Honda Integra DC5
Discussion
New project time – Honda Integra DC5
Will keep this one short and sweet: Broke and sold the previous project; Supercharged M62 K20 Honda Prelude and went and bought a Porsche Cayman 3.4. Great car, looked fantastic in black lowered on Carrera alloys, unfortunately the nagging at the back of my mind with issues of score bore and the cost of rebuilding the engine eventually got the better of me and I shifted the car on. Loved the car but did feel the ratio’s we’re too long, it was crying out for more power and slightly lower top speed in each gear. Still, wouldn’t mind another Porsche sometime in the future.
Went without a second car for a while but decided that was boring and I needed something to tinker with!
I considered a number of cars but ended up back with Honda, the K20 engine coupled with the 6 speed gbox make for an excellent combination, slap on an induction kit and the noise is immensely addictive! I looked into doing another K20 swap into an older Honda chassis but tbh I am lacking the time and so decided to get something that already had the best the K20 had to offer!
So here we are, I picked up another DC5 early 2017 with a view to subtly modify it for a better power/weight ratio but keep the appearance stock.
Current mods for weight reduction and slightly more power:
AC Delete
Electric PS conversion from civic
Spoon 5.3 FD
TSX 6th Gear
4-2-1 Long Tube Header
RBC Inlet Manifold
3” short ram intake
Injector Dynamics ID725’s
K-Pro
Odyssey PC680 battery
I’m aiming for around 50kg weight reduction and 240hp, this should give me roughly 220bhp/ton.
Previous owners had fitted a number of dress up parts that I didn’t intend to keep, the more I took off the more I found how manky everything was underneath…and so clearly we needed to sort this out
Only shot I have of the car prior to some TLC:
Started to take some things apart:
Ah, looking better!
This now leads us up to what the car looks like currently. Now the fun part begins!
Interior, pretty stock. Designed and 3D printed an vent gauge holder to keep an eye on A/F ratios. Seats are really good condition with minimal bolster wear.
Car as it stands:
Will keep this one short and sweet: Broke and sold the previous project; Supercharged M62 K20 Honda Prelude and went and bought a Porsche Cayman 3.4. Great car, looked fantastic in black lowered on Carrera alloys, unfortunately the nagging at the back of my mind with issues of score bore and the cost of rebuilding the engine eventually got the better of me and I shifted the car on. Loved the car but did feel the ratio’s we’re too long, it was crying out for more power and slightly lower top speed in each gear. Still, wouldn’t mind another Porsche sometime in the future.
Went without a second car for a while but decided that was boring and I needed something to tinker with!
I considered a number of cars but ended up back with Honda, the K20 engine coupled with the 6 speed gbox make for an excellent combination, slap on an induction kit and the noise is immensely addictive! I looked into doing another K20 swap into an older Honda chassis but tbh I am lacking the time and so decided to get something that already had the best the K20 had to offer!
So here we are, I picked up another DC5 early 2017 with a view to subtly modify it for a better power/weight ratio but keep the appearance stock.
Current mods for weight reduction and slightly more power:
AC Delete
Electric PS conversion from civic
Spoon 5.3 FD
TSX 6th Gear
4-2-1 Long Tube Header
RBC Inlet Manifold
3” short ram intake
Injector Dynamics ID725’s
K-Pro
Odyssey PC680 battery
I’m aiming for around 50kg weight reduction and 240hp, this should give me roughly 220bhp/ton.
Previous owners had fitted a number of dress up parts that I didn’t intend to keep, the more I took off the more I found how manky everything was underneath…and so clearly we needed to sort this out
Only shot I have of the car prior to some TLC:
Started to take some things apart:
Ah, looking better!
This now leads us up to what the car looks like currently. Now the fun part begins!
Interior, pretty stock. Designed and 3D printed an vent gauge holder to keep an eye on A/F ratios. Seats are really good condition with minimal bolster wear.
Car as it stands:
Edited by Mudgey on Saturday 1st July 21:27
Hah, I thought mentioning going to EPS would garner a few comments!
A couple of reasons really, I didn't notice a huge difference between the CTR and the DC5 when I drove both models, plus I gain a little weight reduction and a cleaner looking engine bay by swapping it over.
On another note I am currently struggling to find somebody who can supply 'Black Chrome' paint, does anybody know who supplies or where I could find this?
A couple of reasons really, I didn't notice a huge difference between the CTR and the DC5 when I drove both models, plus I gain a little weight reduction and a cleaner looking engine bay by swapping it over.
On another note I am currently struggling to find somebody who can supply 'Black Chrome' paint, does anybody know who supplies or where I could find this?
Edited by Mudgey on Tuesday 4th July 19:58
Funny you should say that. The Mrs had a DC5 for 8 years and I had a JDM EP3 for a year recently. I didn't really notice that much difference as far as the steering goes and I can't help but think the whole 'steering feel' thing is over exaggerated with these cars.
I thought the EP3 was more fun quite frankly, so it'll be interesting to see how you get on with the conversion.
I thought the EP3 was more fun quite frankly, so it'll be interesting to see how you get on with the conversion.
Update time yea! Not a huge step forward but we are finally at the stage where parts are going back together, deffo the most fun part!
Ok, so the subframe, ARB, strut braces and various brackets have been shot blast, zinc plated and powder coated and am very pleased how those have turned out.
I have started cleaning the engine but am really stuck on how I should finish the exposed aluminium of the engine block and gearbox, any ideas? They we're so grubby that I have had to use quite an invasive nylon wire brush which has left the surface marked. I really like the look of OEM bare metal finish but this won't be achievable without some form of media blasting which will be too much hassle. I am not a huge fan of silver paint either. What else should I consider?
Ok, so the subframe, ARB, strut braces and various brackets have been shot blast, zinc plated and powder coated and am very pleased how those have turned out.
I have started cleaning the engine but am really stuck on how I should finish the exposed aluminium of the engine block and gearbox, any ideas? They we're so grubby that I have had to use quite an invasive nylon wire brush which has left the surface marked. I really like the look of OEM bare metal finish but this won't be achievable without some form of media blasting which will be too much hassle. I am not a huge fan of silver paint either. What else should I consider?
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 4th August 16:57
Update:
So it’s been a not so busy few weeks, lots going on at work so not been able to spend as much time as I want on the car as I would have liked!
I have been collecting a few parts and started getting some of it together.
Spent a pretty penny on this lot:
• Engine Oil
• Gbox Oil
• Filter
• Filter Removal tool
• Timing Chain (I checked the original and it’s stretched about half a tooth).
• Chain tensioner
• Guides
• Camshaft Timing Pins
• HEL Brake Lines
• Hondabond
• Wheel Bearings (turns out I got sent the wrong bearings when we came to fit them, doh!).
Here are some other goodies I bought months ago:
• RBC intake (shaved)
• Injector Dynamics ID750’s
• RBC Throttle Body Adapter
• Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail
• Hybrid Racing Pressure Gauge
• Tegiwa Rack Raiser
• Tegiwa Steering Arms
• K-Tuned Alternator Relocation Kit
I’m not one to bad mouth companies but I have had my fair share of bad experiences with K-Tuned’s products and customer service over the years, however I will say that this relocate kit looks good and from my initial experience I would recommend it if you’re looking to relocate your alternator and save a bit of weight in the process.
Stripping the original chain, tensioner and guides from the engine:
I’ve been putting this off for way too long but finally made a start on painting the engine:
New parts went on without a hitch:
Timing chain cover all masked and painted, you can also see my billet engine mount I am working on, currently awaiting this back from anodising. Managed to save 610g over the original, every little helps!
Starting to make good progress with the engine. New water pump fitted. Got the water outlet for the throttle body cut off and welded up, and painted. Water pump housing honda-bonded in place, thermostat housing fitted and heater hose fully installed:
Alternator reconditioned, tested and new pulley fitted:
Uprights back from the powdercoaters, new bearings fitted and test fitted onto the car, a few things to finish off yet before the suspension can be fully bolted in place:
That's pretty much it for now, I am awaiting some more new bolts to arrive and will hopefully have the engine fully painted later this week.
So it’s been a not so busy few weeks, lots going on at work so not been able to spend as much time as I want on the car as I would have liked!
I have been collecting a few parts and started getting some of it together.
Spent a pretty penny on this lot:
• Engine Oil
• Gbox Oil
• Filter
• Filter Removal tool
• Timing Chain (I checked the original and it’s stretched about half a tooth).
• Chain tensioner
• Guides
• Camshaft Timing Pins
• HEL Brake Lines
• Hondabond
• Wheel Bearings (turns out I got sent the wrong bearings when we came to fit them, doh!).
Here are some other goodies I bought months ago:
• RBC intake (shaved)
• Injector Dynamics ID750’s
• RBC Throttle Body Adapter
• Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail
• Hybrid Racing Pressure Gauge
• Tegiwa Rack Raiser
• Tegiwa Steering Arms
• K-Tuned Alternator Relocation Kit
I’m not one to bad mouth companies but I have had my fair share of bad experiences with K-Tuned’s products and customer service over the years, however I will say that this relocate kit looks good and from my initial experience I would recommend it if you’re looking to relocate your alternator and save a bit of weight in the process.
Stripping the original chain, tensioner and guides from the engine:
I’ve been putting this off for way too long but finally made a start on painting the engine:
New parts went on without a hitch:
Timing chain cover all masked and painted, you can also see my billet engine mount I am working on, currently awaiting this back from anodising. Managed to save 610g over the original, every little helps!
Starting to make good progress with the engine. New water pump fitted. Got the water outlet for the throttle body cut off and welded up, and painted. Water pump housing honda-bonded in place, thermostat housing fitted and heater hose fully installed:
Alternator reconditioned, tested and new pulley fitted:
Uprights back from the powdercoaters, new bearings fitted and test fitted onto the car, a few things to finish off yet before the suspension can be fully bolted in place:
That's pretty much it for now, I am awaiting some more new bolts to arrive and will hopefully have the engine fully painted later this week.
Edited by Mudgey on Monday 9th October 08:29
Edited by Mudgey on Monday 9th October 08:31
Just collected some anodising for work today, one of the items is my prototype billet timing chain cover engine mount, it saves a whopping 610g over the original cast piece. The mount fits perfectly and looks great against the silver timing chain cover. The titanium bolts offer a further weight saving over the original bolts. Currently working on drawing up the other part of this mount that bolts to the engine mount doughnut.
Butter Face said:
Beautiful work mate, love that engine mount a lot!
Why have you done the alternator relocate? I suppose as you're using the EPAS now, you don't need the pump and have gone for the water pump replacement also?
Cheers dude, half the fun is designing new parts and putting my own mark on it!Why have you done the alternator relocate? I suppose as you're using the EPAS now, you don't need the pump and have gone for the water pump replacement also?
I wanted to get rid of the OEM tensioner, Hydraulic PS pump and then shave the top & front of the water pump housing. This saves a good chunk of weight and makes for a much cleaner engine bay. The relocate kit allows me to run a manual tensioner.
I am aiming for a weight saving of 50kg off the original car. The header alone counts for 8kg over the OEM unit.
Made some more progress today, woot woot!
New springs finally turned up during the week, bolts for the top mounts and Tegiwa rack raiser arrived also.
Trial fitted my OEM wheel refurbed by Royal Steering Wheels, the quality is excellent and the extra thickness makes the wheel feel great in your hands. They were really quick and I would recommend their work to anybody!
Got the new springs fitted to the shocks and then the shock bolted to the upright and put back on the car. The underside was an absolute state so I am well pleased how this has turned out!
Had a batch of AC block off plates made, they have a rubber o-ring to seal against the bulkhead, this can be taken off should I wish to fit the AC back at a later date. I had this one painted to match the body colour.
Tegiwa Rack Raiser fitted and torqued up, new bolts really set this piece off. Haven't fitted the locking tabs just yet.
Engine bay is coming together slowly. ABS lines were a right PITA as even though I took pictures it was hard to see which way around they went back! Need to get this fully bolted up to make way for the engine soon
ID 750's, Hybrid Racing fuel rail, shaved & painted RBC all installed and bolted up to the head with Ti hardware.
Hybrid Racing fuel rail installed with Titanium fasteners, these bolts are great, they don't corrode and are lighter than OEM. When your used to the weight of standard steel bolts its crazy how light these bolts feel, especially when you pick up M10 and up.
Took some more shots of my custom engine mount fitted with OEM bolts:
Engine as it stands at the moment, currently awaiting my rocker and spark plug cover back from Spooner Restorations, cannot wait to get the engine buttoned up and ready to go in.
I've been putting this off but I really need sit down next and work out the wiring for the EPS and make a custom bracket to mount my Odyssey PC680 battery. I actually need to think about this next part rather than the easy cleaning and bolting parts together!
New springs finally turned up during the week, bolts for the top mounts and Tegiwa rack raiser arrived also.
Trial fitted my OEM wheel refurbed by Royal Steering Wheels, the quality is excellent and the extra thickness makes the wheel feel great in your hands. They were really quick and I would recommend their work to anybody!
Got the new springs fitted to the shocks and then the shock bolted to the upright and put back on the car. The underside was an absolute state so I am well pleased how this has turned out!
Had a batch of AC block off plates made, they have a rubber o-ring to seal against the bulkhead, this can be taken off should I wish to fit the AC back at a later date. I had this one painted to match the body colour.
Tegiwa Rack Raiser fitted and torqued up, new bolts really set this piece off. Haven't fitted the locking tabs just yet.
Engine bay is coming together slowly. ABS lines were a right PITA as even though I took pictures it was hard to see which way around they went back! Need to get this fully bolted up to make way for the engine soon
ID 750's, Hybrid Racing fuel rail, shaved & painted RBC all installed and bolted up to the head with Ti hardware.
Hybrid Racing fuel rail installed with Titanium fasteners, these bolts are great, they don't corrode and are lighter than OEM. When your used to the weight of standard steel bolts its crazy how light these bolts feel, especially when you pick up M10 and up.
Took some more shots of my custom engine mount fitted with OEM bolts:
Engine as it stands at the moment, currently awaiting my rocker and spark plug cover back from Spooner Restorations, cannot wait to get the engine buttoned up and ready to go in.
I've been putting this off but I really need sit down next and work out the wiring for the EPS and make a custom bracket to mount my Odyssey PC680 battery. I actually need to think about this next part rather than the easy cleaning and bolting parts together!
Edited by Mudgey on Saturday 21st October 17:38
I've had both previously and tbh I didn't really tell much difference! I'm trying to remove as much as I can get away with to make the car lighter and free up some additional horsepower without some kind of forced induction. I've had a supercharged K20 Prelude previously and it was great fun, but I just couldn't get away from the fact I missed the sound.
I think I am not going to chase big numbers with this car and try and just make it a little better at what it already does well. I still need to own a Big Power car, 500hp or more, so I think that'll be a different project for the future.
I think I am not going to chase big numbers with this car and try and just make it a little better at what it already does well. I still need to own a Big Power car, 500hp or more, so I think that'll be a different project for the future.
Edited by Mudgey on Sunday 22 October 14:11
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