Slight leak after replacing coolant hose - help please

[Percent]

I have just replaced a lower coolant hose on my E36 and it is leaking a small amount. The image below is the area which the new hose connects to.
Is that build up on the left actual thread or is it just rubber build up from the old hose? Maybe it's leaking as the new pipe is sitting on there unevenly?

[CoolHands]

I don't know about btw specifically but I've never seen one with a 'thread' before.

I would use some wire wool or something and clean plastic pipe, I would imagine it's just remnants of the old hose / water marks, then just reseat your hose onto it, and retighten.

[GreenV8S]

Some spigots have a bead at the end to prevent the hose sliding off. I can see at the top of that picture that this spigot has a plain end and no bead. The lump you see at the bottom is probably the remains of the old hose which have stuck to it. You'll need to clean that off and get back to a smooth surface in order to get a seal. It may need careful scraping. If you do scrape it, make sure you scrape sideways round the circumference rather than lengthways to avoid leaving scratches that can carry water past the clamp - but you should aim not to leave any scratches.

[Percent]

I've just cleaned up the connection point and that lump was actually a plastic thread. Am I better off securing the hose clip as in the image below or should I put it immediately after that piece of plastic thread? As you can see, the moment I have the clamp situated near the very end of the hose.

Edited by Percent on Sunday 9th July 14:54

Edited by Percent on Sunday 9th July 14:54

Edited by Percent on Sunday 9th July 14:55

[GreenV8S]

It won't be a thread but may be a partial bead. Make sure the hose clamp is completely past the bead and also that the hose protrudes past the clamp. Where you have it in that picture looks fine.

[paintman]

Is it possible to get a second clamp on the hose? - solved a weep for me on the top hose of my RRC after I fitted a Kenlowe fan as the sensor goes into the top hose with a rubber spacer thing that the sensor tube sits in.
If you can then have the worm drive on the second on the opposite side to the other one.

[Jakg]

Does the clamp tighten up ok? Can wear out over time, and cheap ones can be rubbish. A proper jubilee one will be £1 off eBay.

[Percent]

Thanks for the replies. It seems I have fixed that leaking pipe with a reasonably tight, well positioned clip, however I now have another issue. I've pasted in the full story below.

I have a E36 328i 1996. The thermostat housing cracked and was leaking coolant so I replaced it myself with a aluminium one after checking the flatness of it carefully I used some RTV around the gasket area [not RTV paste around the entire thing, including thermostat area]. I then refilled the radiator with coolant and attempted the bleed process. As the car comes up to operating temperature with the heater and fans on maximum there is no heat from the heater. The car will idle for 10-15 minutes at normal/middle temperature but if I try to drive it, it soon overheats and I'm forced to switch it off. There are no leaks from the newly installed thermostat housing.

In the past I have bled the car and when i open the bleed screw bubbles comes out, this time I just hear some air hissing but no bubbles/coolant/water.

Would it be that somehow I have broken the thermostat while installing the new housing and now it will not open, hence why the heater wont produce any heat? All I did was clean it up, I din't mess around with it while installing the new thermostat housing. Or does it sound more like a bleed issue?

My bleed process is, have the front wheels on blocks of wood to give it some height up front, fill radiator with coolant, have the expansion tank lid loose - run car until it reaches operating temperature with heater and fans on max. Then crack the bleed screw. At this point there are no bubbles coming out of bleed screw so I tightened the expansion tank and bleed screw and tried to reverse out of the garage. As soon as I started to reverse the temp sensor started to go past middle and I shut off the engine.

Any help welcome, thanks.

[Collectingbrass]

I'd have said you need the expansion tank lid down tight. Have a read of this:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-C...

If that doesn't solve it then check the thermostat opens in hot water? You didn't say whether you'd fitted an OEM one or not.

Then again, what do I know; I've spent all day buggering around with a convertible roof and I suspect I have well and truely fked it. Brilliant

[paintman]

Is the thermostat that's fitted a genuine BMW part or aftermarket from A.N.Other?

Reason I ask is that I aware of issues with pattern thermostats on other cars where the stat is at the top of the engine.
In the case of the Ford Essex V6 one of the Scimitar specialists found some cheapie stats that didn't have a bleed hole in the stat so air got trapped behind the stat preventing water heating it up. Result was car would overheat sitting in the garage ticking over. Highlighted in the club magazine at the time - albeit some years ago.
And the Rover V8, again cheapie pattern also with no bleed hole & same result. The V8 one must be fitted in a specific orientation with bleed hole at 12 0'clock.

Looking at this youtube it shows your stat is oriented much the same as the V8 so I wonder if this might be the issue?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSp4f73U40o
The pelican 'how to' here specifically mentions correct orientation: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-T...

I'd suggest removing it & testing in a pan of water to see if it opens or just fit a new one.

If it was fine before, you've not had a bleeding issue on previous occasions with the old housing, the new housing is correctly made - as in looks exactly like the one you've replaced - & you've not done anything else then my suspicion would be the stat.

This from another website comments on raising the front of the car:
"Sounds like you aren't bleeding the system correctly. Try:
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?701025-n...

Good luck!

Edited by paintman on Sunday 9th July 23:13