My 2000 BMW E46 320ci Cabriolet

[markswebpages]

Thought I'd just start a thread on this, if for no other reason then to remind me of why not to by a car that's got issues.

Issues to be resolved

Leak in inlet/vacuum pipes
Assorted fluid leaks
Indicator stalk intermittent
Boot button not working
Pads and shoes (handbrake hopeless)
Seat sensors intermittent (causing airbag light)
Undertray and fixings missing

So here it is "the problem child" as it's now become known.

IMG_20170426_090500 by Mark Jones, on Flickr

I got this idea in my head about ticking owning a soft top off my list, then like you do I started looking. MX5's where on the list but my wife didn't like the idea of a small car so having an 328i a 3 series cabriolet seemed logical.

I was on a small budget and kept looking but most cheap ones had the dreaded wing rot and I hate bodywork of any description. Then this one popped up virtually on my doorstep.

It was cheap (sub £1000) but had the engine fault light on and was leaking a bit of oil. The seller had apparently lost interest but said he'd had the fault read and it was related to the injectors. It seemed to drive okay and had both wings replaced less than two years ago. But I walked away and forgot about it, then the guy text me with the usual "I need the money for another car" and eventually a price was agreed and now it's my daily.

I borrowed a proper code reader and the codes where for lean running, so I concluded either too much air or not enough fuel. It idled a tiny bit rough and that's when the codes came up again after being cleared.

So first port of call was the fuel filter which also contains a pressure regulator. Changing this didn't help, but what it did reveal was a missing undertray and potentially more than one oil/fluid leak of some description. Nothing catastrophic but small drips that the origins of where difficult to determine.

Then the hot engine smell got significantly worse and a change of cam cover gasket was in order

FB_IMG_1493899609685 by Mark Jones, on Flickr

This has certainly helped with the oil leaks, but more investigation is required.

After a smoke test it became obvious it's the vacuum control valve or the associated pipework that's causing my lean codes, so a kit has been ordered along with vacuum pipes and an inlet manifold gasket. That's the next mini project, I'm not particularly looking forward to having to get the inlet manifold off but it's seems like the best way to gain access to it all.

Oh then yesterday the boot opening button decided it wouldn't work, the remote does though.

I'm not desperately disappointed but it is one of those car where the more I look the more I'm annoyed with myself for not waiting for something better.

Having said all of the above last Sunday was sunny and with the roof down I just couldn't get the grin off my face despite all the problems, so I'll just see how I feel once we've got some of the faults fixed. I am strangely growing attached to it though.

Any help or thoughts with any of the faults greatly appreciated.

[GrantD5]

Once you get the vacuum pipes replaced I think you will be quite well off.

Also keep an eye out for the cooling system, they are shocking and could be one of your leaks.

[helix402]

Inlet manifold gaskets will be fine. Vacuum pipes split and intake hoses. I recommend changing all the vacuum pipes for silicon. I use Samco.
Also change these: (2 I think)



You have the best E46 wheels.

[_Nathan_]

The problem with the boot not opening will be due to severed wires shorting off one another

Open the boot lid and pull back the rubber sleeve in the hinge containing all the wires - and cover split wires with electrical tape

It will be obvious when opened

[helix402]

Or a faulty no plate light/switch unit.

[markswebpages]

Thanks for the interest and the suggestions.

One step ahead of some of the suggestions.

Today this happened
IMG_20170512_125606 by Mark Jones, on Flickr
IMG_20170512_125603 by Mark Jones, on Flickr

Sorry not very good at remembering to take pictures as I go.

So the whole VCV system was replaced along with most of the vacuum pipes, throttle body gasket and inlet manifold gasket. It wasn't the most pleasant job and took me most if the day, but I'm hoping it'll stop that pesky lean code..

I'll take a look at the boot, I'm guessing it'll be the switch as it seems to still open with the remote. I'll let you know once I've had a look.

Its definitely not leaking coolant, but I can't decide if it's oil powder steering fluid or from the transmission cooler. It leaves a few drops from right up front somewhere then stops. I'll figure it out at some point or I'll just fit an undertray and forget about it lol.

[markswebpages]

Not much of an update really, but really enjoying the car (when I'm not finding new faults lol).

So after the vacuum control replacement it was running much better and no more fault codes

However in the true spirit of old cars I then had a new problem. In the pouring rain the week before last I got in the car and start driving, what's that strange sloshing noise? Open boot and carpet is wet but no obvious water in the wheel or battery wells. Nothing else for it as I couldn't get under cover very easily so as the rain eased I retract the roof enough to look under the cover and one side is full of water.

Google tells me the drain is under the bracket and almost impossible to access. Found someone who'd used the old coat hanger method, but of course that will only work if it's blocked at the top. So I sat pondering what to do next and remembered I had some copper brake pipe then I wondered what I could feed through it? Then I stripped some three core cable and it fitted perfectly, so a slight bend got it into the drain and feeding the wire down unblocked it (but that did involve standing in the pouring rain).

Been away for a week and it was my first decent long drive, as I suspected Its a little under powered in some ways so from a standing start it's not too bad but from 20 onwards it feels very slow compared to my old 328i. The engine is very smooth though and I still love the noise that straight six makes.

Enjoyed the sun though and Mrs MWP is beginning to approve to
IMG_20170522_123716_1 by Mark Jones, on Flickr
IMG_20170522_123740 by Mark Jones, on Flickr

Not wanting to go without drama it lost four (two either side at the front) wheel bolts, I only noticed once we'd arrived and to be honest it scared the crap out of me. Definitely where there before we left as I washed the car and remember thinking what pain the wheels where to clean. So Euro Car Parts and a friendly garage later it was sorted, but I will never ever assume wheel bolts done up by anyone but myself are tightened correctly. The others where a mixture of ridiculously tight or not very tight at all and I will check them with my torque wrench for a while afterwards just to be sure.

I noticed the pads where quite low on the front and wanted a chance to take a look anyway so new brake pads on the front. Ironically after the wheel bolt incident both wheels where a bugger to get off.
IMG_20170528_125500 by Mark Jones, on Flickr

Managed to clean the underneath a bit better and hopefully I can find out where the drip is coming from, whatever it is drips a couple of times then stops which is making it tricky to find. I suspect it's the high pressure hose or the cooler for the power steering, but the level doesn't seem to be dropping significantly (then again with a small leak I guess it wouldn't) .

Surprisingly everything seems in good shape with just a tie rod on one side with a tiny amount of play but I'll do that before I get tyres and get the tracking done at the same time.

The next other problem has to be the drivers side window. It's lose enough that it doesn't seal as well as it should. I read up a bit and took the door card off but can't see anything obviously loose, it makes contact with the rubber as it closes at the right points. As far as I can make out it must be the mount that holds the glass that's knackered, so replacement seems to be the solution. However I'm curious to know if there is anything else I can try? Or can I buy a second hand passenger side regulator and swap the mount over (almost all the second hand ones are passenger as I guess the drivers side ones all suffer the same fate with people using the glass instead of the handle)?

Any help appreciated.

Edited by markswebpages on Tuesday 30th May 00:08

[helix402]

The pas leak will be both hoses that connect to the reservoir. New ones are very expensive so I live with the leak! They leak at the joint to the metal section of the pipe.
They also leak at the crimped connector to the reservoir, you can change this for hose clips for a partial fix.
There is a lot of adjustment in the Conv window glass and patience should pay off.

[markswebpages]

helix402 said:

The pas leak will be both hoses that connect to the reservoir. New ones are very expensive so I live with the leak! They leak at the joint to the metal section of the pipe.
They also leak at the crimped connector to the reservoir, you can change this for hose clips for a partial fix.
There is a lot of adjustment in the Conv window glass and patience should pay off.

Yes I guessed it might be, it had a new pump just prior to me buying it so some of the pipes look like they've been replaced (the low pressure feed?). Plan B is to find a replacement under tray and forget about it lol

I've had the door card off and I can't see anything obviously loose, the glass makes contact with the rubber in the top corner on its first click which is how it should be to the best of my knowledge.

There is adjustment but from what I've read it's a proper pain and needs to be done via the outside of the door through a hole that the trim clips into with a special tool?

The play seems to me at least to be in the mounting and I couldn't (or dare not) tighten it any more than I have, hence me considering replacing the whole regulator.

[helix402]

If you do change the regulator I recommend a good used one rather than an aftermarket used one. The non gen ones never work well.

[markswebpages]

helix402 said:

If you do change the regulator I recommend a good used one rather than an aftermarket used one. The non gen ones never work well.

And there in lies the problem, try finding a good used drivers side regulator........

I might have another look and see if I've missed something obvious as I was in a bit of a rush last time, but it definitely seemed to be the calmp itself that had developed the play.