Jacking up V8V - corner by corner, front then rear, or side?
Discussion
Hi,
I'm thinking of doing some DIY brake changes.
I am thinking of doing this wheel by wheel. Jack up, then Axle stand that one corner.
Sound sensible?
If so, i will need to carefully read the many thread on here of where to place the jack, instead of the jacking point.
If I did want to get all four wheels off the ground, or at least two, would you do:
- front of the car first, then rear; or
- one side of the car, then the other side of the car?
Thanks
R
I'm thinking of doing some DIY brake changes.
I am thinking of doing this wheel by wheel. Jack up, then Axle stand that one corner.
Sound sensible?
If so, i will need to carefully read the many thread on here of where to place the jack, instead of the jacking point.
If I did want to get all four wheels off the ground, or at least two, would you do:
- front of the car first, then rear; or
- one side of the car, then the other side of the car?
Thanks
R
You should only jack up or use axle stands in the locations as specified in the owners manual/service book.
However, this is easier said than done (Certainly for the rears) due to limited area specified.
I have read that you should not use the beams running along the side of the car as these have been designed for crash/impact purposes only, not jacking loads (Although I am aware some garages use these with large rubber pads to spread load.....)
For the fronts there is enough room to get a jack underneath and then an axle stand.
For the rears, I used a long profile trolley to use the rear sub assembly vertical strut to lift and then the designated area to put the axle stand.
As regards front/rear side to side, pro's and cons to both. I personally jacked up front or rear, rather than side to side so you can perform the same change of parts (I did the front pads/discs wear sensors and then same to the rears).
Bottom line is, make sure everything is safe and secure before getting under the car. No point saving a few quid doing the jobs yourself if you end up squashed because the car wasn't jacked safely...Obvious, but I worked on the car by myself and always kept my mobile on me just in case.
However, this is easier said than done (Certainly for the rears) due to limited area specified.
I have read that you should not use the beams running along the side of the car as these have been designed for crash/impact purposes only, not jacking loads (Although I am aware some garages use these with large rubber pads to spread load.....)
For the fronts there is enough room to get a jack underneath and then an axle stand.
For the rears, I used a long profile trolley to use the rear sub assembly vertical strut to lift and then the designated area to put the axle stand.
As regards front/rear side to side, pro's and cons to both. I personally jacked up front or rear, rather than side to side so you can perform the same change of parts (I did the front pads/discs wear sensors and then same to the rears).
Bottom line is, make sure everything is safe and secure before getting under the car. No point saving a few quid doing the jobs yourself if you end up squashed because the car wasn't jacked safely...Obvious, but I worked on the car by myself and always kept my mobile on me just in case.
After reading the topic a while ago about an AM that became a write-off following incorrect jacking, you are certainly right Ross to research this matter first.
There have been topics before, some showing the use of cut hockey pucks for jacking protection, but as you say, jacking and then placing an axle stand needs care in knowing where it is safe to place the axle stand.
Yep - definitely don't go for the two inner beams running from front to rear of the car (red arrows) - these are part of the crash structure and can deform if you use them to jack the car. If you were to jack one side up from a central point it would be on the outer most beam that the two proper jacking points are on (green arrows). Also obviously don't jack from the floor anywhere - i.e inboard of the correct jacking points!
The rear arms in the picture below should be on the rear jacking points!

The rear arms in the picture below should be on the rear jacking points!
EEK - not going to ask where you got that pic!
I went in with trepidation but I found it pretty obvious where to jack as there are cutouts on the underside of the sills where the jack should go. I used some hardwood to avoid pressing on the underside of the (plastic) sill and actually had to drive the car onto 10cm thick wood planks so as I could get my trolley jack underneath.
I went in with trepidation but I found it pretty obvious where to jack as there are cutouts on the underside of the sills where the jack should go. I used some hardwood to avoid pressing on the underside of the (plastic) sill and actually had to drive the car onto 10cm thick wood planks so as I could get my trolley jack underneath.
If you look on Redpants website Rich has a video on how to do it side by side
http://www.redpants.lol/
Also a guy on 6speedonline called Messar makes nd sells lovely billet aluminium jack pads for the cars - I have a set and theta re great
Graze
http://www.redpants.lol/
Also a guy on 6speedonline called Messar makes nd sells lovely billet aluminium jack pads for the cars - I have a set and theta re great
Graze
rossyl said:
Hi,
I'm thinking of doing some DIY brake changes.
I am thinking of doing this wheel by wheel. Jack up, then Axle stand that one corner.
Sound sensible?
If so, i will need to carefully read the many thread on here of where to place the jack, instead of the jacking point.
Why use a jack stand if doing one wheel at a time? Use the trolley jack, do brake pads, reinstall wheel, and move to the next corner. You're trying to make it more complicated. I'm thinking of doing some DIY brake changes.
I am thinking of doing this wheel by wheel. Jack up, then Axle stand that one corner.
Sound sensible?
If so, i will need to carefully read the many thread on here of where to place the jack, instead of the jacking point.
DB9VolanteDriver said:
Why use a jack stand if doing one wheel at a time? Use the trolley jack, do brake pads, reinstall wheel, and move to the next corner. You're trying to make it more complicated.
Even if doing it one corner at a time with a trolley jack you need an axle stand under there somewhere as a failsafe. A tutorial video on youtube shows a guy jacking up a corner of the car to change the door strut, he's got his whole head and arms in there with only a trolley jack holding the car up - dangerous stuff. Shrimpvende said:
DB9VolanteDriver said:
Why use a jack stand if doing one wheel at a time? Use the trolley jack, do brake pads, reinstall wheel, and move to the next corner. You're trying to make it more complicated.
Even if doing it one corner at a time with a trolley jack you need an axle stand under there somewhere as a failsafe. A tutorial video on youtube shows a guy jacking up a corner of the car to change the door strut, he's got his whole head and arms in there with only a trolley jack holding the car up - dangerous stuff. DB9VolanteDriver said:
Brakes aren't door struts. You don't need an axle stand unless you've got a POS trolley jack.
I disagree. It does not matter whether your trolley jack is brand new or a pos, never work on your car without a jackstand. I have known new trolley jacks to fail. Trust me on thisembdenb said:
I disagree. It does not matter whether your trolley jack is brand new or a pos, never work on your car without a jackstand. I have known new trolley jacks to fail. Trust me on this
Agree, your putting your limbs are the mercy of a 0.1p rubber seal which is probably the same in a POS jack as a quality one. That and it only takes the other half bringing out a brew to knock the jack :/ embdenb said:
I disagree. It does not matter whether your trolley jack is brand new or a pos, never work on your car without a jackstand. I have known new trolley jacks to fail. Trust me on this
Totally agree I used a brand new trolly Jack ,jacked the car up went to get my axle stand when i came back a few mins later the car was on the floor. Not the Vantage thankfully. scsracing said:
embdenb said:
I disagree. It does not matter whether your trolley jack is brand new or a pos, never work on your car without a jackstand. I have known new trolley jacks to fail. Trust me on this
Agree, your putting your limbs are the mercy of a 0.1p rubber seal which is probably the same in a POS jack as a quality one. That and it only takes the other half bringing out a brew to knock the jack :/ I use two or more axle stands plus the wheel under the car ever since I saved my own life when an XR3i came easing down upon me outside my house many moons ago. The tarmac was giving way under the jack and I used a hammer as a prop for the car to come down upon whilst gently calling anyone around to pull me from under the car by my legs as I was a bit nose to floorpan! OK I didn't call 'gently' I did quite the opposite! Always use belt and double braces guys!
On another note does anyone have a link to the 'proper' ice hockey puck type pads that would fit in the jacking point slots
? My hardwood blocks are OK but wouldn't mind something better as I'm doing all four disks soon and am still a bit jittery after 25 years...
On another note does anyone have a link to the 'proper' ice hockey puck type pads that would fit in the jacking point slots
? My hardwood blocks are OK but wouldn't mind something better as I'm doing all four disks soon and am still a bit jittery after 25 years...
Ken Figenus said:
I use two or more axle stands plus the wheel under the car ever since I saved my own life when an XR3i came easing down upon me outside my house many moons ago. The tarmac was giving way under the jack and I used a hammer as a prop for the car to come down upon whilst gently calling anyone around to pull me from under the car by my legs as I was a bit nose to floorpan! OK I didn't call 'gently' I did quite the opposite! Always use belt and double braces guys!
On another note does anyone have a link to the 'proper' ice hockey puck type pads that would fit in the jacking point slots
? My hardwood blocks are OK but wouldn't mind something better as I'm doing all four disks soon and am still a bit jittery after 25 years...
As someone else mentioned, post this on the 6-speed online forum. A forum member is making them out of aluminum and they look outstanding On another note does anyone have a link to the 'proper' ice hockey puck type pads that would fit in the jacking point slots
? My hardwood blocks are OK but wouldn't mind something better as I'm doing all four disks soon and am still a bit jittery after 25 years...
Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


