Throttle cable replacement
Throttle cable replacement
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Discussion

angus337

Original Poster:

622 posts

232 months

Tuesday 8th August 2017
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Think I was getting carried away yesterday with the gret sound of my new clive F y piece combined with the existing ACT cherry bomb exhaust.

Ended up with a snapped throttle cable. Thanks to the excellent help from the AA man we managed to thread through a new cable and implement a temporary fix with a connector block. Which was good enough to get me home.

Threading through the new cable took a bit of effort so I think the outer sheath may be corroded and I've ordered a complete cable

Presumably it's easiest to remove the plenum to fit the throttle end, however the pedal end looks like a real PITA. Any tips on this? did try the search but didn't find much info.


QBee

22,097 posts

167 months

Wednesday 9th August 2017
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Tip number one - all PITA jobs should be booked in to your friendly TVR specialist, who will do in 10 minutes what will take you 10 hours and cause loss of enjoyment of your pride and joy.....and the car too. He will know the quick way and will have any odd and special tools required.

Englishman

2,251 posts

233 months

Wednesday 9th August 2017
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angus337 said:
the pedal end looks like a real PITA. Any tips on this? did try the search but didn't find much info.
Assuming the Chim is the same as a Griff, it is a PITA!! Besides the end of my throttle being closed tight preventing the cable being removed easily, it was also superglued in, which, I have now been told, was often the practice from the factory. In the end I took the throttle pedal out of the pedal box, itself a PITA, to remove the old cable end. A few years ago now, but I don't recall any issues the engine end and I didn't remove the plenum.

Sardonicus

19,313 posts

244 months

Wednesday 9th August 2017
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The last one of these I changed I charged the guy an hours labour (Griffith) I didnt remove the plenum either he had gone through 2 previously eek because no one had taken the trouble to make sure the stop was functioning correctly thus not straining the cable on full throttle rolleyes one of the easier jobs on these cars IMO

Hedgehopper

1,542 posts

267 months

Wednesday 9th August 2017
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Helps if you remove the seat first and raise the steering column on its adjuster.

angus337

Original Poster:

622 posts

232 months

Thursday 10th August 2017
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Cable arrived today, so decided to have a go after work.

Engine end disconnected by removing the bracket on the side of the plenum. Also managed to get the cable disconnected from the pedal. Just can't figure out how to get the plastic end fitting out that connects to the bracket behind the pedal. is it just a case of pushing it through, or do I need to remove the bracket from the pedal box?

Gave up in the end and ran new battery cable from the alternator to 100A fuse, fuse to starter and starter back to battery, which was surprisingly straight forward.

angus337

Original Poster:

622 posts

232 months

Saturday 12th August 2017
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So managed to fit the cable today. Fairly straight forward in the end.

Managed to get more access by removing the nut that holds on the pedal and sliding the pedal across. Then was able to remove bracket from the pedal box.



Fairly straight forward then to pull the new cable through and reconnect.

Only other problem was slicing my finger open trying to cut the runner grommet to pull the old cable though.

QBee

22,097 posts

167 months

Saturday 12th August 2017
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All car repair jobs done at home require blood to be donated.....smash

Classic Chim

12,424 posts

172 months

Saturday 12th August 2017
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My car has plenty of my DNA in it too smile