Didnt walk away with "my" Cerb today!!
Discussion
Was giving it a test drive and was not entirely happy with it. There was a slight vibrating through the steering wheel at 75-95mph.
The car wasnt juddering as such, but the wheel certainly was. Also Im not entirely sure on this, but also felt like there was some very slight juddering from the rear at times, almost like the drive shaft was maybe vibrating a little?
Anyway, bottom line, wasnt 100% happy with how it was driving. Called around a couple of dealers, they didn't/couldnt offer much advice at all.
The car was inspected by Rob Ingleby 1500 miles ago, just after its last MOT, which initially it failed. Due to...... excessive rack and pinion movement, leaky shock and excessive wheel bearing movement.
So if all of that has been replaced, why still the vibration. Its hard to explain, the car felt planted, but if you looked at the steering wheel, you could see it vibrating, and if you held losely, you could feel it.
I called Rob Ingleby, but phone off at the time. GOing to give him a call, get his take on that car, and maybe get him to take a look again. His report of this car is TOP notch. "One of the best Cerbera's I have had the pleasure to drive" was the closing statement.
So...... this brings me to think, it could be anything from wheel balancing, to tracking (?), setup, any other issue, BUT when I was round initially looking at it, the off side front and rear tyres were fairly flat. As I have said before, it has been sitting a couple of months.
I put air in and checked all the tyres PSI. COULD sitting on deflating tyres have flat spotted them, thus causing this vibration issue?
The car ran wheel, performed wheel, felt very tight. Exhaust rattle was bad at tick over, definitely a mounting issue at the rear.
Oh, and the Service History was missing from all the docs, but this is a legit mistake, as the father is selling for the son who is away (I know as been speaking to him in Oz) and not sure where all the paperwork is.
But today I walked away, once the paperwork is sorted, and the vibration identified then we can revisit. They still have my deposit, and I will be happy with the car once sorted, but whilst it is like it is, 20'odd thousand pounds, I expect a VERY good drive.
Anyone got any experience of this type of issue?
The car wasnt juddering as such, but the wheel certainly was. Also Im not entirely sure on this, but also felt like there was some very slight juddering from the rear at times, almost like the drive shaft was maybe vibrating a little?
Anyway, bottom line, wasnt 100% happy with how it was driving. Called around a couple of dealers, they didn't/couldnt offer much advice at all.
The car was inspected by Rob Ingleby 1500 miles ago, just after its last MOT, which initially it failed. Due to...... excessive rack and pinion movement, leaky shock and excessive wheel bearing movement.
So if all of that has been replaced, why still the vibration. Its hard to explain, the car felt planted, but if you looked at the steering wheel, you could see it vibrating, and if you held losely, you could feel it.
I called Rob Ingleby, but phone off at the time. GOing to give him a call, get his take on that car, and maybe get him to take a look again. His report of this car is TOP notch. "One of the best Cerbera's I have had the pleasure to drive" was the closing statement.
So...... this brings me to think, it could be anything from wheel balancing, to tracking (?), setup, any other issue, BUT when I was round initially looking at it, the off side front and rear tyres were fairly flat. As I have said before, it has been sitting a couple of months.
I put air in and checked all the tyres PSI. COULD sitting on deflating tyres have flat spotted them, thus causing this vibration issue?
The car ran wheel, performed wheel, felt very tight. Exhaust rattle was bad at tick over, definitely a mounting issue at the rear.
Oh, and the Service History was missing from all the docs, but this is a legit mistake, as the father is selling for the son who is away (I know as been speaking to him in Oz) and not sure where all the paperwork is.
But today I walked away, once the paperwork is sorted, and the vibration identified then we can revisit. They still have my deposit, and I will be happy with the car once sorted, but whilst it is like it is, 20'odd thousand pounds, I expect a VERY good drive.
Anyone got any experience of this type of issue?
Vibration could be anything, i'd be more worried that the service history was "mislaid".
If you're selling a £20k car (particularly a cerb) with folks travelling to view, you find the history pretty quick.
Also in 1500 miles a lot can happen with a cerb so don't rely on robs past inspection, get a fresh one done.
If you're selling a £20k car (particularly a cerb) with folks travelling to view, you find the history pretty quick.
Also in 1500 miles a lot can happen with a cerb so don't rely on robs past inspection, get a fresh one done.
Guy has just called me, found the Service history after calling his son.
It had a 98 miler, 972 miles, 5800 miles, 9000 miles, 11900 miles and 14000 miles.
So thats that covered off. All done by main TVR dealer/specialist.
COULD it just be that the tyres were flat spotted?
Would this only happen at certain speeds?
Would I need to replace the tyres, or will the flat spot come out after some use?
It had a 98 miler, 972 miles, 5800 miles, 9000 miles, 11900 miles and 14000 miles.
So thats that covered off. All done by main TVR dealer/specialist.
COULD it just be that the tyres were flat spotted?
Would this only happen at certain speeds?
Would I need to replace the tyres, or will the flat spot come out after some use?
It had a service at 98 miles!!!
It could be flat spot, could be needing the wheels balanced. Was there any juddering on braking?
Was the failed MOT and the good MOT done at the same garage? Just wondering if the wheel bearing was really replaced. There's also a mysterious driveline vibration (propshaft) on some of the earlier cars so I'm told. I thought I had that but it turned out I had spun the tyres on the rim slightly after putting new ones on and put the balancing out.
It could be flat spot, could be needing the wheels balanced. Was there any juddering on braking?
Was the failed MOT and the good MOT done at the same garage? Just wondering if the wheel bearing was really replaced. There's also a mysterious driveline vibration (propshaft) on some of the earlier cars so I'm told. I thought I had that but it turned out I had spun the tyres on the rim slightly after putting new ones on and put the balancing out.
No juddering on braking, or pulling to any side. was tight and straight.
As it was depending on road service, it didnt constantly vibrate. I cant remember what the prop shaft vibration, if any felt like in my Griff.
I need to go drive a couple of Cerbs I think to now compare.
Didnt check if MOT failure was then a pass at same garage. Easy to do tho.
Yeah there are many about, I have also looked at a few mingers for circa'ish what im paying. This one is nice, hence, if its nothing major, I still want it.
Why would a rack and pinion need to be changed at 14000 miles'ish?
As it was depending on road service, it didnt constantly vibrate. I cant remember what the prop shaft vibration, if any felt like in my Griff.
I need to go drive a couple of Cerbs I think to now compare.
Didnt check if MOT failure was then a pass at same garage. Easy to do tho.
Yeah there are many about, I have also looked at a few mingers for circa'ish what im paying. This one is nice, hence, if its nothing major, I still want it.
Why would a rack and pinion need to be changed at 14000 miles'ish?
vinny73 said:I think that this is where the problem lies, if it has been sat on flat tyres then the steel plies and bead which are part of the tyres construction can be deformed with the car's weight sat on them.
BUT when I was round initially looking at it, the off side front and rear tyres were fairly flat. As I have said before, it has been sitting a couple of months.
I put air in and checked all the tyres PSI. COULD sitting on deflating tyres have flat spotted them, thus causing this vibration issue?
When reinflated, the steel never returns completly to it's original shape, and will then cause an inbalance within the tyre.
I had a very nasty juddering at around 70-85mph.
Due to the change of wheel (18's)
Garage balanced them, however one of the front ones is slightly warped so it is not spot on and there is still a little judder around this speed.
seem to think that this can happen with the Spiders - its a possibility..... has it got 18 spiders on?
Due to the change of wheel (18's)
Garage balanced them, however one of the front ones is slightly warped so it is not spot on and there is still a little judder around this speed.
seem to think that this can happen with the Spiders - its a possibility..... has it got 18 spiders on?
No Spiders on this car, totally standard.
If it is possibly the 2 tyres that were flat, then really to fully resolve, its new tyres right? And then it is all round as it was front and rear that was flat.
And thats a serious cost to have to pay as soon as bought, considering I wanted to put a warranty on it, and a few other things done.
If it is possibly the 2 tyres that were flat, then really to fully resolve, its new tyres right? And then it is all round as it was front and rear that was flat.
And thats a serious cost to have to pay as soon as bought, considering I wanted to put a warranty on it, and a few other things done.
vinny73 said:
No Spiders on this car, totally standard.
If it is possibly the 2 tyres that were flat, then really to fully resolve, its new tyres right? And then it is all round as it was front and rear that was flat.
And thats a serious cost to have to pay as soon as bought, considering I wanted to put a warranty on it, and a few other things done.
I'd take it to a wheel balancing place and get them to check the car. They should be able to advise you on the state of the tyres too.
If the car needs new tyres then just negotiate with the seller....
It sounds like you've found yourself a good car, I wouldn't talk yourself out of it over a couple of tyres (chances are they'll only last 6k miles anyhow!)
>> Edited by _DEEJAY_ on Saturday 2nd April 19:55
I think yuo're being too picky, and will probably not keep a TVR for very long .. if the car was ok in every other respect you should have bought it.
all TVRs have problems of one sort or another .. I've seen many cerberas labelled as *the best in the country* or *no faults at all on this car, massive history to prove money spent* and it's all complete bollox.
You'll never get a cerbera perfect .. accept that and go make them a sensible offer
or go buy a Beemer.
all TVRs have problems of one sort or another .. I've seen many cerberas labelled as *the best in the country* or *no faults at all on this car, massive history to prove money spent* and it's all complete bollox.
You'll never get a cerbera perfect .. accept that and go make them a sensible offer
or go buy a Beemer.No Joo, I dont think Im being too picky at all about a steering wheel that I actually cannot focus on between 80-95mph. (I've just got up, and am quite happy I havent just driven away in something I am not 110% happy with) If there is an issue, we need to adjust the price accordingly, in order to complete the sale and so I can put it in to get sorted.
As for length of ownership..... well, my last one lasted 3 years with me, circa, so is that a case of someone who "won't keep a tvr too long"? ;-)
>> Edited by Vinny73 on Sunday 3rd April 00:01
>> Edited by Vinny73 on Sunday 3rd April 10:37
As for length of ownership..... well, my last one lasted 3 years with me, circa, so is that a case of someone who "won't keep a tvr too long"? ;-)
>> Edited by Vinny73 on Sunday 3rd April 00:01
>> Edited by Vinny73 on Sunday 3rd April 10:37
Vinny73 said:
No Joo, I dont think Im being too picky at all about a steering wheel that I actually cannot focus on between 80-95mph. (I've just got up, and am quite happy I havent just driven away in something I am not 110% happy with) If there is an issue, we need to adjust the price accordingly, in order to complete the sale and so I can put it in to get sorted.
As for length of ownership..... well, my last one lasted 3 years with me, circa, so is that a case of someone who "won't keep a tvr too long"? ;-)
I was thinking Joo was right, but if you have had a Cerb for three years before then I’d guess you’d know what you’re looking for.
I have to say
for having the guts to walk away from a car you liked. We bought the first one we looked at, which turned out ok, but then I like fixing things! The steering was very vague on ours when we got it, like needing two hands on the wheel to keep it in a straight line, thought “they all did that” A full wheel alignment totally cured it though, can go side ways one handed now.
I wouldn’t bother with a warranty they never fully pay for anything, just put the money in a high interest account & keep for emergencies.
Luckyone said:
Vinny73 said:
No Joo, I dont think Im being too picky at all about a steering wheel that I actually cannot focus on between 80-95mph. (I've just got up, and am quite happy I havent just driven away in something I am not 110% happy with) If there is an issue, we need to adjust the price accordingly, in order to complete the sale and so I can put it in to get sorted.
As for length of ownership..... well, my last one lasted 3 years with me, circa, so is that a case of someone who "won't keep a tvr too long"? ;-)
I was thinking Joo was right, but if you have had a Cerb for three years before then I’d guess you’d know what you’re looking for.
I have to sayfor having the guts to walk away from a car you liked. We bought the first one we looked at, which turned out ok, but then I like fixing things!
The steering was very vague on ours when we got it, like needing two hands on the wheel to keep it in a straight line, thought “they all did that” A full wheel alignment totally cured it though, can go side ways one handed now.![]()
I wouldn’t bother with a warranty they never fully pay for anything, just put the money in a high interest account & keep for emergencies.
Oh, sorry just re-read your org msg, I think you were saying your steering wheel that you can’t actually cannot focus on would be down to the vibrations. Whoops!
That being the case you could stick some different wheels on & try it with them, We have some spare 17” RLs you could borrow if you like.
(Just not round the time of the Snetterton track day…
Yes, the steering wheel ;-) lol.
My concern is the cost just to stop that vibration. If tyres, surely it will mean replacing all round, as it was front and rear flat. Big'ish money.
If its not the tyres, and not just a case of balancing, it could be one of many problems I suspect and getting to the bottom of it could cost serious money. Replacing this that and everything else and it having no effect.
My Frontera does exactly the same at about 80-85mph and it p***** me off no end. So to spend that sort of cash on a Cerb and have the same problem that I loath on my day to day car, id get frustrated pretty quick if it wasnt a simple fix.
Thanks for the offer on borrowing the wheels. If the tyre condition is different, as in wear on yours to whats on the car, will it actually help to try another 2 wheels? Or would I have to replace all for the test?
I want to put 18" spiders on a Cerb anyway, but if its not tyres/wheels, then £1500 on spiders, and then a fix on top, puts me well into getting a cracking one from a dealer......
My concern is the cost just to stop that vibration. If tyres, surely it will mean replacing all round, as it was front and rear flat. Big'ish money.
If its not the tyres, and not just a case of balancing, it could be one of many problems I suspect and getting to the bottom of it could cost serious money. Replacing this that and everything else and it having no effect.
My Frontera does exactly the same at about 80-85mph and it p***** me off no end. So to spend that sort of cash on a Cerb and have the same problem that I loath on my day to day car, id get frustrated pretty quick if it wasnt a simple fix.
Thanks for the offer on borrowing the wheels. If the tyre condition is different, as in wear on yours to whats on the car, will it actually help to try another 2 wheels? Or would I have to replace all for the test?
I want to put 18" spiders on a Cerb anyway, but if its not tyres/wheels, then £1500 on spiders, and then a fix on top, puts me well into getting a cracking one from a dealer......
I'm not sure Joolz was overly harsh. I would suggest you're being more restrained than most TVR buyers.
If low cost (or even predictable cost) motoring is what you're after the Cerb is not the car for you (even in TVR terms). It's a different proposition to a Griff altogether.
If you do want a Cerb but want to reduce the risk of big bills straight away I'd seriously consider buying from a dealer. As you say, the cost difference is not massive.
Failing that, get the car inspected again by someone you trust and bite the bullet!
If it were me, I'd discuss all this with the seller. If I were to guess, I'd say it would be either:
1) The tyres (unlikely IMO)
2) A buckled wheel (not likely with those wheels)
3) Balancing/tracking (likely)
4) Some other suspension/steering component (likely)
As they've found the history I'd make sure the work that was required to pass the MOT had been completed.
If it has then get Rob/James/A deaker to inspect it....
edited to add: And if you're going for 18" spiders, I've got a new tyre in my garage which you can have to save 1/4 of the tyre cost
>> Edited by _Deejay_ on Sunday 3rd April 16:19
>> Edited by _Deejay_ on Sunday 3rd April 16:20
If low cost (or even predictable cost) motoring is what you're after the Cerb is not the car for you (even in TVR terms). It's a different proposition to a Griff altogether.
If you do want a Cerb but want to reduce the risk of big bills straight away I'd seriously consider buying from a dealer. As you say, the cost difference is not massive.
Failing that, get the car inspected again by someone you trust and bite the bullet!
If it were me, I'd discuss all this with the seller. If I were to guess, I'd say it would be either:
1) The tyres (unlikely IMO)
2) A buckled wheel (not likely with those wheels)
3) Balancing/tracking (likely)
4) Some other suspension/steering component (likely)
As they've found the history I'd make sure the work that was required to pass the MOT had been completed.
If it has then get Rob/James/A deaker to inspect it....
edited to add: And if you're going for 18" spiders, I've got a new tyre in my garage which you can have to save 1/4 of the tyre cost
>> Edited by _Deejay_ on Sunday 3rd April 16:19
>> Edited by _Deejay_ on Sunday 3rd April 16:20
vinny73 said:
Yes, the steering wheel ;-) lol.
My concern is the cost just to stop that vibration. If tyres, surely it will mean replacing all round, as it was front and rear flat. Big'ish money.
If its not the tyres, and not just a case of balancing, it could be one of many problems I suspect and getting to the bottom of it could cost serious money. Replacing this that and everything else and it having no effect.
My Frontera does exactly the same at about 80-85mph and it p***** me off no end. So to spend that sort of cash on a Cerb and have the same problem that I loath on my day to day car, id get frustrated pretty quick if it wasnt a simple fix.
Thanks for the offer on borrowing the wheels. If the tyre condition is different, as in wear on yours to whats on the car, will it actually help to try another 2 wheels? Or would I have to replace all for the test?
I want to put 18" spiders on a Cerb anyway, but if its not tyres/wheels, then £1500 on spiders, and then a fix on top, puts me well into getting a cracking one from a dealer......
If the two are both fronts or rears then two will do, but if they were both one side you'd need 4 really.
Only problem is that the reason we got 18s was the 17s became porous & the front tyre kept going down, meaning it may have a slight flat spot as well
The other problem you may have is that could be the reason for ‘your’ car having flats as well. TVR did do us a bit of a deal on the new 18s they were around £1100. But as you say that has to be taken into account.
If you really want 18s you may be better off looking for a car with them on, lots have now.
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