AVO's NITRONs etc etc
Discussion
improved suspension, others with more experience can elaborate.
My understanding is that nitrons are more expensive and the top level ones can be adjusted for track/field [see joolsspeed's site], and the avos have a lifetime guarantee and are cheaper with similar effect tho I didn't realise they were adjustable until now.
and telepathetically timely as I think the ride in mine could be radically improved...
...anyone recommend either one over the other?
J
My understanding is that nitrons are more expensive and the top level ones can be adjusted for track/field [see joolsspeed's site], and the avos have a lifetime guarantee and are cheaper with similar effect tho I didn't realise they were adjustable until now.
and telepathetically timely as I think the ride in mine could be radically improved...
...anyone recommend either one over the other?
J
You can search and search - nothing beats "trying" them.
I changed to AVOs because the originals were "tired", but also had all bushes replaced (Tks Pennisula)
Complete change in handling, but, ride quality no better (almost worse) however, until Jools recommended linear springs for AVOs/Nitrons rather than TVR Progressives. Ride quality now more acceptable, even on track settings.
Did a couple of track days and I have a well sorted car. Both AVOs and Nitrons are adjustable for road track or whatever you want. Its just that Nitrons have a MUCH more progressive adjustment of their whole range. AVOs are OK for the first half of the adjustment (up to about 15 clicks), the rest is too severe (hard/damped/stiff) to make any use of.
I believe that Nitrons give a much better ride quality as well as better control overall. You pays your money and AVOs work for me but may consider selling them and upgrading to Nitrons. Just don't forget to replace your suspension bushes when upgrading from Std dampers, that alone will make quite a difference to most Chimaeras.
Cheers
Trev McM
I changed to AVOs because the originals were "tired", but also had all bushes replaced (Tks Pennisula)
Complete change in handling, but, ride quality no better (almost worse) however, until Jools recommended linear springs for AVOs/Nitrons rather than TVR Progressives. Ride quality now more acceptable, even on track settings.
Did a couple of track days and I have a well sorted car. Both AVOs and Nitrons are adjustable for road track or whatever you want. Its just that Nitrons have a MUCH more progressive adjustment of their whole range. AVOs are OK for the first half of the adjustment (up to about 15 clicks), the rest is too severe (hard/damped/stiff) to make any use of.
I believe that Nitrons give a much better ride quality as well as better control overall. You pays your money and AVOs work for me but may consider selling them and upgrading to Nitrons. Just don't forget to replace your suspension bushes when upgrading from Std dampers, that alone will make quite a difference to most Chimaeras.
Cheers
Trev McM
I got the impression the Nitrons were your best bet, more expensive yes, and I gathered dealers sometimes benefited selling other types of dampers with more profit in them, given the choice.
However, I dont recall hearing anything bad about avos.
Shouldnt you be saving for a Cerbie though mate
However, I dont recall hearing anything bad about avos.
Shouldnt you be saving for a Cerbie though mate
Avos: 4 dampers + springs, fitted with geometry setup = £800ish (including VAT) from Austec
Nitrons start at around £250 a corner, plus fitting plus geometry plus VAT. Comes in closer to £1400+.
I know I'm not going to keep the Chim forever so the extra £600+ is not worth it. Just the change to AVOs' has been fantastic.
Rob
Nitrons start at around £250 a corner, plus fitting plus geometry plus VAT. Comes in closer to £1400+.
I know I'm not going to keep the Chim forever so the extra £600+ is not worth it. Just the change to AVOs' has been fantastic.
Rob
yup, my advice to everyone is to buy them and fit them yourselves (especially the Gaz dampers), will save you a heap of money and you'll be confident that your car will be performing at it's absolute best. no point going for aftermarket upgrades and just letting any old tom dick or harry at the specialists fit them and make sure everything is ok. I mean what could be better than doing it all yourself, who could possibly be more qualified than the owner.?
I'm going to try open heart surgery next week, I mean how hard can it be? All i need is a knife and needle and thread. My heart's always been a bit dicky, can't possibly make it any worse surely?
as an aside, I make quite a good living putting right the myriad mistakes made by home-fit mechanics and also the cock-ups made by other dealers etc.
go for it
I'm going to try open heart surgery next week, I mean how hard can it be? All i need is a knife and needle and thread. My heart's always been a bit dicky, can't possibly make it any worse surely?
as an aside, I make quite a good living putting right the myriad mistakes made by home-fit mechanics and also the cock-ups made by other dealers etc.
go for it
joospeed said:
snippity.........I'm going to try open heart surgery next week, I mean how hard can it be? All i need is a knife and needle and thread...............snip
Thought you said brain surgery ??? That way you can "think" you've completed open heart surgery and replaced it with a leven sustitute???
Keep up the good work - linerarily !!
Trev McM
joospeed said:
yup, my advice to everyone is to buy them and fit them yourselves (especially the Gaz dampers), will save you a heap of money and you'll be confident that your car will be performing at it's absolute best. no point going for aftermarket upgrades and just letting any old tom dick or harry at the specialists fit them and make sure everything is ok. I mean what could be better than doing it all yourself, who could possibly be more qualified than the owner.?
I'm going to try open heart surgery next week, I mean how hard can it be? All i need is a knife and needle and thread. My heart's always been a bit dicky, can't possibly make it any worse surely?
as an aside, I make quite a good living putting right the myriad mistakes made by home-fit mechanics and also the cock-ups made by other dealers etc.
go for it
So fitting shocks is comparable to open heart surgery is it? I don't think so.
Maybe fixing SP6's is a bit closer
Well it only takes a couple of bolts to fit a damper so anyone can do it. And if you were just replacing like with like it's a no-brainer. But once you start working with aftermarket adjustable dampers there are an awful lot of things that can go wrong. Specifying the correct spring and damper rates and lengths, bump stops, setting the ride height correctly, correcting the geometry afterwards, fitting the correct bump stops and adjusting the damper rate all takes a fair bit of doing. If you just grab a damper off the shelf that looks roughly the right size and shape and bung it on the car, you can end up in a right pickle. At which point you go running to Jools where he finds you've ordered the wrong spec parts and you wish you'd gone to him in the first place ...
GreenV8S said:
Well it only takes a couple of bolts to fit a damper so anyone can do it. And if you were just replacing like with like it's a no-brainer. But once you start working with aftermarket adjustable dampers there are an awful lot of things that can go wrong. Specifying the correct spring and damper rates and lengths, bump stops, setting the ride height correctly, correcting the geometry afterwards, fitting the correct bump stops and adjusting the damper rate all takes a fair bit of doing. If you just grab a damper off the shelf that looks roughly the right size and shape and bung it on the car, you can end up in a right pickle. At which point you go running to Jools where he finds you've ordered the wrong spec parts and you wish you'd gone to him in the first place ...
Yes I agree that there is a need for specialists, particularly if you want your car to handle really well but your ordinary daily driver or weekend cruiser like me can get away with a bit of a variance, as long as you don't do something stupid like puttng 500lb springs on the back and 250lb on the front.
Yes my S3 did handle better with slightly stiffer springs on the front and yes making sure the car was levelish and not 3" higher at the back was probably important but that isn't difficult.
What I'm saying is that if a TVR dealer sells you 320lb for the back and 300lb for the front(which they do or at least some of them)as long as you then put a tape on the outriggers and make sure the car is level the car will handle ok, it could be better but the average driver probably wouldn't notice the difference.
>> Edited by bugsy on Friday 8th April 05:05
joospeed said:
Wouldn't notice the difference until you have to take avoiding action for an unexpected hazard in the road maybe ..
badly set up car .. hit obstacle, damage car.
well set up car .. avoid obstacle, save car and feel like a hero.
Jools, we are not talking track day driving here we are talking about daily or weekend drivers on a budget.
Practicalities(sp) come into play.
1) What type of roads do you drive on because having a fast road set up on poor roads is not very comfortable.
2) If you live in an ara with speed bumps all over the place the ride height might have to be set a bit higher than is perfect for handling.
3) Cost can be a factor, even the budget adjustable set ups are not far off £500, then setting up the car on a laser is £100.
We are talking degrees of handling in your case and what is perfect is not allways practical or affordable.
one scenario to consider.
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