2007 Vantage driver side window not working
Discussion
Hi all,
I used my V8V for the first time in a month today. The battery got quite low, and it went onto a trickle charger before the weekend. It started up fine, but the driver side door window now doesn't move at all (either when you open the door, or when you try to lower it).
If you pull up on the switch, there is a clicking noise coming from inside the door. If you push down on the switch, nothing happens. The passenger side works fine.
I've tried disconnecting the battery for a minute, but this hasn't had any effect. Has anyone had this problem before, or have any ideas on what might be wrong?
Thanks,
Nick
ETA: I've not tried pulling fuse 82 yet (don't have my T30 screwdriver where I am this week), but would disconnecting the battery for a minute have the same effect?
I used my V8V for the first time in a month today. The battery got quite low, and it went onto a trickle charger before the weekend. It started up fine, but the driver side door window now doesn't move at all (either when you open the door, or when you try to lower it).
If you pull up on the switch, there is a clicking noise coming from inside the door. If you push down on the switch, nothing happens. The passenger side works fine.
I've tried disconnecting the battery for a minute, but this hasn't had any effect. Has anyone had this problem before, or have any ideas on what might be wrong?
Thanks,
Nick
ETA: I've not tried pulling fuse 82 yet (don't have my T30 screwdriver where I am this week), but would disconnecting the battery for a minute have the same effect?
Edited by NickXX on Sunday 3rd September 18:39
I have a variation on the usual window drop problems.
After replacing the battery, the window drop ceased to work, as expected. However, the standard reset didn't work for either door. Pulling and replaciing fuse 82 for the passenger door and fuse 83 for the driver's got the driver's door dropping correctly first time, but the passenger door just wouldn't cooperate.
After numerous hard and soft resets, it now 'bumps' when the door is opened or closed, but nowhere near as far as the other door.
Is there any way to increase the distance?
After replacing the battery, the window drop ceased to work, as expected. However, the standard reset didn't work for either door. Pulling and replaciing fuse 82 for the passenger door and fuse 83 for the driver's got the driver's door dropping correctly first time, but the passenger door just wouldn't cooperate.
After numerous hard and soft resets, it now 'bumps' when the door is opened or closed, but nowhere near as far as the other door.
Is there any way to increase the distance?
In my case, I had to take it to a dealer for a new regulator ~£500 (short story).
Long story was that I took the door card off, unscrewed and removed the window motor and it started working! Rather than doing the sensible thing of screwing it back on, I decided to look at how the window regulator worked by manually turning it. This caused the spigot to pop out, and unwind all of the cabling.
I must have spent two hours trying to re-wind the cabling back into the mechanism before giving up, close to tears. Grange did a wonderful job of replacing it all and sparing my blushes.
So in summary, take the doorcard off, remove the motor (carefully). By removing the motor, you might be lucky enough to free it up (easy to test as it will spin when you use the window controls). Once you’ve verified this, screw it back on. Don’t be tempted to touch anything else!
Long story was that I took the door card off, unscrewed and removed the window motor and it started working! Rather than doing the sensible thing of screwing it back on, I decided to look at how the window regulator worked by manually turning it. This caused the spigot to pop out, and unwind all of the cabling.
I must have spent two hours trying to re-wind the cabling back into the mechanism before giving up, close to tears. Grange did a wonderful job of replacing it all and sparing my blushes.
So in summary, take the doorcard off, remove the motor (carefully). By removing the motor, you might be lucky enough to free it up (easy to test as it will spin when you use the window controls). Once you’ve verified this, screw it back on. Don’t be tempted to touch anything else!
I had a similar problem - however I have no direct cause (like the battery being low)...I have a convertible and the passenger window was down from just a regular daily use. I left the car at a parking garage and when I returned I couldn't operate the window...still I could raise the top (rather important hahaha) - got home a little colder than I was before. But then the top would NOT retract (obviously the controlling computer needs window control to work)
I took the door card off (easy except you will easily pop the window switch from its mount as the cable is very short and easily pulls the switch out)...aside...I had to epoxy the switch tab that broke off back in place overnight...and still its VERY hard to replace the card with the switch in place and the cable connected.
TIP: disconnect the window switch cable by TILTING the card NOT removing it completely (that's too late) and reaching in to pull the connector off (reverse on re-installation)
Anyway - the solution for me turned out to be disconnecting the door control module (three connectors) and then replugging the connectors on again.
That sounds like a good old "full reset" - and I wish I'd had the fuse numbers in hand as that is likely the easiest.
Anyway, the top started working as soon as the window was back working (and yes I replaced that convertible top computer about a year ago) - looks as if AM aren't careful on power low conditions to correctly reset things in the right order to ensure the "ballet all synchronizes to the music".
I took the door card off (easy except you will easily pop the window switch from its mount as the cable is very short and easily pulls the switch out)...aside...I had to epoxy the switch tab that broke off back in place overnight...and still its VERY hard to replace the card with the switch in place and the cable connected.
TIP: disconnect the window switch cable by TILTING the card NOT removing it completely (that's too late) and reaching in to pull the connector off (reverse on re-installation)
Anyway - the solution for me turned out to be disconnecting the door control module (three connectors) and then replugging the connectors on again.
That sounds like a good old "full reset" - and I wish I'd had the fuse numbers in hand as that is likely the easiest.
Anyway, the top started working as soon as the window was back working (and yes I replaced that convertible top computer about a year ago) - looks as if AM aren't careful on power low conditions to correctly reset things in the right order to ensure the "ballet all synchronizes to the music".
Hi guys, I have a bit different issues - my driver window drops and closes when opening and closing the door.
But when I use window switch to fully move uo&down the window, it doens't move at all.
Not sure if this is the issue with the switch module rather than door module or regulator.
If these are the issues, I believe the window drop when opening the door wouldn't work either.
Pls asvise on this point.
Thanks
But when I use window switch to fully move uo&down the window, it doens't move at all.
Not sure if this is the issue with the switch module rather than door module or regulator.
If these are the issues, I believe the window drop when opening the door wouldn't work either.
Pls asvise on this point.
Thanks
First thing to try with any window/door locking/mirror issue is to remove the fuses for the door modules.
It’s worked on a couple of occasions for me, I followed the instructions in this video.
https://youtu.be/vp2T4xiWAEs
It’s worked on a couple of occasions for me, I followed the instructions in this video.
https://youtu.be/vp2T4xiWAEs
Emily's dad said:
First thing to try with any window/door locking/mirror issue is to remove the fuses for the door modules.
It’s worked on a couple of occasions for me, I followed the instructions in this video.
https://youtu.be/vp2T4xiWAEs
Hi, thanks for your comments and I already tried fuse and battery disconnection, but it still doesn't work.It’s worked on a couple of occasions for me, I followed the instructions in this video.
https://youtu.be/vp2T4xiWAEs
it still only drops the window only opening the window, but doesn't go&down at all.
I will try to do 2 steps : 1) door card off and then disconnect the module 2) check and replace the switch
Any other suggestions and thoughts?
Hi.
Have you got new window modules fitted in yours. My passenger window drops all the way when the door is opened. I had new modules and software installed a year ago. I don’t want to remove the fuses incase it effects the new modules differently. The soft switch reset option is no longer there with these new modules. Or at least the audible sounds are no longer there. Odd thing with my window issue. It will suddenly behave itself for a couple of days. How did you get on?.
Have you got new window modules fitted in yours. My passenger window drops all the way when the door is opened. I had new modules and software installed a year ago. I don’t want to remove the fuses incase it effects the new modules differently. The soft switch reset option is no longer there with these new modules. Or at least the audible sounds are no longer there. Odd thing with my window issue. It will suddenly behave itself for a couple of days. How did you get on?.
I have a 2011 V8 Vantage - hope this helps people. After 3 weeks of no use on pressing the fob unlock the doors unlocked, but mirrors failed to unfold fully due to battery voltage. Shortly after jumping/starting I found no function of drivers (rhs) door lights/mirror/glass. So I opened the convenient handy fusebox with the special tool and replaced fuse 83. This helped - after the first power down/fuse replace I regained lights/locks/mirror but no glass function - just a clicking for both up and down. After a second fuse 83 removal, but this time waiting five minutes still no door glass control on the drivers side. So I tried a few ignition cycles - no change though. After a third fuse 83 removal wait 3-5mins and replace I regained full function of the rhs door module including glass control and proper drop. I always removed fuse 83 ignition key out, but not sure how long it takes for BCM and door modules to power down - maybe when the PATs light goes out - so maybe I just caught a different wake state? Anyway, keep trying the power cycles on door modules because for some reason multiple resets work! Also it's worth trying resets before the deadlock/PATs timeout and after incase there's a difference i.e. 1-2mins and at 3-5mins.
Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff