Eurocarparts nearby but the poxy website only works if you give it the right model of car first..
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