Who's built their own wheel?
Discussion
Just wondering what experiences people might have had of this. I want to swap my rims front and rear as the brake track on the front is getting very worn down and the back has loads of life in it. I've been happy truing up my wheels when they've needed it over the years, but have never attempted a whole build, although in this case i'd simply be copying what was already done which takes some of the complexity away.
Is it a stupid idea?
Is it a stupid idea?
I've built one set, mountain bike rims that are still completely true and have been great. It's not that difficult, just takes a bit of time and you'll need a good guide to follow so you're doing it right.
But I wouldn't take your rear wheel to bits, rims are cheap, replace the front rim only. What you're proposing is twice the work, but also still leaves you with a worn rim that will probably need replacing eventually anyway.
But I wouldn't take your rear wheel to bits, rims are cheap, replace the front rim only. What you're proposing is twice the work, but also still leaves you with a worn rim that will probably need replacing eventually anyway.
What wheels are they?
It's likely the spoke pattern isn't the same front to rear, you'd normally find 20f/24r or 24f/28r, so wheelsets are built the same, normally 28/28 or 32/32. Some wheelsets like Campag and Fulcrum are 16f/21r.
If they are factory wheels then it's likely the rim cost will be expensive, i.e. replacing a Shimano 6800 rim is ~ £90, if they are a hand built on something like an Open Pro then you're looking at ~ £40 for a rim.
If you change the rim type you may need new spokes too.
The above will determine what your options are.
It's likely the spoke pattern isn't the same front to rear, you'd normally find 20f/24r or 24f/28r, so wheelsets are built the same, normally 28/28 or 32/32. Some wheelsets like Campag and Fulcrum are 16f/21r.
If they are factory wheels then it's likely the rim cost will be expensive, i.e. replacing a Shimano 6800 rim is ~ £90, if they are a hand built on something like an Open Pro then you're looking at ~ £40 for a rim.
If you change the rim type you may need new spokes too.
The above will determine what your options are.
paulrockliffe said:
I've built one set, mountain bike rims that are still completely true and have been great. It's not that difficult, just takes a bit of time and you'll need a good guide to follow so you're doing it right.
But I wouldn't take your rear wheel to bits, rims are cheap, replace the front rim only. What you're proposing is twice the work, but also still leaves you with a worn rim that will probably need replacing eventually anyway.
In this case the rims are ENVE 65's, hence why I'm keen to maximise their life But I wouldn't take your rear wheel to bits, rims are cheap, replace the front rim only. What you're proposing is twice the work, but also still leaves you with a worn rim that will probably need replacing eventually anyway.

Matt_N said:
What wheels are they?
It's likely the spoke pattern isn't the same front to rear, you'd normally find 20f/24r or 24f/28r, so wheelsets are built the same, normally 28/28 or 32/32. Some wheelsets like Campag and Fulcrum are 16f/21r.
If they are factory wheels then it's likely the rim cost will be expensive, i.e. replacing a Shimano 6800 rim is ~ £90, if they are a hand built on something like an Open Pro then you're looking at ~ £40 for a rim.
If you change the rim type you may need new spokes too.
The above will determine what your options are.
Ah it seems you're right - it's 20 on the front and 24 on the rear. My grand plan is not going to work it seems!It's likely the spoke pattern isn't the same front to rear, you'd normally find 20f/24r or 24f/28r, so wheelsets are built the same, normally 28/28 or 32/32. Some wheelsets like Campag and Fulcrum are 16f/21r.
If they are factory wheels then it's likely the rim cost will be expensive, i.e. replacing a Shimano 6800 rim is ~ £90, if they are a hand built on something like an Open Pro then you're looking at ~ £40 for a rim.
If you change the rim type you may need new spokes too.
The above will determine what your options are.
Matt_N said:
BMWBen said:
In this case the rims are ENVE 65's, hence why I'm keen to maximise their life 
Ahh, you're trying to eek out some more from those old worn wheels! - I remember your other thread now.

You could look to Farsports or Lightbicycle for a 20h carbon rim, prob be 60mm though.

BMWBen said:
Yeah that's the one! I hate the idea of throwing away that much rim when it's only the front that's worn... But then I don't like mistmatching ones either 
Even if/when the brake tracks are completely gone, don't throw them away. They could be re-laced onto disc hubs by an impoverished pizza-cutter rider such as myself. We should talk...
edit ignore that, the 20H front prob wouldn't work too well with discs

Edited by SixPotBelly on Monday 5th June 12:52
I personally wouldn't start my wheelbuilding career on a carbon rim, as I'd not want to mess up the tension on them if at all possible.
I've built a few MTB wheels, mainly 29ers with a variety of rims and hubs - but all standard 3 cross. No disasters to speak of, just a couple of spokes loosening on one but I suspect that was because of the impacts it was taking in use. A quick tension back up, and all was well.
The Sheldon Brown guide is fantastic.
I've built a few MTB wheels, mainly 29ers with a variety of rims and hubs - but all standard 3 cross. No disasters to speak of, just a couple of spokes loosening on one but I suspect that was because of the impacts it was taking in use. A quick tension back up, and all was well.
The Sheldon Brown guide is fantastic.
I built an Alfine 8speed hub on to an Easton ARC27 29er rim today, was easy using a park tool tension gauge and the frame as a truing stand. Took me 3 hours start to finish including getting a tubeless tyre mounted up. Only my 2nd attempt ever.
I used this guide :-
https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threa...
I used this guide :-
https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threa...
Edited by Herman Toothrot on Monday 5th June 23:07
hman said:
My local bike shop charged me £40 to build me a wheel - including new spokes - same day!!!
That's a bargain, my local shops joke quote was the reason I did mine myself. They were talking £80 - £90 excluding parts, rim swap only they estimated a £130 bill "because you can't re-use spokes" 🙄. Having now had the experience of doing it myself I'd say for anyone with all the proper tools and a bit of experience a wheel builds a 1.5hr job max.A rim swap is relatively straightforward, I’ve done loads on MTB and road (though not sure I’d want to touch a deep dish carbon wheel). Easiest method is to tape the new rim to the old and undo/transfer the spokes 1 at a time across. This gets it pretty much in line straight off and then its fine tuning the true – an old pair of forks with taped on central guides helps here as well, it’s a little harder with the rear wheel due to the dish required but not rocket science.
Zippee said:
A rim swap is relatively straightforward, I’ve done loads on MTB and road (though not sure I’d want to touch a deep dish carbon wheel). Easiest method is to tape the new rim to the old and undo/transfer the spokes 1 at a time across. This gets it pretty much in line straight off and then its fine tuning the true – an old pair of forks with taped on central guides helps here as well, it’s a little harder with the rear wheel due to the dish required but not rocket science.
That's a pretty neat idea 
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