Buying a banger checklist?
Discussion
Hello
I have a budget of 1000 to buy myself something to put me on a couple of years whilst I buy a house. I'm saving some cars down on autotrader etc i intend to go and see/test drive etc. Next week.
What are the common things I need to look for at this end of the market? I'm thinking 90's 4dr saloon or coupe. I'm a bit of a novice on the mechanical side but not bereft of the basics, rust, tyre tread, no leaks etc. This car is also going to serve as a self DIY haynes ,annual project for me
Is there some sort of checklist I can have to hand?
Apologies if this gets asked alot I'm more than happy to be served a link to an old post if that's better. Cheers
I have a budget of 1000 to buy myself something to put me on a couple of years whilst I buy a house. I'm saving some cars down on autotrader etc i intend to go and see/test drive etc. Next week.
What are the common things I need to look for at this end of the market? I'm thinking 90's 4dr saloon or coupe. I'm a bit of a novice on the mechanical side but not bereft of the basics, rust, tyre tread, no leaks etc. This car is also going to serve as a self DIY haynes ,annual project for me
Is there some sort of checklist I can have to hand?
Apologies if this gets asked alot I'm more than happy to be served a link to an old post if that's better. Cheers
Did this a year ago as I was buying a house and budgeted £1k for something reliable, practical and with a hint of performance and style.
Went for a 2006 Saab 93 aero and with that budget I could be really fussy on condition and spec. Got exactly the one I wanted, 1 owner car, manual, full leather, infotainment, heated seats etc... meticulously maintained with 100k on the clock a 12 month MOT, fresh service including new brakes and it's been wonderful.
Keep thinking of upgrading, but it's actually really fun to drive and perfect for hauling bags of top soil from Bunnings and making multiple trips to the tip.
It scrubs up nice, feels like a much more expensive car and goes pretty well too. It's been very reliable too and wanted for nothing so far (touch wood).
Other cars I considered were Skoda Octavia VRS, Subaru Legacy or Volvo V50. I'm pleased with my choice of shed though
Went for a 2006 Saab 93 aero and with that budget I could be really fussy on condition and spec. Got exactly the one I wanted, 1 owner car, manual, full leather, infotainment, heated seats etc... meticulously maintained with 100k on the clock a 12 month MOT, fresh service including new brakes and it's been wonderful.
Keep thinking of upgrading, but it's actually really fun to drive and perfect for hauling bags of top soil from Bunnings and making multiple trips to the tip.
It scrubs up nice, feels like a much more expensive car and goes pretty well too. It's been very reliable too and wanted for nothing so far (touch wood).
Other cars I considered were Skoda Octavia VRS, Subaru Legacy or Volvo V50. I'm pleased with my choice of shed though
At that age/price it is buying on condition only, don't rule out high mileage, don't have a cut off date, don't look for a particular brand/engine as they will all be quite different now even if they started out the same.
You want a car that is worth little but looked after, not one the owner hasn't bothered to care for because of its low value. (for example families with young kids have better things to do than car maintenance on a shed, whereas a pensioner has the time and inclination in many cases to continue caring for a machine past its sell by date)
BUY PRIVATE.
MOT history check will give you pointers to look for when you visit.
Rust check around sills/seat belt anchors and any mounts you can get at.
Is the spare wheel/jack there.
Check the steering on full lock, both L+R forward and reverse.
Take it over some ramps and listen and feel for expired suspension.
On a flat road you should be able to release the steering wheel and stay straight.
Put it in fourth at 30mph and floor it to check clutch.
Check that fluids/tyres etc are as they should be.
Check bumper/grill areas for signs of crash damage.
You want a car that is worth little but looked after, not one the owner hasn't bothered to care for because of its low value. (for example families with young kids have better things to do than car maintenance on a shed, whereas a pensioner has the time and inclination in many cases to continue caring for a machine past its sell by date)
BUY PRIVATE.
MOT history check will give you pointers to look for when you visit.
Rust check around sills/seat belt anchors and any mounts you can get at.
Is the spare wheel/jack there.
Check the steering on full lock, both L+R forward and reverse.
Take it over some ramps and listen and feel for expired suspension.
On a flat road you should be able to release the steering wheel and stay straight.
Put it in fourth at 30mph and floor it to check clutch.
Check that fluids/tyres etc are as they should be.
Check bumper/grill areas for signs of crash damage.
Thanks. Yes it's stuff like that I'm interested in hearing about. That's very useful. Previous car was an 05 s2000 so I'm definitely downgrading regardless of what I choose and checking around that car was easy as they are bullet proof. And it came from a decent garage. I'm much more likely to buy private this time though. They'll be more play in what I pay as well as being able to spot how much it's cared for by the current owner.
Saab 93 aero. Saw one of those on AT for like 1200 quid. Looked solid enough but Ive only just sold the S so some cars I'd seen 3 months ago aren't up for sale still. I'd consider one though although I'd worry about parts for Saab's. Are there enough aftermarket/dealer resellers still going?
I initially had my head set on a Celica st202 mid 90s but not sure if I could get a decent one for under a grand unless it's been to the moon and back. Mileage does concern me sometimes but I know it shouldn't really.
I'm not too bothered about having to replace bits in time. So long as the engine, gearbox and the overall structural condition is sound. They're the expenses in my book.
Saab 93 aero. Saw one of those on AT for like 1200 quid. Looked solid enough but Ive only just sold the S so some cars I'd seen 3 months ago aren't up for sale still. I'd consider one though although I'd worry about parts for Saab's. Are there enough aftermarket/dealer resellers still going?
I initially had my head set on a Celica st202 mid 90s but not sure if I could get a decent one for under a grand unless it's been to the moon and back. Mileage does concern me sometimes but I know it shouldn't really.
I'm not too bothered about having to replace bits in time. So long as the engine, gearbox and the overall structural condition is sound. They're the expenses in my book.
Also CHECK you are actually buying private.
A lot of sellers at this price point will be driveway traders masquerading as private sellers. Googling the persons phone number is always a good starting point. Also ask them directly is their name and address on the V5C and will you be meeting them at that address?
Usual "reasons" for their name not being on the v5c and have just bought it are : my wife doesnt like it, i've just found out my wife is pregnant so we will need a bigger car (well unless she has the gestation period of a barn rat you're probably find for many months yet), selling it for a friend / family member, or "i took it as a trade in to sell my own private car".
ALL of those to me has to be considered to be = I'm a trader trying to avoid having to stand over the car.
A lot of sellers at this price point will be driveway traders masquerading as private sellers. Googling the persons phone number is always a good starting point. Also ask them directly is their name and address on the V5C and will you be meeting them at that address?
Usual "reasons" for their name not being on the v5c and have just bought it are : my wife doesnt like it, i've just found out my wife is pregnant so we will need a bigger car (well unless she has the gestation period of a barn rat you're probably find for many months yet), selling it for a friend / family member, or "i took it as a trade in to sell my own private car".
ALL of those to me has to be considered to be = I'm a trader trying to avoid having to stand over the car.
Just been jotting down a few points as they occur to me ;
As has been said in your price range you are looking at a local car with at least 8 months MOT, and if you find something interesting all well and good but you’ve set a budget for a (very good) reason you don’t want an £800 car that needs even £400 worth of work doing to it straight away – which at that end of the market you won’t get a ‘Dealer’ to do so you’re buying privately and then it’s nearly as much about the vibe you get from the vendor as the car itself.
If they don’t have the full V5 (in their name) then it could be that the car has come to them as a trade in and is being moved on, so (essentially) you’re buying from someone who has just off-loaded their car to a dealer working from home pretending to be a private vendor – see Facebook for many, many examples.
I find that on-line MOT history is very useful as a guide to show if the car has been cared for - if you’re seeing thin brake pads, nearly bald tyres and so on as advisories or the dates show gaps where the MOT has been left to lapse it all points (to me at least) to someone who doesn’t look after their car but just gets it fixed when it absolutely needs it, you don’t want their stored up problems !
It’s not the most inspiring of images but I’m imagining a neat 3 bed semi with a silver Honda Jazz sat on the drive being sold via the local paper by a retired Civil servant who has a history file 2 inches thick and apologises that there’s only ¼ of a tank of petrol in it …..
Good luck !
As has been said in your price range you are looking at a local car with at least 8 months MOT, and if you find something interesting all well and good but you’ve set a budget for a (very good) reason you don’t want an £800 car that needs even £400 worth of work doing to it straight away – which at that end of the market you won’t get a ‘Dealer’ to do so you’re buying privately and then it’s nearly as much about the vibe you get from the vendor as the car itself.
If they don’t have the full V5 (in their name) then it could be that the car has come to them as a trade in and is being moved on, so (essentially) you’re buying from someone who has just off-loaded their car to a dealer working from home pretending to be a private vendor – see Facebook for many, many examples.
I find that on-line MOT history is very useful as a guide to show if the car has been cared for - if you’re seeing thin brake pads, nearly bald tyres and so on as advisories or the dates show gaps where the MOT has been left to lapse it all points (to me at least) to someone who doesn’t look after their car but just gets it fixed when it absolutely needs it, you don’t want their stored up problems !
It’s not the most inspiring of images but I’m imagining a neat 3 bed semi with a silver Honda Jazz sat on the drive being sold via the local paper by a retired Civil servant who has a history file 2 inches thick and apologises that there’s only ¼ of a tank of petrol in it …..
Good luck !
Here is a checklist I put together a few years ago when looking for an older car on a budget, scraped together from various forums - a couple of bits were specific to that car, but hopefully helpful nonetheless.
The car in question I bought was a Lexus LS430. Has been reliable and for £2-3k (or £500-£2k if looking for the older, but considered even more reliable/simpler LS400s) you get a car with a 4.3 V8 (reasonably quick in a straight line, 6 point something secs to 60, loads of low down torque), very luxurious (if a bit fisher price / tacky by today's standards). The risk you take though is if anything did go wrong, it will be a big bill given Lexus parts prices... I bought with the intention of running for 6-12 months whilst I looked for a nicer replacement car for my old M5 which I had sold. 2.5 years on and I still have the Lexus as it hasn't done anything wrong and I scratch the nice car itch every now and again by hiring a really nice car for a weekend with some of the money I'm saving every month.
Docs:
V5C / VIN plate / colour match
MOT certificate + advisories + emissions
Service history – last service
Consistent mileage – MOT / service book
Timing belt change – when last done – should be done every 60k miles?
Bodywork / equipment
Panel gaps consistent?
Even paint?
Rust – underneath car, arches, jacking points?
Damp boot / carpets?
Press down on each corner – excessive bounce?
Tyres – 20p coin test, even wear?
Spare tyre?
Locking wheel nut?
In Car
Seatbelts work?
Lights – headlights, brakes, indicators, full beam, fog, reverse
Windscreen wiper
Locks work?
Windows work?
Heating, aircon
Stereo
Electric seats
Under Bonnet
VIN tampered?
Welding engine bay / boot?
Battery terminals rusty?
Belts / hoses – cracks?
Oil sludge + should be golden colour?
Oil level?
Trans fluid level + should be reddish?
PS fluid leak?
Test Drive
Warning lights go out?
Blue smoke on start up / rev?
Any oil / fluid leaks where parked?
From 30mph, hands of wheel + braking – any pull?
Effective handbrake?
Steering vibration
Flat spot acceleration
Suspension squeaks / knocks?
The car in question I bought was a Lexus LS430. Has been reliable and for £2-3k (or £500-£2k if looking for the older, but considered even more reliable/simpler LS400s) you get a car with a 4.3 V8 (reasonably quick in a straight line, 6 point something secs to 60, loads of low down torque), very luxurious (if a bit fisher price / tacky by today's standards). The risk you take though is if anything did go wrong, it will be a big bill given Lexus parts prices... I bought with the intention of running for 6-12 months whilst I looked for a nicer replacement car for my old M5 which I had sold. 2.5 years on and I still have the Lexus as it hasn't done anything wrong and I scratch the nice car itch every now and again by hiring a really nice car for a weekend with some of the money I'm saving every month.
Docs:
V5C / VIN plate / colour match
MOT certificate + advisories + emissions
Service history – last service
Consistent mileage – MOT / service book
Timing belt change – when last done – should be done every 60k miles?
Bodywork / equipment
Panel gaps consistent?
Even paint?
Rust – underneath car, arches, jacking points?
Damp boot / carpets?
Press down on each corner – excessive bounce?
Tyres – 20p coin test, even wear?
Spare tyre?
Locking wheel nut?
In Car
Seatbelts work?
Lights – headlights, brakes, indicators, full beam, fog, reverse
Windscreen wiper
Locks work?
Windows work?
Heating, aircon
Stereo
Electric seats
Under Bonnet
VIN tampered?
Welding engine bay / boot?
Battery terminals rusty?
Belts / hoses – cracks?
Oil sludge + should be golden colour?
Oil level?
Trans fluid level + should be reddish?
PS fluid leak?
Test Drive
Warning lights go out?
Blue smoke on start up / rev?
Any oil / fluid leaks where parked?
From 30mph, hands of wheel + braking – any pull?
Effective handbrake?
Steering vibration
Flat spot acceleration
Suspension squeaks / knocks?
All the usual, in addition to the points already mentioned:
- Tyre condition. Not just tread, but sidewalls, too. Big gouges out of the sidewalls can be MoT fails.
- Oil cap. Should not have "mayo" visible underneath. Just oil. At banger money, the colour of the oil is not as important as the lack of mayo!
- Electrics. As long as the mirrors and drivers window works, then great. Everything else is a bonus.
- Engine temperature. Leave it running parked up as you walk round it. Car should come up to temperature and stay there, not overheat.
- Find some rough road. Nothing will expose knackered suspension like a trip down a badly pitted road.
- Engine noise. With the bonnet up, does it sound like a brick in a cement mixer, or is it smooth? Modern sound deadening can cover a multitude of sins, so get up close to the motor.
- Locking wheel nut key. If locking nuts are fitted, make sure they have a key.
Good luck!
- Tyre condition. Not just tread, but sidewalls, too. Big gouges out of the sidewalls can be MoT fails.
- Oil cap. Should not have "mayo" visible underneath. Just oil. At banger money, the colour of the oil is not as important as the lack of mayo!
- Electrics. As long as the mirrors and drivers window works, then great. Everything else is a bonus.
- Engine temperature. Leave it running parked up as you walk round it. Car should come up to temperature and stay there, not overheat.
- Find some rough road. Nothing will expose knackered suspension like a trip down a badly pitted road.
- Engine noise. With the bonnet up, does it sound like a brick in a cement mixer, or is it smooth? Modern sound deadening can cover a multitude of sins, so get up close to the motor.
- Locking wheel nut key. If locking nuts are fitted, make sure they have a key.
Good luck!
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