New Chimaera owner - intitial worries!
Discussion
Hi all,
Well after a long time I have taken the plunge and bought my first TVR, a 1994 400HC Chimaera.
It needs tidying, but that was reflected in the price, the major issues so far are as follows, any info/advice/opinions would be welcome.
Driving the car back, yep, the very first journey, it broke down. l lost all power, managed to coast to a layby, where the car refused to re start.
The AA seem to think its the alternator that has given up, but not 100%. there are two wires coming from the alternator that the AA chap could not identify. Is the tacho feed from the alternator? this could account for one. The other looks quite homemade, it runs through an inline fuse to a relay then onwards, is this a usual mod, I believe I have seen it before when viewing other cars. If so what does it supply power to? I don't want to just replace the alternator if one of these additional wires could be the cause of the issue.
The second is, the cabin is extremely hot, there's a lot of hot air, not part of the heating system, coming down the transmission tunnel from under the dash, is this normal? it was quite uncomfortably hot.
I'm sure there will be other questions!
I'm down in Cornwall, anyone else in the area?
All replies gratefully received.
Frank
Well after a long time I have taken the plunge and bought my first TVR, a 1994 400HC Chimaera.
It needs tidying, but that was reflected in the price, the major issues so far are as follows, any info/advice/opinions would be welcome.
Driving the car back, yep, the very first journey, it broke down. l lost all power, managed to coast to a layby, where the car refused to re start.
The AA seem to think its the alternator that has given up, but not 100%. there are two wires coming from the alternator that the AA chap could not identify. Is the tacho feed from the alternator? this could account for one. The other looks quite homemade, it runs through an inline fuse to a relay then onwards, is this a usual mod, I believe I have seen it before when viewing other cars. If so what does it supply power to? I don't want to just replace the alternator if one of these additional wires could be the cause of the issue.
The second is, the cabin is extremely hot, there's a lot of hot air, not part of the heating system, coming down the transmission tunnel from under the dash, is this normal? it was quite uncomfortably hot.
I'm sure there will be other questions!
I'm down in Cornwall, anyone else in the area?
All replies gratefully received.
Frank
Welcome to the fold
Can't help on the cutting out, but try doing a search for the hot start issue. You can also test the alternator by using a multi meter but the AA man should have checked this.
As for the cabin, you are basically sitting next to the gearbox. So without the roof off or windows open they do get hot. Great in winter but not ideal for summer. You can insulate the car with some dynamat. That should cool things down a bit.
Can't help on the cutting out, but try doing a search for the hot start issue. You can also test the alternator by using a multi meter but the AA man should have checked this.
As for the cabin, you are basically sitting next to the gearbox. So without the roof off or windows open they do get hot. Great in winter but not ideal for summer. You can insulate the car with some dynamat. That should cool things down a bit.
When you turn the ignition on (after disarming the immobiliser) what do you hear?
Does the fuel pump kick in? If it doesn't, there are a couple of relays in the passenger footwell that fail regularly. They are in the circuit for both the fuel pump and the ECU so the car can't start if they are playing up.
Ask me how I know this.
I am assuming that the car is cranking here.
As far as heat goes, I can't turn my heater all the way off. I do believe that TADTS.
Does the fuel pump kick in? If it doesn't, there are a couple of relays in the passenger footwell that fail regularly. They are in the circuit for both the fuel pump and the ECU so the car can't start if they are playing up.
Ask me how I know this.
I am assuming that the car is cranking here.
As far as heat goes, I can't turn my heater all the way off. I do believe that TADTS.
Sounds like your 100 amp fuse has gone, that basically connects your car to your electrics.
The wires coming out of the alternator are the big fat one, that's going to the 100amp fuse, the battery and the starter, a thin one to your rev counter, and another thin one to the red light on your dash. You have to get under the car, just in front of the starter motor, normally strapped to the bottom chassis rail, you will see a small plastic box with two red wires either side of it. Open it up, if it is the old type of fuse, you will see that it is in two pieces.
The heat, could be that your heater valve is not closed, and you have one of the round vents open in the footwell, one by your left knee and the other above the passenger's toes. Look under the dash, behind the vent by the door and you should see a couple of rubber hoses going vertically up. On one of them, there is a small lever that is connected to what looks like a bicycle brake cable. Turn the heater temp wheel and look if that is moving, if it is not, then push it as far forward as it goes. That will hopefully stop hot coolant going into the matrix. Close off those vents too, as if any coolant is trickling into the matrix, then as you are moving, hot air will get into your footwells.
The first month or so is like this if you haven't bought a prepped car from a specialist dealer (with a good reputation) or someone who didn't look after his car. I would recommend you pop it into your nearest TVR centre and ask them to give it a once over.
The wires coming out of the alternator are the big fat one, that's going to the 100amp fuse, the battery and the starter, a thin one to your rev counter, and another thin one to the red light on your dash. You have to get under the car, just in front of the starter motor, normally strapped to the bottom chassis rail, you will see a small plastic box with two red wires either side of it. Open it up, if it is the old type of fuse, you will see that it is in two pieces.
The heat, could be that your heater valve is not closed, and you have one of the round vents open in the footwell, one by your left knee and the other above the passenger's toes. Look under the dash, behind the vent by the door and you should see a couple of rubber hoses going vertically up. On one of them, there is a small lever that is connected to what looks like a bicycle brake cable. Turn the heater temp wheel and look if that is moving, if it is not, then push it as far forward as it goes. That will hopefully stop hot coolant going into the matrix. Close off those vents too, as if any coolant is trickling into the matrix, then as you are moving, hot air will get into your footwells.
The first month or so is like this if you haven't bought a prepped car from a specialist dealer (with a good reputation) or someone who didn't look after his car. I would recommend you pop it into your nearest TVR centre and ask them to give it a once over.
As the poster above says it could well be the 100amp fuse. I had to replace mine recently and this is the one you need. I bought from there and they posted out quickly. While you're ordering having the 80amp version too wouldn't be a bad idea as they're not so common. The 100amp is an easy fix and you can get to it without having to have the car in the air.
There is another fuse that many seem to miss (me included) and it's a 30 amp that usually resides behind the battery and that also supplies all electrics. It's a bit of a mess down there (standard) so don't be scared but do be careful. Mine went as a result of a relay touching a battery terminal.
Thanks for all the info, really appreciated.
Whilst slaking my thirst in the local, have done more research, thank goodness for wifi, on the basis of that have ordered some 100 amp fuses.
Funnily enough, friends popped round to see the car and it started! I'm guessing that's the charge put in yesterday by the AA, but the ignition light, red LED middle lower dash between tacho and speedo? is not showing red with ignition on, yesterday it was just about glowing with ignition on and with engine running?
I'm good with mechanics, so can check/adjust/maintain that side of the car, will be looking at the chassis over the winter, looks and seems ok, but will get it in the air and do further checks. No advisories on any MOT re corrosion, so fingers crossed.
Have read threads re HC or not HC, I have the 400HC badge on the plenum, and the engine number finishes in HC, I am right in being comfortable that it is one.
Any further advice welcome.
Cheers
Frank
Whilst slaking my thirst in the local, have done more research, thank goodness for wifi, on the basis of that have ordered some 100 amp fuses.
Funnily enough, friends popped round to see the car and it started! I'm guessing that's the charge put in yesterday by the AA, but the ignition light, red LED middle lower dash between tacho and speedo? is not showing red with ignition on, yesterday it was just about glowing with ignition on and with engine running?
I'm good with mechanics, so can check/adjust/maintain that side of the car, will be looking at the chassis over the winter, looks and seems ok, but will get it in the air and do further checks. No advisories on any MOT re corrosion, so fingers crossed.
Have read threads re HC or not HC, I have the 400HC badge on the plenum, and the engine number finishes in HC, I am right in being comfortable that it is one.
Any further advice welcome.
Cheers
Frank
Franky boy said:
Funnily enough, friends popped round to see the car and it started! I'm guessing that's the charge put in yesterday by the AA, but the ignition light, red LED middle lower dash between tacho and speedo? is not showing red with ignition on, yesterday it was just about glowing with ignition on and with engine running?
This sounds even more likely that it's the 100 amp fuse. Mine is located on the chassis on the passenger side to the rear of the engine. Look for the thick cables running down. It's in a small plastic housing that needed a couple of cable ties to keep closed.wseed said:
Franky boy said:
Funnily enough, friends popped round to see the car and it started! I'm guessing that's the charge put in yesterday by the AA, but the ignition light, red LED middle lower dash between tacho and speedo? is not showing red with ignition on, yesterday it was just about glowing with ignition on and with engine running?
This sounds even more likely that it's the 100 amp fuse. Mine is located on the chassis on the passenger side to the rear of the engine. Look for the thick cables running down. It's in a small plastic housing that needed a couple of cable ties to keep closed.Guess you've checked the output from the alternator - looking for 13.5V.
Nick
The hot air coming into the cabin from the central tunnel could be that the rubber gaiters around the gear lever and/or handbrake have perished - there are rubber gaiters under the leather ones. Worth checking, as that is also a favourite way in for vermin that will then chew your wiring if your location is at all rural. Generally speaking the cabins on these cars are pretty hot when the engine is warned up, as you have the V8 heater between the driver and passenger's legs, and the gearbox between your hips - the airconditioning is activated by the releasing two alloy bars in the rear window.
I agree re the 100 amp fuse - the ignition light on whilst running means the alternator is not charging the battery. Most RAC/AA men don't know there is a 100 amp fuse between the alternator and the battery electrically speaking. As said, it is under the car in a fuse holder, due south of the alternator. Take it completely out (small socket spanner needed) as a broken one might look fine until you release it. The ends touching may be why the problem is intermittent.
Don't rule out a faulty alternator, but you can check that easily enough with the engine running with a multimeter in the hole in the back of the alternator itself.
I agree re the 100 amp fuse - the ignition light on whilst running means the alternator is not charging the battery. Most RAC/AA men don't know there is a 100 amp fuse between the alternator and the battery electrically speaking. As said, it is under the car in a fuse holder, due south of the alternator. Take it completely out (small socket spanner needed) as a broken one might look fine until you release it. The ends touching may be why the problem is intermittent.
Don't rule out a faulty alternator, but you can check that easily enough with the engine running with a multimeter in the hole in the back of the alternator itself.
nawarne said:
I'd agree with 100A fuse. Once you find the black plastic 'carrier', open it and physically undo the 8mm(?) strip fuse retaining nuts. The fuses often fail with a hairline crack that only becomes apparent when removing the nuts....it falls to pieces.
Very much this ^^^I had a similar issue with mine back in January- visual inspection seemed to confirm all was well with the fuse (not to mention a continuity test across it), and my logic therefore deduced that the alternator needed re-commissioning. I removed the alternator and took it to a guy who plugged it into a test bench only to tell me it was fine...
Got the front of the car up on stands again (swearing at my ignorance), and actually undid the bolts holding the fuse in place this time- at which point the two halves of the fuse promptly fell to the floor. Bolted in a new one and all has been well ever since.
Ironically, due to being constrained at the time to the use of a trolley jack that wasn't quite low enough (therefore requiring a scissor jack to get the trolley jack into place!), and faffing with axle stands on the driveway, the removal and re-fitting of the alternator was a 10 minute walk in the park compared with the couple of hours faffing around to change the bloody fuse!
Couple of low entry trolley jacks. Halfords also do one, present price £60, but I have seen it a lot cheaper in the past. Lift from the bolt at the corners of the outriggers.
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&am...
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl2-2-tonne-low-pr...
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&am...
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl2-2-tonne-low-pr...
QBee said:
Couple of low entry trolley jacks. Halfords also do one, present price £60, but I have seen it a lot cheaper in the past. Lift from the bolt at the corners of the outriggers.
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&am...
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl2-2-tonne-low-pr...
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&am...
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl2-2-tonne-low-pr...
I've got access to a lower one now but a decent low-entry one is on my shopping list- I've been meaning to get one the last couple of months but it's amazing how these things slip your mind when you aren't presently needing them
nawarne said:
wseed said:
Franky boy said:
Funnily enough, friends popped round to see the car and it started! I'm guessing that's the charge put in yesterday by the AA, but the ignition light, red LED middle lower dash between tacho and speedo? is not showing red with ignition on, yesterday it was just about glowing with ignition on and with engine running?
This sounds even more likely that it's the 100 amp fuse. Mine is located on the chassis on the passenger side to the rear of the engine. Look for the thick cables running down. It's in a small plastic housing that needed a couple of cable ties to keep closed.Guess you've checked the output from the alternator - looking for 13.5V.
Nick
The specs etc are in this link.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-fuses/787...
wseed said:
Franky boy said:
Funnily enough, friends popped round to see the car and it started! I'm guessing that's the charge put in yesterday by the AA, but the ignition light, red LED middle lower dash between tacho and speedo? is not showing red with ignition on, yesterday it was just about glowing with ignition on and with engine running?
This sounds even more likely that it's the 100 amp fuse. Mine is located on the chassis on the passenger side to the rear of the engine. Look for the thick cables running down. It's in a small plastic housing that needed a couple of cable ties to keep closed.Steve
Many thanks for the words of wisdom.
I have ordered some 100amp fuses, so hopefully that will be the issue.
The AA looked at what was coming out of the alternator and there wasn't anything, what would it read if the fuse had gone?
Anyway, thanks once again, it will be after the weekend now before I can have a look, but will let you know.
Cheers
Frank
I have ordered some 100amp fuses, so hopefully that will be the issue.
The AA looked at what was coming out of the alternator and there wasn't anything, what would it read if the fuse had gone?
Anyway, thanks once again, it will be after the weekend now before I can have a look, but will let you know.
Cheers
Frank
Franky boy said:
Many thanks for the words of wisdom.
I have ordered some 100amp fuses, so hopefully that will be the issue.
The AA looked at what was coming out of the alternator and there wasn't anything, what would it read if the fuse had gone?
Anyway, thanks once again, it will be after the weekend now before I can have a look, but will let you know.
Cheers
Frank
If nothing is coming out of the alternator, tested at the rear of the alternator with the engine running, that suggests it is knackered.I have ordered some 100amp fuses, so hopefully that will be the issue.
The AA looked at what was coming out of the alternator and there wasn't anything, what would it read if the fuse had gone?
Anyway, thanks once again, it will be after the weekend now before I can have a look, but will let you know.
Cheers
Frank
It is 5 minutes work to remove the alternator (pop the belt off by using a bar to move the tensioner, then unbolt and disconnect the alternator), and then go to an auto electrician to get it tested.
Or test it yourself with a multimeter on the car with the engine running
Not sure when the 100 amp fuses were introduced, but early Chimaeras don't have one and yours is a 94, which is earlier than most.
Believe me, a lot of time can be spent looking for it if it doesn't exist and also, a note for the future, the alarm wiring is different should people start talking hot start kits/rewiring.
Regarding the heat, it could be the heater valve stuck open, either through lack of use or adjustment. It's a small valve mounted under the dash on the passenger side and connected with a wire to the dial on the dash. Not a difficult job to check or change but extremely fiddly.
Entirely your choice but a fiver off eBay or five times that from VW. Personally I did it twice and wish I had bought the genuine article first time as the pattern part was brittle and I encouraged it into position...
Good luck and enjoy! There is a lot of knowledge and help here
Believe me, a lot of time can be spent looking for it if it doesn't exist and also, a note for the future, the alarm wiring is different should people start talking hot start kits/rewiring.
Regarding the heat, it could be the heater valve stuck open, either through lack of use or adjustment. It's a small valve mounted under the dash on the passenger side and connected with a wire to the dial on the dash. Not a difficult job to check or change but extremely fiddly.
Entirely your choice but a fiver off eBay or five times that from VW. Personally I did it twice and wish I had bought the genuine article first time as the pattern part was brittle and I encouraged it into position...
Good luck and enjoy! There is a lot of knowledge and help here
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