Buy refurbed or refurb myself??
Discussion
Hi TVR folks, hoping for some guidance on my first TVR purchase.
I'm shortly going to be on the market for a Chim, most likely a 400 of 400HC, total budget in the £12k-£15k band. To summarise my conundrum is this; do I spend that amount on a low-mileage facelift with much of the usual work done (some nice looking cars at Amore and Fernhurst) or do I buy one that needs the work so it's all newly done and to my specification.
This came up because a guy I know (and trust) has a high mileage (95k) 400HC that he'll let me have for £7k; core chassis is sound but outriggers will need doing, as will the interior. Central TVR will do a body-off chassis clean up and outriggers for £3,500, and full interior re-trim and front respray for £3,000 which would leave £1,500 for new dash and new camshafts.
Would welcome your thoughts on the above.
Cheers.
I'm shortly going to be on the market for a Chim, most likely a 400 of 400HC, total budget in the £12k-£15k band. To summarise my conundrum is this; do I spend that amount on a low-mileage facelift with much of the usual work done (some nice looking cars at Amore and Fernhurst) or do I buy one that needs the work so it's all newly done and to my specification.
This came up because a guy I know (and trust) has a high mileage (95k) 400HC that he'll let me have for £7k; core chassis is sound but outriggers will need doing, as will the interior. Central TVR will do a body-off chassis clean up and outriggers for £3,500, and full interior re-trim and front respray for £3,000 which would leave £1,500 for new dash and new camshafts.
Would welcome your thoughts on the above.
Cheers.
Welcome to the Chimaera dilema. As I see it the plus of having the work done yourself is that you can spec the trim colour(s).
The drawback is waiting while it's done and you may miss an absolute cracker like I did wih Glyyns car. Your lucky in being offered a car than you know. However at the end of the day it has to be YOUR choice.
The drawback is waiting while it's done and you may miss an absolute cracker like I did wih Glyyns car. Your lucky in being offered a car than you know. However at the end of the day it has to be YOUR choice.
It depends on many factors:
1. Do you have the space to do it yourself?
2. Do you have the skills?
3. Do you have the time?
4. Do you have the tools?
5. Do you want to lose valuable driving time whilst you do it yourself?
Pretty much every body-off that I have seen undertaken by an owner has run into 2,3,4 years, (with the exception of one S owning individual that completed it in a matter of a few weeks).
Due to answering no to items 1, 3 & 5 above I entrusted my chassis refurb to Southways. I could not envisage having the car in pieces long-term and not being able to drive it.
1. Do you have the space to do it yourself?
2. Do you have the skills?
3. Do you have the time?
4. Do you have the tools?
5. Do you want to lose valuable driving time whilst you do it yourself?
Pretty much every body-off that I have seen undertaken by an owner has run into 2,3,4 years, (with the exception of one S owning individual that completed it in a matter of a few weeks).
Due to answering no to items 1, 3 & 5 above I entrusted my chassis refurb to Southways. I could not envisage having the car in pieces long-term and not being able to drive it.
Oldred_V8S said:
It depends on many factors:
1. Do you have the space to do it yourself?
2. Do you have the skills?
3. Do you have the time?
4. Do you have the tools?
5. Do you want to lose valuable driving time whilst you do it yourself?
Pretty much every body-off that I have seen undertaken by an owner has run into 2,3,4 years, (with the exception of one S owning individual that completed it in a matter of a few weeks).
Due to answering no to items 1, 3 & 5 above I entrusted my chassis refurb to Southways. I could not envisage having the car in pieces long-term and not being able to drive it.
Yes, no, no, no, no! Hence the reference to CentralTVR; they'd do the body off chassis refurb & outriggers for £3.5k and full interior and front end re-spray for £3,000 so on a £7k purchase that's a total spend of £13.5k. That leaves £1.5k for odds and sods, maybe a new dash, new cams etc.1. Do you have the space to do it yourself?
2. Do you have the skills?
3. Do you have the time?
4. Do you have the tools?
5. Do you want to lose valuable driving time whilst you do it yourself?
Pretty much every body-off that I have seen undertaken by an owner has run into 2,3,4 years, (with the exception of one S owning individual that completed it in a matter of a few weeks).
Due to answering no to items 1, 3 & 5 above I entrusted my chassis refurb to Southways. I could not envisage having the car in pieces long-term and not being able to drive it.
On the flip side Amore have a 4.3 up at £15k which has had most of the above plus an engine strip and rebuild. http://www.amoreautos.co.uk/car-listings/tvr-chima...
Chuck21 said:
Yes, no, no, no, no! Hence the reference to CentralTVR; they'd do the body off chassis refurb & outriggers for £3.5k and full interior and front end re-spray for £3,000 so on a £7k purchase that's a total spend of £13.5k. That leaves £1.5k for odds and sods, maybe a new dash, new cams etc.
On the flip side Amore have a 4.3 up at £15k which has had most of the above plus an engine strip and rebuild. http://www.amoreautos.co.uk/car-listings/tvr-chima...
The Central website lists the costs for a re-trim and a respray at more than you are quoting. £2,900 and £1,100 plus the VAT.On the flip side Amore have a 4.3 up at £15k which has had most of the above plus an engine strip and rebuild. http://www.amoreautos.co.uk/car-listings/tvr-chima...
That Amore one shows that it's pretty much always cheaper to buy a car that's had a lot of work done to it than to pay to have it done yourself. You never get your money back on big ticket restorations. As I'm finding out.
ou sont les biscuits said:
The Central website lists the costs for a re-trim and a respray at more than you are quoting. £2,900 and £1,100 plus the VAT.
That Amore one shows that it's pretty much always cheaper to buy a car that's had a lot of work done to it than to pay to have it done yourself. You never get your money back on big ticket restorations. As I'm finding out.
It's under a separate 'restoration' menu, £2,995 all-in: http://www.centraltvr.com/product/partial-restorat...That Amore one shows that it's pretty much always cheaper to buy a car that's had a lot of work done to it than to pay to have it done yourself. You never get your money back on big ticket restorations. As I'm finding out.
It's an intresting problem, buy cheap and rebuild or spend a lot more money sourcing a nice original low mileage example!
Buying cheap,
Basically after 90,000 miles, the engines Internals will be tired - the V8 lump would possibly benefit fom a rebore, crank regrind etc. The Suspension could be very tired. The Electrics (Alternator/Starter Motor may need a refurb etc. (these are costs that may not have been thought about)
After having spent all of the money doing the car up, how long would you keep it for. When you come to sell it, what would a 90,000 mile car be worth.
How easy would it be to sell the car in the future considering the mileage could be in excess of 100,000 miles.
Buying an expensive Low Mileage.
Hopefully this car would not need much money spent on it, baring general maintenance. Should you dcide to sell it in a couple of years - the Sale should be easier and perhaps it's purchase value still retained due to it's low mileage.
It does not really matter which route that you take, as long as you enjoy the car during your period of ownership!
Buying cheap,
Basically after 90,000 miles, the engines Internals will be tired - the V8 lump would possibly benefit fom a rebore, crank regrind etc. The Suspension could be very tired. The Electrics (Alternator/Starter Motor may need a refurb etc. (these are costs that may not have been thought about)
After having spent all of the money doing the car up, how long would you keep it for. When you come to sell it, what would a 90,000 mile car be worth.
How easy would it be to sell the car in the future considering the mileage could be in excess of 100,000 miles.
Buying an expensive Low Mileage.
Hopefully this car would not need much money spent on it, baring general maintenance. Should you dcide to sell it in a couple of years - the Sale should be easier and perhaps it's purchase value still retained due to it's low mileage.
It does not really matter which route that you take, as long as you enjoy the car during your period of ownership!
It is almost always cheaper to buy one that has been done.
However, you are buying someone elses idea of what is 'right'. If you're looking for a keeper then I say buy one needing work and build it as you want it.
It is highly likely that you'll 'tire' of the 4.0 and seek more power after a while so bear that in mind.
The RV8 is a strong old plugger that can run seemingly fine with major issues. They can also detonate without warning.
So, the most important thing to do when buying a TVR is to buy on condition. Ignore mileage, dealer stamps etc.... all the stuff you would normally look for. Buy it on the condition of the car and the knowledge of the seller.
There are plenty of 'project cars' out there so, if you're looking for a keeper, I'd look at those first.
Skies the limit for mods. Big valve heads and induction mods release oddles of power. After that capacity increase. Better ECU and loom help with reliability and smoothness. Interior and exterior colours are limitless.
However, you are buying someone elses idea of what is 'right'. If you're looking for a keeper then I say buy one needing work and build it as you want it.
It is highly likely that you'll 'tire' of the 4.0 and seek more power after a while so bear that in mind.
The RV8 is a strong old plugger that can run seemingly fine with major issues. They can also detonate without warning.
So, the most important thing to do when buying a TVR is to buy on condition. Ignore mileage, dealer stamps etc.... all the stuff you would normally look for. Buy it on the condition of the car and the knowledge of the seller.
There are plenty of 'project cars' out there so, if you're looking for a keeper, I'd look at those first.
Skies the limit for mods. Big valve heads and induction mods release oddles of power. After that capacity increase. Better ECU and loom help with reliability and smoothness. Interior and exterior colours are limitless.
mk1fan said:
It is almost always cheaper to buy one that has been done.
However, you are buying someone elses idea of what is 'right'. If you're looking for a keeper then I say buy one needing work and build it as you want it.
It is highly likely that you'll 'tire' of the 4.0 and seek more power after a while so bear that in mind.
The RV8 is a strong old plugger that can run seemingly fine with major issues. They can also detonate without warning.
So, the most important thing to do when buying a TVR is to buy on condition. Ignore mileage, dealer stamps etc.... all the stuff you would normally look for. Buy it on the condition of the car and the knowledge of the seller.
There are plenty of 'project cars' out there so, if you're looking for a keeper, I'd look at those first.
Skies the limit for mods. Big valve heads and induction mods release oddles of power. After that capacity increase. Better ECU and loom help with reliability and smoothness. Interior and exterior colours are limitless.
Thanks CitizenSmith and Mk1Fan for the replies, genuinely really helpful. I'll take a look at my friend's car, he's handy with a spanner but I know the car has been laid up for a while which isn't great, and the mileage is a consideration. If a car comes up for £15k that's had engine and chassis work, and fits the rest of my criteria (smart interior, lower mileage etc) then that could be the winner, particularly with a warranty. Blue exterior (all factory shades seem to be nice) with cream/tan interior would do me fine :-). You've given me plenty to consider in any case!However, you are buying someone elses idea of what is 'right'. If you're looking for a keeper then I say buy one needing work and build it as you want it.
It is highly likely that you'll 'tire' of the 4.0 and seek more power after a while so bear that in mind.
The RV8 is a strong old plugger that can run seemingly fine with major issues. They can also detonate without warning.
So, the most important thing to do when buying a TVR is to buy on condition. Ignore mileage, dealer stamps etc.... all the stuff you would normally look for. Buy it on the condition of the car and the knowledge of the seller.
There are plenty of 'project cars' out there so, if you're looking for a keeper, I'd look at those first.
Skies the limit for mods. Big valve heads and induction mods release oddles of power. After that capacity increase. Better ECU and loom help with reliability and smoothness. Interior and exterior colours are limitless.
Brithunter said:
Welcome to the Chimaera dilema. As I see it the plus of having the work done yourself is that you can spec the trim colour(s).
The drawback is waiting while it's done and you may miss an absolute cracker like I did wih Glyyns car. Your lucky in being offered a car than you know. However at the end of the day it has to be YOUR choice.
I'm the one who bought it. I sold my last Chimaera 3 months ago and got the yearning for another one. However, no car is without issues unless it has bee freshly totally refurbed. The drawback is waiting while it's done and you may miss an absolute cracker like I did wih Glyyns car. Your lucky in being offered a car than you know. However at the end of the day it has to be YOUR choice.
Yes, the outriggers are done, it had a respray last year and the Lupo headlamps are a bonus. Canems makes it smoother but still the occasional 'cough.'
But, the driver's seat is badly worn, the wishbones and shocks and springs all have quite a bit of surface rust (winter task), the warning lamps above the buttons aren't working, and I discovered last night the instrument lights aren't working. Yes I know about the button by my left knee and it has no effect. Had to order an ISO connector because he is keeping the stereo and the fitters cut out out the old one.
The dash has cracked and the radio panel is a nasty plastic imitation (more winter work!!)
Some of the centre trim I've discovered isn't even screwed down. Probably since new carpets were fitted in 2006.
For me its a no-brainer. If you can find one you really like with all the work done, with low to medium mileage then buy it. There is no way on this planet that you will keep within your budget by buying either your friend's or another 'doer up'. Yes, you will pay to have the chassis refurbed but while doing it the repairer will call you to say they have found the wiring harness is in poor condition or the suspension arms are corroded or the springs are tired or the shockers are weak and so on and on and on......
The cars can easily become money pits and the only time I would advise buying a cheapie is if you can do all the work yourself. Let someone else pay for the car you want i.e. find the one with the chassis done by a reputable TVR dealer, the interior refreshed, engine updated etc.
You never get back what you put in, no matter how good you do it. Macdeb has recently sold his car which was one of the best around and one of the most powerful but he put almost twice the cost of the sale price into it. There are many on here in the same boat!!!
The cars can easily become money pits and the only time I would advise buying a cheapie is if you can do all the work yourself. Let someone else pay for the car you want i.e. find the one with the chassis done by a reputable TVR dealer, the interior refreshed, engine updated etc.
You never get back what you put in, no matter how good you do it. Macdeb has recently sold his car which was one of the best around and one of the most powerful but he put almost twice the cost of the sale price into it. There are many on here in the same boat!!!
If I was looking for a Chim, then I would be looking for a Late low milage 450 in Standard Trim (1999 onwards). Since these car are reasnobly quick and the later ones are well sorted by now.
Modified cars always carry issues when trying to insure them, plus the buyers market is more restricted due to the modifications that have been carried out - regardless of how good they are.
It does not matter what TVR you end up buying, I am sure that you will feel exhilerated when driving it! "Smiles per Miles"!
Modified cars always carry issues when trying to insure them, plus the buyers market is more restricted due to the modifications that have been carried out - regardless of how good they are.
It does not matter what TVR you end up buying, I am sure that you will feel exhilerated when driving it! "Smiles per Miles"!
It is possible to recover costs if values continue to rise. I bought my last one in 2013 for £6950 with 80k miles on it, and there were cheaper ones about. I paid to get a 2000 model with FSH.
It cost almost £3000 in maintenance and service costs to cover only 6000 miles over 3 1/2 years. And it was still on the original outriggers, hood and interior (being black helped there!). Fortunately for me due to rising values, I got over £10k for it in May because of the enormous history. It had reached the point where it need a new cam, new headlamps, a new rear window (minimum) and so would have needed over £2k spending on it in the near future IMHO to just stand still, if I'd kept it. Paintwork had chips and scratches too.
2 months later, I had the bug and started looking again!
By buying one the that has had the outriggers done, CANEMS and a respray, I should be able, as was pointed out, do most other things myself. It's the labour costs on jobs you can't so yourself that become enormously expensive.
Even if it takes a while, do as much as you can yourself, unless money is no object, or you intend to NEVER sell it. But I've heard that a lot this year....
Incidentally, CANEMS and Lupo headlamps were recorded as mods but made no difference to the insurance premium.
It cost almost £3000 in maintenance and service costs to cover only 6000 miles over 3 1/2 years. And it was still on the original outriggers, hood and interior (being black helped there!). Fortunately for me due to rising values, I got over £10k for it in May because of the enormous history. It had reached the point where it need a new cam, new headlamps, a new rear window (minimum) and so would have needed over £2k spending on it in the near future IMHO to just stand still, if I'd kept it. Paintwork had chips and scratches too.
2 months later, I had the bug and started looking again!
By buying one the that has had the outriggers done, CANEMS and a respray, I should be able, as was pointed out, do most other things myself. It's the labour costs on jobs you can't so yourself that become enormously expensive.
Even if it takes a while, do as much as you can yourself, unless money is no object, or you intend to NEVER sell it. But I've heard that a lot this year....
Incidentally, CANEMS and Lupo headlamps were recorded as mods but made no difference to the insurance premium.
ianwayne said:
Brithunter said:
Welcome to the Chimaera dilema. As I see it the plus of having the work done yourself is that you can spec the trim colour(s).
The drawback is waiting while it's done and you may miss an absolute cracker like I did wih Glyyns car. Your lucky in being offered a car than you know. However at the end of the day it has to be YOUR choice.
I'm the one who bought it. I sold my last Chimaera 3 months ago and got the yearning for another one. However, no car is without issues unless it has bee freshly totally refurbed. The drawback is waiting while it's done and you may miss an absolute cracker like I did wih Glyyns car. Your lucky in being offered a car than you know. However at the end of the day it has to be YOUR choice.
Yes, the outriggers are done, it had a respray last year and the Lupo headlamps are a bonus. Canems makes it smoother but still the occasional 'cough.'
But, the driver's seat is badly worn, the wishbones and shocks and springs all have quite a bit of surface rust (winter task), the warning lamps above the buttons aren't working, and I discovered last night the instrument lights aren't working. Yes I know about the button by my left knee and it has no effect. Had to order an ISO connector because he is keeping the stereo and the fitters cut out out the old one.
The dash has cracked and the radio panel is a nasty plastic imitation (more winter work!!)
Some of the centre trim I've discovered isn't even screwed down. Probably since new carpets were fitted in 2006.
portzi said:
So ones man's cracking car is still full of niggles and spending cash and time? IMHO of course.
I think you need to consider what the car was purchased for! It is a cracking car but none are without fault.
Niggles isn't like lifting the body or re spraying or decent ecu though is it.
A few quid!
Not my car, I passed on what I knew about a car I'd stood and looked at, I wasn't buying it!!!
And I informed the person considering it to get an independent valuation anyway.
Your not going to get a perfect car for 12-15K or are you,,,,,,
portzi said:
So ones man's cracking car is still full of niggles and spending cash and time? IMHO of course.
Yes. Niggles. But as I said, it's stuff I can do myself, hopefully. I don't have the facilities to weld, respray, or the inclination to be honest! I'd been to see several in the last few weeks and none of them needed nothing doing. Even the supercharged one in Devon, which is a piece of engineering work. Stunning in rolex blue too, but a rev counter that didn't read properly, start button that had been a poor mod and now did nothing and rust on the MAIN chassis rails. Had to sit with foot on throttle for a minute to warn up before it would idle without assistance!! This one may only be 4.0 litre, but I can start if from cold, it idles at 1000 rpm and I can drive off immediately with no spluttering, like my last one used to do.
Didn't try a dealer of course, but if they truly are immaculate and need nothing doing, that's why they are commanding high prices now.
When I embarked on my restoration last year, I bought a cheap(ish) one in the full knowledge I would be spending money on it to bring it up to the condition I wanted.
I was under no illusion that this would be the most cost-effective way, however, it did mean that I could make sure that things were done as I wanted them. I had no plan to sell anytime soon (and still don't) and embarked on a series of work that would bring the car back into good condition and be a fun drive along the way.
I bought a 500 from Fernhurst last July, sold without warranty for about £6-7k under what a decent one would have cost. I then had Neil Garners carry out a full body off chassis refurb, new Nitrons, clutch, heat shields, pretty much everything under the skin was replaced whilst it was in bits...
As others have mentioned things never go according to plan, so then I also ended up having the engine rebuilt whilst it was in due to camshaft being in a poor state and the fact that the engine was out so made sense from a labour perspective.
Finally, I had the hood replaced by Dave the Trimmer.
This all came to quite a bit more than a very tidy 500 would have cost, but I know it's all been done well so I'm very happy.
There is still quite a bit to do, but I'm happy that it's 'structurally' sound now and can enjoy it whilst I save up again for 'optional' things like respray and retrim. I'd also like to have the MBE set up at some point as that really appeals.
As I said earlier, if you're not in a hurry to realise the money back from the car and intend to keep it, then I'd say go for it
I'd certainly do the same again.
I was under no illusion that this would be the most cost-effective way, however, it did mean that I could make sure that things were done as I wanted them. I had no plan to sell anytime soon (and still don't) and embarked on a series of work that would bring the car back into good condition and be a fun drive along the way.
I bought a 500 from Fernhurst last July, sold without warranty for about £6-7k under what a decent one would have cost. I then had Neil Garners carry out a full body off chassis refurb, new Nitrons, clutch, heat shields, pretty much everything under the skin was replaced whilst it was in bits...
As others have mentioned things never go according to plan, so then I also ended up having the engine rebuilt whilst it was in due to camshaft being in a poor state and the fact that the engine was out so made sense from a labour perspective.
Finally, I had the hood replaced by Dave the Trimmer.
This all came to quite a bit more than a very tidy 500 would have cost, but I know it's all been done well so I'm very happy.
There is still quite a bit to do, but I'm happy that it's 'structurally' sound now and can enjoy it whilst I save up again for 'optional' things like respray and retrim. I'd also like to have the MBE set up at some point as that really appeals.
As I said earlier, if you're not in a hurry to realise the money back from the car and intend to keep it, then I'd say go for it
I'd certainly do the same again.I can't disagree with any of the above and creating your own car in your own vision is great.
You only have to ask one or two questions and that's mainly will you be doing all or most of the work yourself.
If the answer is no you only have one good choice available
Raise your budget to 17-22k and get the right car with all or most of the mods or fashions you want.
it will save you a lot of time and energy and theoretically you'll have a car that can be now driven, looked after properly and live for years to come.
That budget might seem high to some but if your car has been put together by the known specialists at great expense but also considerable skill ( reliable )
It's likely cost more than any of these asking prices by often many thousands.
So if you buy a 12k car and refresh the engine and ECU etc etc etc sort your alarm out and turn it into a new looking car with fresh Tvr bodyshoppe respray new wishbones and bushes,
What's that going to cost, oh don't forget the new roof while your at it and maybe better shocks,, get my drift.
Buy a car off a loving owner who knows and loves these cars or a dealer who can find such cars or pay a lot more for the privilege by doing it via other experts.
If your a dab hand engineer with a full tool box and plenty of time, buy a tired girl and do it for half the cost but you need high end mechanical and bodywork/upholstery skills let alone good electrical knowledge. IMHO
You only have to ask one or two questions and that's mainly will you be doing all or most of the work yourself.
If the answer is no you only have one good choice available
Raise your budget to 17-22k and get the right car with all or most of the mods or fashions you want.
it will save you a lot of time and energy and theoretically you'll have a car that can be now driven, looked after properly and live for years to come.
That budget might seem high to some but if your car has been put together by the known specialists at great expense but also considerable skill ( reliable )
It's likely cost more than any of these asking prices by often many thousands.
So if you buy a 12k car and refresh the engine and ECU etc etc etc sort your alarm out and turn it into a new looking car with fresh Tvr bodyshoppe respray new wishbones and bushes,
What's that going to cost, oh don't forget the new roof while your at it and maybe better shocks,, get my drift.
Buy a car off a loving owner who knows and loves these cars or a dealer who can find such cars or pay a lot more for the privilege by doing it via other experts.
If your a dab hand engineer with a full tool box and plenty of time, buy a tired girl and do it for half the cost but you need high end mechanical and bodywork/upholstery skills let alone good electrical knowledge. IMHO
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 10th August 23:12
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 10th August 23:15
plfrench said:
When I embarked on my restoration last year, I bought a cheap(ish) one in the full knowledge I would be spending money on it to bring it up to the condition I wanted.
I was under no illusion that this would be the most cost-effective way, however, it did mean that I could make sure that things were done as I wanted them. I had no plan to sell anytime soon (and still don't) and embarked on a series of work that would bring the car back into good condition and be a fun drive along the way.
I bought a 500 from Fernhurst last July, sold without warranty for about £6-7k under what a decent one would have cost. I then had Neil Garners carry out a full body off chassis refurb, new Nitrons, clutch, heat shields, pretty much everything under the skin was replaced whilst it was in bits...
As others have mentioned things never go according to plan, so then I also ended up having the engine rebuilt whilst it was in due to camshaft being in a poor state and the fact that the engine was out so made sense from a labour perspective.
Finally, I had the hood replaced by Dave the Trimmer.
This all came to quite a bit more than a very tidy 500 would have cost, but I know it's all been done well so I'm very happy.
There is still quite a bit to do, but I'm happy that it's 'structurally' sound now and can enjoy it whilst I save up again for 'optional' things like respray and retrim. I'd also like to have the MBE set up at some point as that really appeals.
As I said earlier, if you're not in a hurry to realise the money back from the car and intend to keep it, then I'd say go for it I'd certainly do the same again.
Thanks, that's all good to hear. If I may ask what was your total outlay to get the car as you wanted it? I'm also curious to know the cost of an engine rebuild just in case that's on the cards! Cheers.I was under no illusion that this would be the most cost-effective way, however, it did mean that I could make sure that things were done as I wanted them. I had no plan to sell anytime soon (and still don't) and embarked on a series of work that would bring the car back into good condition and be a fun drive along the way.
I bought a 500 from Fernhurst last July, sold without warranty for about £6-7k under what a decent one would have cost. I then had Neil Garners carry out a full body off chassis refurb, new Nitrons, clutch, heat shields, pretty much everything under the skin was replaced whilst it was in bits...
As others have mentioned things never go according to plan, so then I also ended up having the engine rebuilt whilst it was in due to camshaft being in a poor state and the fact that the engine was out so made sense from a labour perspective.
Finally, I had the hood replaced by Dave the Trimmer.
This all came to quite a bit more than a very tidy 500 would have cost, but I know it's all been done well so I'm very happy.
There is still quite a bit to do, but I'm happy that it's 'structurally' sound now and can enjoy it whilst I save up again for 'optional' things like respray and retrim. I'd also like to have the MBE set up at some point as that really appeals.
As I said earlier, if you're not in a hurry to realise the money back from the car and intend to keep it, then I'd say go for it
I'd certainly do the same again.Well it's not finished yet but around £24k so far... The engine was about £2800 IIRC.
A bit scary when I write it down like that, but I'm happy, and pleased it's had things done how I wanted them to be done.
As mentioned before I've no plan on selling it, otherwise I probably wouldn't have spent so much. Not planning on spending anything major on it for a couple of years now, just routine bits and bobs (fingers crossed).
but around £24k so far... The engine was about £2800 IIRC. A bit scary when I write it down like that, but I'm happy, and pleased it's had things done how I wanted them to be done.
As mentioned before I've no plan on selling it, otherwise I probably wouldn't have spent so much. Not planning on spending anything major on it for a couple of years now, just routine bits and bobs (fingers crossed).
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