Getting my 1989 S2 on the road and working out the kinks
Discussion
Hi everybody,
I did something a few weeks ago.
On an impulse...partly fueled by our friend's exciting idea that we should drive to Le Mans with them in 2018, and partly knowing that I would be following Medusa in a backup car, I decided that backup car is going to be a beautiful, sexy, and convertible TVR.
This one came up for sale.
I may have bought it!
That's my "I can't believe I just did that" face.
So this beauty came with a few tiny, niggly and a few moderate problems. The important thing for me is that the chassis is sound and the body work is pretty good. Also, the outriggers have been repaired in the past.
The headlights were out, but happily, two sets plus loads of extra bulbs were in the boot.
Popping them back in proved a little tricky but not as problematic as it might have been.
We next tackled the wiring.
There was a radio wired in the car with the aerial laying in the boot and, (luckily), the face plate for the radio in the glove compartment. We wondered why they weren't in place and why the radio didn't work, so we investigated the wiring.
As it turned out, the radio, the hazards, the horn, the clock and the interior light had no power going to them.
We tested all the fuses in situ, and they all appeared to be fine; getting a beep on the circuit tester for each one. We traced the blue and purple wire to the radio, fed it 12 volts and everything started working. Then we tested for fuses with 12 volts permanent feed and found one with 12 volts on one side and 3 volts on the other. Assuming a hairline fracture, we put a new fuse in and everything worked.
Well, that seemed all sorted.
Time for the MOT
R kindly volunteered to go thru that stomach clenching process for me so I didn't have to.
And he took these:
Passed!!!!
I'm on the open road!
With a slightly worried passenger!
I'm so happy to have this beautiful little car.
Next projects will be the not so small ones.
The roof tangs need hoiking out and replacing so the roof panels fit properly,
By the way, does anyone know where we can get the little base which fits under the roof clips?
Also, the speedo doesn't seem to work.
I'm considering the shorter gear shift modification, so we will tackle the speedo then. Might be a no big deal, might be a bigger deal than we think. Time will tell.
Another big ticket will be the door hinges. The driver's door has a bit of up and down play and the paintwork adjacent to the top hinge has the telltale cracking denoting a seized up and spinning brass captive nut.
R thinks at least both top hinge nuts need repairing. But it's ok for now; I can still use the car.
In the meantime, R's thinking of turbo chargers.
I did something a few weeks ago.
On an impulse...partly fueled by our friend's exciting idea that we should drive to Le Mans with them in 2018, and partly knowing that I would be following Medusa in a backup car, I decided that backup car is going to be a beautiful, sexy, and convertible TVR.
This one came up for sale.
I may have bought it!
That's my "I can't believe I just did that" face.
So this beauty came with a few tiny, niggly and a few moderate problems. The important thing for me is that the chassis is sound and the body work is pretty good. Also, the outriggers have been repaired in the past.
The headlights were out, but happily, two sets plus loads of extra bulbs were in the boot.
Popping them back in proved a little tricky but not as problematic as it might have been.
We next tackled the wiring.
There was a radio wired in the car with the aerial laying in the boot and, (luckily), the face plate for the radio in the glove compartment. We wondered why they weren't in place and why the radio didn't work, so we investigated the wiring.
As it turned out, the radio, the hazards, the horn, the clock and the interior light had no power going to them.
We tested all the fuses in situ, and they all appeared to be fine; getting a beep on the circuit tester for each one. We traced the blue and purple wire to the radio, fed it 12 volts and everything started working. Then we tested for fuses with 12 volts permanent feed and found one with 12 volts on one side and 3 volts on the other. Assuming a hairline fracture, we put a new fuse in and everything worked.
Well, that seemed all sorted.
Time for the MOT
R kindly volunteered to go thru that stomach clenching process for me so I didn't have to.
And he took these:
Passed!!!!
I'm on the open road!
With a slightly worried passenger!
I'm so happy to have this beautiful little car.
Next projects will be the not so small ones.
The roof tangs need hoiking out and replacing so the roof panels fit properly,
By the way, does anyone know where we can get the little base which fits under the roof clips?
Also, the speedo doesn't seem to work.
I'm considering the shorter gear shift modification, so we will tackle the speedo then. Might be a no big deal, might be a bigger deal than we think. Time will tell.
Another big ticket will be the door hinges. The driver's door has a bit of up and down play and the paintwork adjacent to the top hinge has the telltale cracking denoting a seized up and spinning brass captive nut.
R thinks at least both top hinge nuts need repairing. But it's ok for now; I can still use the car.
In the meantime, R's thinking of turbo chargers.
Might be worth considering a folding 'surrey' roof rather than spending time on the tang replacement and clips, particularly as you are intending touring with your new S.
Not cheap but easier to stow!!
Here is their website; have a word with Roger.
http://www.cambria-cirrus.com/
Not cheap but easier to stow!!
Here is their website; have a word with Roger.
http://www.cambria-cirrus.com/
As mentioned above the 'Surrey' roof is good alternative plus free's up the boot space. Regarding the door thats dropped, if it is the bobbin knackered inside the fibreglass then its not a cheap fix (just had mine done) but well worth it as i haven't got to workout my arms lifting the door to open it now. Anyway lovely S, same interior as mine 
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