Engine start up procedure after winter lay up
Discussion
I have been working on my car for the last 6 months, and the car has not been started in that time.
Just wondering what the advice is for the next start up.
It is a 4.6 Rover V8 in an NGTC.
The engine was running fine in last use.
Will I need to do anything different than a standard start?
I plan on changing the oil and filter but not sure if I should do that before the 1st start up, with cold oil, or warm the engine first and then change?
Is it worth me dropping the sump and cleaning?
I see a few different pieces of advice about turning over with coil disconnected, plugs out, to build up pressure but not sure if required.
Any help appreciated.
Just wondering what the advice is for the next start up.
It is a 4.6 Rover V8 in an NGTC.
The engine was running fine in last use.
Will I need to do anything different than a standard start?
I plan on changing the oil and filter but not sure if I should do that before the 1st start up, with cold oil, or warm the engine first and then change?
Is it worth me dropping the sump and cleaning?
I see a few different pieces of advice about turning over with coil disconnected, plugs out, to build up pressure but not sure if required.
Any help appreciated.
You could pull the plugs, spin it over on the starter to get oil pressure before starting. Depends which oil pump it's using though. If it is the later crank driven one, probably no need to do that, with the older gear driven pump, probably best to try and prime some way.
Other than that, just start it, let it warm up, change the oil. Oil will always run out easier when warm
Other than that, just start it, let it warm up, change the oil. Oil will always run out easier when warm
I always pour a small amount of oil over the valvetrain if the engine has been sitting for this long. Obviously more effective if the rocker cover is removed, but can also be done via the filler.
Valvetrain is the hardest hit when it comes to metal on metal contact on initial start-up and has the highest low speed contact force between components at low engine speed.
Valvetrain is the hardest hit when it comes to metal on metal contact on initial start-up and has the highest low speed contact force between components at low engine speed.
I think it's worth getting it started and running before you drain anything to maximise the chance that the pump will prime OK.
I'd also suggest it's better to get the engine fired up as soon as possible rather than deliberately crank it over without firing. The bearings will still be wet and should be fine for the few seconds it takes for oil to reach them, but cranking the engine over without an oil supply is probably the worst thing you can do to the cam followers and you want to get it up to a fast idle as soon as you can.
I'd also suggest it's better to get the engine fired up as soon as possible rather than deliberately crank it over without firing. The bearings will still be wet and should be fine for the few seconds it takes for oil to reach them, but cranking the engine over without an oil supply is probably the worst thing you can do to the cam followers and you want to get it up to a fast idle as soon as you can.
Ask a rover V8 specialist about this if your in any doubt. What state is the oil in?
If it isn't a bugger to do why not take the rocker covers off and have a quick look inside.
If the oil isn't minging then find the easiest way of cranking it over without it firing and watch the oil pressure come up. I would never start an engine after such a long lay-up without ding this.
If it isn't a bugger to do why not take the rocker covers off and have a quick look inside.
If the oil isn't minging then find the easiest way of cranking it over without it firing and watch the oil pressure come up. I would never start an engine after such a long lay-up without ding this.
Huskyman said:
find the easiest way of cranking it over without it firing and watch the oil pressure come up. I would never start an engine after such a long lay-up without ding this.
I don't understand why you would deliberately crank the engine over without starting it. All the bearings will still be wet after twenty years, never mind a mere six months, and the engine will be perfectly fine if you simply start it like any other day. There's no particular reason to expect significant damage to the cam just from cranking it over for a few minutes but the cam suffers more tip wear at lower speeds and most of all while cranking.ETA: The main issue IMO is going to be flat batteries and/or stale petrol making it reluctant to fire up.
Edited by GreenV8S on Wednesday 31st May 00:34
GreenV8S said:
I don't understand why you would deliberately crank the engine over without starting it. All the bearings will still be wet after twenty years, never mind a mere six months, and the engine will be perfectly fine if you simply start it like any other day. There's no particular reason to expect significant damage to the cam just from cranking it over for a few minutes but the cam suffers more tip wear at lower speeds and most of all while cranking.
ETA: The main issue IMO is going to be flat batteries and/or stale petrol making it reluctant to fire up.
I think I am going to start it up and run as normal before doing the oil change as you suggest.ETA: The main issue IMO is going to be flat batteries and/or stale petrol making it reluctant to fire up.
Edited by GreenV8S on Wednesday 31st May 00:34
The battery is kept on a trickle charge.
I have just fitted a brand new alloy fuel tank and changed both filters in the fuel pump and pressure regulator.
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