Old car needs work - what would you do here?
Discussion
Hi all,
I drive a 2003 Honda Accord Type S 2.4 litre petrol. It has done 151,000 miles. I bought it for £1400 in December 2015 at 135,000 miles.
MOT today wasn't too bad at all. It needs both front lower ball joints doing at £130 the pair which is a very reasonable price from my local garage.
The advisories were front tyres getting close to minimum, which I knew anyway but was waiting to make sure car got through the MOT before doing them.
And the rear arch rust also got an advisory for the first time. It is getting pretty bad now, has got alot worse in the 20 months I've owned the car.
Not advisories in the MOT, but the car does need new brake discs, pads and fluid all round.
The clutch is also squealing on pull away, not all the time, and it still drives ok but pedal is heavy and clutch bearing must be fairly worn now.
The rust will probably cost me at least £400 to solve and that is going to be a short life repair for that money. Doing the tyres will be £100. Doing the brakes all round £200 if I do it myself. Clutch, maybe £400 at a local place. This is already more than the car is worth.
I don't want to do the clutch if I can't solve the rust, because that rust could be an MOT failure next year if chunks of the rear arches start falling off.
The engine is good as far as I can tell. The car itself drives well and is tidy on the bodywork otherwise.
I have to get the car through the MOT in any case, so that is £130 to do that regardless. Plus annual oil change which I will still get done so thats £40 on top. Total £170. I then have several options.
1. Don't do any work on the car except for tyres (cost £100)
2. Do tyres and brakes (cost £300)
3. Get the rust done, which then means I'd want to keep the car going because of that outlay. I'd then also get the clutch done and try and get a bit more pride in the car, get the bodywork clayed and polished, get the engine cleaned up a bit, valve clearances checked, spark plugs done etc.
4. Chop it in now and get a new car.
I am having great difficulty deciding what to do for the best. Can anyone offer any advice please?
If I was to get a new car, I'd realistically want to spend up to £7k. I could spend £10 to £15k, but it would be a big financial commitment to do that.
I drive a 2003 Honda Accord Type S 2.4 litre petrol. It has done 151,000 miles. I bought it for £1400 in December 2015 at 135,000 miles.
MOT today wasn't too bad at all. It needs both front lower ball joints doing at £130 the pair which is a very reasonable price from my local garage.
The advisories were front tyres getting close to minimum, which I knew anyway but was waiting to make sure car got through the MOT before doing them.
And the rear arch rust also got an advisory for the first time. It is getting pretty bad now, has got alot worse in the 20 months I've owned the car.
Not advisories in the MOT, but the car does need new brake discs, pads and fluid all round.
The clutch is also squealing on pull away, not all the time, and it still drives ok but pedal is heavy and clutch bearing must be fairly worn now.
The rust will probably cost me at least £400 to solve and that is going to be a short life repair for that money. Doing the tyres will be £100. Doing the brakes all round £200 if I do it myself. Clutch, maybe £400 at a local place. This is already more than the car is worth.
I don't want to do the clutch if I can't solve the rust, because that rust could be an MOT failure next year if chunks of the rear arches start falling off.
The engine is good as far as I can tell. The car itself drives well and is tidy on the bodywork otherwise.
I have to get the car through the MOT in any case, so that is £130 to do that regardless. Plus annual oil change which I will still get done so thats £40 on top. Total £170. I then have several options.
1. Don't do any work on the car except for tyres (cost £100)
2. Do tyres and brakes (cost £300)
3. Get the rust done, which then means I'd want to keep the car going because of that outlay. I'd then also get the clutch done and try and get a bit more pride in the car, get the bodywork clayed and polished, get the engine cleaned up a bit, valve clearances checked, spark plugs done etc.
4. Chop it in now and get a new car.
I am having great difficulty deciding what to do for the best. Can anyone offer any advice please?
If I was to get a new car, I'd realistically want to spend up to £7k. I could spend £10 to £15k, but it would be a big financial commitment to do that.
question is, do you like the car and how much would it cost you to get something better if you scrap it?
Personally I would do the minimum to keep it going safely until it dies then get something else, that based on the fact that rust is never easy/cheap to properly get rid so it will start becoming both an eyesore and a money pit. And there is no point doing the clutch if the rust is going to get it soon.
That is the approach I am taking on my Mazda 6, rust will eventually kill it but it refuses to fail an MOT so brake pads, tyres and oil/filter are all it will get until it does. To make it long term viable would need bodywork, clutch, suspension bushes/joints and a clean of the PCV valve (in the hope it will stop it drinking oil).
Personally I would do the minimum to keep it going safely until it dies then get something else, that based on the fact that rust is never easy/cheap to properly get rid so it will start becoming both an eyesore and a money pit. And there is no point doing the clutch if the rust is going to get it soon.
That is the approach I am taking on my Mazda 6, rust will eventually kill it but it refuses to fail an MOT so brake pads, tyres and oil/filter are all it will get until it does. To make it long term viable would need bodywork, clutch, suspension bushes/joints and a clean of the PCV valve (in the hope it will stop it drinking oil).
rovermorris999 said:
Do the tyres and brakes for safety's sake, run for the next year and see if it passes the next MOT. If it does, keep it for yet another year. If not, on ebay for spares or repairs or get it through the MOT if cheap enough.
So the issues with this option are:1. I can't do anything else on the car. I fancy doing a few DIY jobs, keeping it running nice.
2. When it does fail I only have a very short period to sort myself a new car. This would be very difficult with family duties and work, to source a new car that I would be happy with (cars I like always seem to be fairly hard to get hold of - large estates with reasonable power).
3. The rust on the rear gets worse and worse and starts turning into holes and chunks falling off. Looks very horrible already.
shtu said:
Do bare minimum to obtain MOT. Sell immediately as "12 months MOT".
I don't think I could sell it with the arch rust it has, at least, not for any more than a couple hundred quid. I might have more luck getting a trade in on something newer at a garage if I'm paying upto £7k, maybe.brman said:
question is, do you like the car and how much would it cost you to get something better if you scrap it?
Personally I would do the minimum to keep it going safely until it dies then get something else, that based on the fact that rust is never easy/cheap to properly get rid so it will start becoming both an eyesore and a money pit. And there is no point doing the clutch if the rust is going to get it soon.
That is the approach I am taking on my Mazda 6, rust will eventually kill it but it refuses to fail an MOT so brake pads, tyres and oil/filter are all it will get until it does. To make it long term viable would need bodywork, clutch, suspension bushes/joints and a clean of the PCV valve (in the hope it will stop it drinking oil).
Yeah sounds similar to my position. I do like the car, but would like to get hands dirty with some DIY jobs, but can't justify that if the rust is not dealt with.Personally I would do the minimum to keep it going safely until it dies then get something else, that based on the fact that rust is never easy/cheap to properly get rid so it will start becoming both an eyesore and a money pit. And there is no point doing the clutch if the rust is going to get it soon.
That is the approach I am taking on my Mazda 6, rust will eventually kill it but it refuses to fail an MOT so brake pads, tyres and oil/filter are all it will get until it does. To make it long term viable would need bodywork, clutch, suspension bushes/joints and a clean of the PCV valve (in the hope it will stop it drinking oil).
Getting a new car that I like will be hard because there are not many large estates with reasonable power and quality around really, unless I pay alot more for something much newer.
Edited by danlightbulb on Tuesday 5th September 21:15
How much tread is left on the tyres?
What annual miles do you do ?
Though £100 for new tyres and winter coming I'd likely change them.
Brakes honestly it's past the MOT so I'd leave that and if your going down the run it till it breaks option then you only need to top up the oil (though £20 to DIY it seems a better option).
The problem as I see it is the clutch. It's fecked you know it when that lets out your stranded. Will it last a year or best part of? If so you could squeeze another 10 months out of it then sell it with 2months MOT.
Another one is to start to look now and if a nice car comes up buy it and then sell the current car privately
What annual miles do you do ?
Though £100 for new tyres and winter coming I'd likely change them.
Brakes honestly it's past the MOT so I'd leave that and if your going down the run it till it breaks option then you only need to top up the oil (though £20 to DIY it seems a better option).
The problem as I see it is the clutch. It's fecked you know it when that lets out your stranded. Will it last a year or best part of? If so you could squeeze another 10 months out of it then sell it with 2months MOT.
Another one is to start to look now and if a nice car comes up buy it and then sell the current car privately
was wondering the other day how you got on with that rotten arch , so all the promises of kurust fixing it didnt work huh
id have a look on youtube etc and patch it up with some filler and aerosol cans , could keep it respectable for a few years and not much money , not worth having it done properly
id have a look on youtube etc and patch it up with some filler and aerosol cans , could keep it respectable for a few years and not much money , not worth having it done properly
Welshbeef said:
How much tread is left on the tyres?
What annual miles do you do ?
Though £100 for new tyres and winter coming I'd likely change them.
Brakes honestly it's past the MOT so I'd leave that and if your going down the run it till it breaks option then you only need to top up the oil (though £20 to DIY it seems a better option).
The problem as I see it is the clutch. It's fecked you know it when that lets out your stranded. Will it last a year or best part of? If so you could squeeze another 10 months out of it then sell it with 2months MOT.
Another one is to start to look now and if a nice car comes up buy it and then sell the current car privately
About 12k a year currently. Tyres are almost at the wear markers on the front, rears still have life.What annual miles do you do ?
Though £100 for new tyres and winter coming I'd likely change them.
Brakes honestly it's past the MOT so I'd leave that and if your going down the run it till it breaks option then you only need to top up the oil (though £20 to DIY it seems a better option).
The problem as I see it is the clutch. It's fecked you know it when that lets out your stranded. Will it last a year or best part of? If so you could squeeze another 10 months out of it then sell it with 2months MOT.
Another one is to start to look now and if a nice car comes up buy it and then sell the current car privately
Brakes - I have had a pulsing brake feel for a while, and the discs are at the minimum service thickness, badly rusted on the non-friction surfaces. Pads still have life but calipers are badly rusted and need cleaning up. This was a job I was looking forward to doing myself, give the car a bit of TLC for personal satisfaction.
I see no reason why the clutch won't last a year. Its not slipping, but has been squealing and heavy for ages.
I'd have to get the loan now if I was going to keep an eye out for a car. Problem is deep down I know any car could give me a hefty bill 6 months after I buy it and Im no better off than keeping this. Oh if it wasn't for that rust, this could be a car to be looked after.
steveo3002 said:
was wondering the other day how you got on with that rotten arch , so all the promises of kurust fixing it didnt work huh
id have a look on youtube etc and patch it up with some filler and aerosol cans , could keep it respectable for a few years and not much money , not worth having it done properly
I tried treated it early doors but it made no difference. Couldn't keep spending £20 a can (or whatever the price is) for spray on treatment. Its quite bad now, and under the arches some areas of metal have disintegrated and fell off leaving sharp edges.id have a look on youtube etc and patch it up with some filler and aerosol cans , could keep it respectable for a few years and not much money , not worth having it done properly
Problem with trying to patch it that I can see is there is nothing to shape the filler on to. I'll try get some photos up tomorrow when its light.
I'd like to have a go myself, really would, but worried if I start sanding it the whole thing will disintegrate in front of my eyes.
You would not believe what some people spend on a car, we are putting a used engine in a car thats worth £1000 on a good day - its already covered over 160k.The cost of fitting, and servicing the car plus what they must be spending on a used car must be in excess of £1500.
Are the ball joints part of the lower arm ? if its 2 arms fitted and tracked £130 is good, if the ball joints don't need the arms then it sounds expensive.
Personally i'd get it through the MOT, brakes and tyres are consumables and if you buy used the chances are you would have to replace them anyway. The rust i would leave, the clutch i would leave until it loses drive, then it would go on ebay as spares or repairs.
Are the ball joints part of the lower arm ? if its 2 arms fitted and tracked £130 is good, if the ball joints don't need the arms then it sounds expensive.
Personally i'd get it through the MOT, brakes and tyres are consumables and if you buy used the chances are you would have to replace them anyway. The rust i would leave, the clutch i would leave until it loses drive, then it would go on ebay as spares or repairs.
OP from your reply re loans It's clear that keeping this on the road is the best option.
As you say it's a nice enough car and does the job you need it to do.
Why not get a quote from a proper body shop to fix the rust properly then you have a real value vs guesstimate.
Or search for your car online how much are they selling for? You could buy one without ruined clutch ok ish brakes no rust then keep yours to salvage the best bits off of it. eBay it then as a car with 11months MOT.
As you say it's a nice enough car and does the job you need it to do.
Why not get a quote from a proper body shop to fix the rust properly then you have a real value vs guesstimate.
Or search for your car online how much are they selling for? You could buy one without ruined clutch ok ish brakes no rust then keep yours to salvage the best bits off of it. eBay it then as a car with 11months MOT.
steve-5snwi said:
Are the ball joints part of the lower arm ? if its 2 arms fitted and tracked £130 is good, if the ball joints don't need the arms then it sounds expensive.
Personally i'd get it through the MOT, brakes and tyres are consumables and if you buy used the chances are you would have to replace them anyway. The rust i would leave, the clutch i would leave until it loses drive, then it would go on ebay as spares or repairs.
No they are removable units. Its £65 a side all in which I thought sounded very reasonable. Pretty much the whole front suspension has to be dismantled and the joint pressed out. Parts (£15 per side) plus £50 labour per side sounded ok to me, including the VAT. Ive used the same garage for years they have done a good job in the past.Personally i'd get it through the MOT, brakes and tyres are consumables and if you buy used the chances are you would have to replace them anyway. The rust i would leave, the clutch i would leave until it loses drive, then it would go on ebay as spares or repairs.
Welshbeef said:
OP from your reply re loans It's clear that keeping this on the road is the best option.
As you say it's a nice enough car and does the job you need it to do.
Why not get a quote from a proper body shop to fix the rust properly then you have a real value vs guesstimate.
Or search for your car online how much are they selling for? You could buy one without ruined clutch ok ish brakes no rust then keep yours to salvage the best bits off of it. eBay it then as a car with 11months MOT.
I will get a quote. Worry is trusting that the job will be ok before handing over the car. Could end up a right mess if get the wrong bodyshop. Can't win really.As you say it's a nice enough car and does the job you need it to do.
Why not get a quote from a proper body shop to fix the rust properly then you have a real value vs guesstimate.
Or search for your car online how much are they selling for? You could buy one without ruined clutch ok ish brakes no rust then keep yours to salvage the best bits off of it. eBay it then as a car with 11months MOT.
Could look at another I guess. Anywhere between a grand and four grand for the mk7 (£4k seems inflated to me) and for the mk8 anywhere from £4k to £9k but these seem to be mostly diesels. Not really jumping out as a good option.
From the way you are talking I think you need to get shot of it. The rust is obviously pretty well gone so I doubt it worth spending time and money on the other stuff. If you did get the rust fixed I reckon (given it is a honda.....) it would come back somewhere else in a year or so.
So the question is, what to replace it with. TBH, if you want something cheap you can keep and fettle then you need cars that don't tend to rust. So Honda, Mazda, Ford(?), merc, bmw are probably out.
There are still plenty of other options though, especially if you stick with early 2000 models. Pug 406 estate? Skoda Octavia? Volvo? Saab? Maybe Audi or VW?
Personally I would not be too worried about buying a cheap car then finding it will cost you money. The basics (ie what you have found on your honda) are easy to spot when buying and if you did get unlucky then you should know within a few months so just get shot of it and try again. I am assuming you are a reasonably competent DIY mechanic.
I think the key is not to worry too much about mileage, buy on condition. eg my brother bought a 150k mile Pug 406 Estate for £500. It is now at around 300k miles and the engine, gearbox and clutch have not been touched - just service stuff, brakes and suspension.
So the question is, what to replace it with. TBH, if you want something cheap you can keep and fettle then you need cars that don't tend to rust. So Honda, Mazda, Ford(?), merc, bmw are probably out.
There are still plenty of other options though, especially if you stick with early 2000 models. Pug 406 estate? Skoda Octavia? Volvo? Saab? Maybe Audi or VW?
Personally I would not be too worried about buying a cheap car then finding it will cost you money. The basics (ie what you have found on your honda) are easy to spot when buying and if you did get unlucky then you should know within a few months so just get shot of it and try again. I am assuming you are a reasonably competent DIY mechanic.
I think the key is not to worry too much about mileage, buy on condition. eg my brother bought a 150k mile Pug 406 Estate for £500. It is now at around 300k miles and the engine, gearbox and clutch have not been touched - just service stuff, brakes and suspension.
'Reasonably competent' is over exaggerating my skills in all honesty. I can do some things, like spark plugs, changing filters, changing the odd switch if its accessible. I should be able to do pads and discs provided there are no complications. I wouldn't venture into disassembling suspension, or removing belts.
Having the time to do jobs is the tough one. And the risk that if I start a job on a Saturday then come up against a problem then I'm screwed with no access to a 2nd vehicle.
Having the time to do jobs is the tough one. And the risk that if I start a job on a Saturday then come up against a problem then I'm screwed with no access to a 2nd vehicle.
Get it through its MOT, put tyres on it (good selling point) and put it on Ebay.
In the meantime get what loan you need to get something like this.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
Yes. its boring and not fast but its a good size and with the petrol engine it will go on forever if maintained correctly.
No need to spend £7k+
In the meantime get what loan you need to get something like this.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
Yes. its boring and not fast but its a good size and with the petrol engine it will go on forever if maintained correctly.
No need to spend £7k+
I don't want to spend £4k on something mundane. I know that may be irrational but I can't bring myself to do it.
Here is the rust. Doing this on mobile so sorry if images come out massive.

Hmm not worked not sure why. Will have to do it on desktop tonight.

Here is the rust. Doing this on mobile so sorry if images come out massive.
Hmm not worked not sure why. Will have to do it on desktop tonight.

Edited by danlightbulb on Wednesday 6th September 10:43
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