Pre cat water pump

[FlipFlopGriff]

Having some cooling issues so going to start investigating the cause but checking on te pars list the water pumps is listed as GWP204, for a TR8. Only one on ebay is in Oz at about £180 but then I'll get stung with extra customs charges. Would a Disco 1 or RR Classic pump not fit?
FFG

[chris52]

Rimmer brothers and Moss Europe both show them in stock at £113 plus Vat.

[phillpot]

"High Performance" pump £120 (less discount for TVRCC members?) from TVR Parts



In my (limited) experience water pumps don't "stop pumping" except very rare situations where the impellor shatters or comes adrift?

Usually just get noisy/leak when seals and bearings fail.

Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 4th July 10:59

[FlipFlopGriff]

Thanks all. Its a 3 stud pulley and happen to look identical to the one on the Land Rover which is a P6 engine but with SD1 rockers and inlet manifold. Just preparing in case I need to replace one or the other as the LR is getting too hot also. Replacing the stat in both, but will take the pump off to see what the impellers are like.
FFG

[FlipFlopGriff]

Just tested the system and change the otter. Ran the car up to temp and the thermostat housing reads around 102, water pump housing 108 and the gauge over 110. At this point the system vents through the blue VW cap so turned it off. Feed pipe to the top of the rad is stainless and at ambient, ie not hot at all. Heater pipes inside the car also cold so I'm guessing water pump as these should be hot as they are in the closed circuit?. I'd planned to change the thermostat for a 74 anyway as I've had it for ages.
It the BV not the 500 BTW - just looked at the title so this should have been obvious.
Can't find TVR Parts in the discounts on the TVRCC website???
FFG

Edited by FlipFlopGriff on Tuesday 4th July 17:12

Edited by FlipFlopGriff on Tuesday 4th July 17:18

[FlipFlopGriff]

Anyone assist in diagnosis.
FFG

[paulathome]

Sounds like either the thermostat is not opening or you have an air lock. Try bleeding the air out from rad top bolt and swirl pot.
Good luck hope you sort it.
Paul

[MPO]

Paul

It does sound like an airlock to me...

I believe yours is a pre CAT like mine, you could bleed of any air via the water pipes that feed the bottom of the plenum (beneath the throttle see pipes 29 and 30 in link). This was removed on later Griffs...

http://fl.b5z.net/i/u/6064257/i/PLENUM_RANGE_ROVER...

If you have a DIY bypass in place (like I have done) there should be one pipe leading to the top of the inlet manifold. This could be slackened off to bleed some air out…

[bluezeeland]

I found it beneficial to take off the hose on top of the pump (feed side) and fill this up with coolant (with the aid of a small funnel), this way at least the pump has some 'fetch'......

[FlipFlopGriff]

Bled the top bolt on the rad and it weeps water so no air there. No water going into the header tank when revving it. Will have a look for the bleed valve - thanks Glyn.
If the stat is blocked there should be water still circulating via the water pump though shouldn't there?
I think this is the correct pump looking at the existing:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232342269955
FFG

[FlipFlopGriff]

Bleed the air from the plenum area when cold or running?
FFG

[bluezeeland]

FlipFlopGriff said:

Bled the top bolt on the rad and it weeps water so no air there. No water going into the header tank when revving it. Will have a look for the bleed valve - thanks Glyn.
If the stat is blocked there should be water still circulating via the water pump though shouldn't there?
I think this is the correct pump looking at the existing:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232342269955
FFG

Negative, this one;


http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store/slug/wate...

[MPO]

FlipFlopGriff said:

Bleed the air from the plenum area when cold or running?
FFG

I did it from cold to get most of the air out as I filled the system then ran it for a few seconds to push the air blocks out.

Finally, put the pipe back on.

Worked fine for me...

[Aussie John]

Sure it's not a stuck thermostat?

[FlipFlopGriff]

Aussie John said:

Sure it's not a stuck thermostat?

I'll try the air lock in the plenum area first but was going to put a Wahler 74 stat in (with a jiggle pin) in anyway. The pre cat tend to run a bit warmer and get hotter quicker.
Thanks John.
FFG

[Aussie John]

Make sure you put the jiggle pin at the top when you put the thermostat in, they say it helps bleed the air out which makes sense. My overheating problem appears to be the radiator which was recored 10 years ago [but only 6k miles in that time] I changed the coolant regularly but it has still partially blocked [ at least this is what I think ] I read that with an alloy block and copper/brass radiator the coolant turns to an acid then a voltage appears between the engine and the radiator [only maybe only .3/10ths of a volt ] this slowly eats the alloy of the engine and deposits this in the coolest part of the cooling system [the bottom of the radiator], It solidifies and cannot be flushed. If a cable earthing the engine to the radiator is installed then this should help solve the problem. The above is an interesting take on an overheating problem and has been proven in old Lotus engines.

[FlipFlopGriff]

Will do. Spring towards the engine so you see the semicircle piece. Gasket silicon turned up today.
FFG

[Aussie John]

You could also drop the old stat in a pan of water, bring it to the boil and see if it opens just before it boils.

[FlipFlopGriff]

Aussie John said:

You could also drop the old stat in a pan of water, bring it to the boil and see if it opens just before it boils.

I will John, but at that point it will be going in the bin anyway.
FFG