engine heat management
Discussion
with summer coming, thoughts go to a hot engine.
Thinking of managing the under bonnet heat.
Current principle thoughts are;
1 Get rid of the heat with it too readily leaking into the engine area.
2 Insulate components to improve performance/reduce damage.
To do this I am considering:
- wrapping the exhaust in heat wrap [or getting it enammelled/ceramicicised or whatever that stuff is]
- putting heat reflectors on the rad header expansion tanks/other relevant stuff
- heat reflectors on the spark plug boots
- reflector on the induction pipe
I reckon the whole lot will cost about/sub £300 all up.
Thoughts folks - waste of money or a good low cost tweak/sensible prevention to machinery degeneration?
Cheers
J
Thinking of managing the under bonnet heat.
Current principle thoughts are;
1 Get rid of the heat with it too readily leaking into the engine area.
2 Insulate components to improve performance/reduce damage.
To do this I am considering:
- wrapping the exhaust in heat wrap [or getting it enammelled/ceramicicised or whatever that stuff is]
- putting heat reflectors on the rad header expansion tanks/other relevant stuff
- heat reflectors on the spark plug boots
- reflector on the induction pipe
I reckon the whole lot will cost about/sub £300 all up.
Thoughts folks - waste of money or a good low cost tweak/sensible prevention to machinery degeneration?
Cheers
J
Jem
Totally agree with protecting the induction pipe; in fact ACT have started selling custom-made jobbies for this very purpose.
I'd think very carefully about using exhaust wrap. As Podie says, the heat will just move somewhere else. My zorts get blardy hot under the car in any event (no exhaust wrap) and I'd be hesitant to do anything which could generate more heat in that area.
There's even divided opinion on whether shielding the more sensitive components (e.g. starter motor) for fear of trapping any heat in.
I guess my first question would be - are you actually having any problems with overheating, or are you just being pre-emptive. I think it's much better to try to get the fans etc working properly first to see if heat can be kept down, before resorting to more drastic (and expensive) measures.
I had Austec fit the Leven Cool Runnings Kit for me (lower firing otter switch, new thermostat and water wetter (mixes with the coolant)). My cooling's far better now, as the fans kick in earlier. There are other options too, such as a fan override switch and gizmos which mean that the fans remain on even after the ignition's been switched off.
Totally agree with protecting the induction pipe; in fact ACT have started selling custom-made jobbies for this very purpose.
I'd think very carefully about using exhaust wrap. As Podie says, the heat will just move somewhere else. My zorts get blardy hot under the car in any event (no exhaust wrap) and I'd be hesitant to do anything which could generate more heat in that area.
There's even divided opinion on whether shielding the more sensitive components (e.g. starter motor) for fear of trapping any heat in.
I guess my first question would be - are you actually having any problems with overheating, or are you just being pre-emptive. I think it's much better to try to get the fans etc working properly first to see if heat can be kept down, before resorting to more drastic (and expensive) measures.
I had Austec fit the Leven Cool Runnings Kit for me (lower firing otter switch, new thermostat and water wetter (mixes with the coolant)). My cooling's far better now, as the fans kick in earlier. There are other options too, such as a fan override switch and gizmos which mean that the fans remain on even after the ignition's been switched off.
Save your money. If the cooling system is in good condition the car's do not overheat. It is also surprising how quickly the induction system will cool down once the car is moving. There is an awful lot of air going through it!
Exhaust wrap will corrode the manifolds because they retain moisture.
Exhaust wrap will corrode the manifolds because they retain moisture.
Save your money. If the cooling system is in good condition the car's do not overheat. It is also surprising how quickly the induction system will cool down once the car is moving. There is an awful lot of air going through it!
Exhaust wrap will corrode the manifolds because they retain moisture.
Exhaust wrap will corrode the manifolds because they retain moisture.
I have had a fan override switch fitted to my Chim 500 - Fernhurst recommended and fitted this for me as a "sensible" cooling upgrade. Must say it just "feels good" to have the ability to control the fans at will.
(Not that the car has ever overheated in during my 3 week ownership....!)
BTW - Anyone got feedback on the Leven "Water Wetter" based system?
(Not that the car has ever overheated in during my 3 week ownership....!)
BTW - Anyone got feedback on the Leven "Water Wetter" based system?
The best way of protecting against heat is simply to remove the heat from the equation.
If you're working in the sun, and you're sweating cobs, the last thing you do is put on a fur coat - you go and stand under a fan, or in a breeze.
Don't try and insulate the exhausts, get the heat off of the exhausts instead. Keep the fans on at the front of the car (fan override switch).
The other thing to do is make sure the fans are on in the cockpit, they do quite a good job of removing excess heat from the engine bay.
If you're working in the sun, and you're sweating cobs, the last thing you do is put on a fur coat - you go and stand under a fan, or in a breeze.
Don't try and insulate the exhausts, get the heat off of the exhausts instead. Keep the fans on at the front of the car (fan override switch).
The other thing to do is make sure the fans are on in the cockpit, they do quite a good job of removing excess heat from the engine bay.
intereestign stuff thanks folks,
seems like the concensus is not to bother insulating the exhaust.
I guess tho that the physics of the situation is to keep the heat IN the exhaust so it pops out the other end - seems to make sense to me but WTF do i know.
Nuggs, it's just preemptive, I;ve got a fan override switch and water wetter, but just wondering.
J
seems like the concensus is not to bother insulating the exhaust.
I guess tho that the physics of the situation is to keep the heat IN the exhaust so it pops out the other end - seems to make sense to me but WTF do i know.
Nuggs, it's just preemptive, I;ve got a fan override switch and water wetter, but just wondering.
J
Best thing I did to reduce running temps was get the radiator re-cored, eventually.
Thats not to say every Tiv needs doing but if you have high running temps it is an area worth investigating once you've done the cheap fixes, such as bleeding air out of the system, fixing small leaks, keeping it topped up, renewing pressure cap etc.
As said, a healthy system will run fine, low to mid 90's, albeit with a very hot engine bay
.
Harry
Thats not to say every Tiv needs doing but if you have high running temps it is an area worth investigating once you've done the cheap fixes, such as bleeding air out of the system, fixing small leaks, keeping it topped up, renewing pressure cap etc.
As said, a healthy system will run fine, low to mid 90's, albeit with a very hot engine bay
. Harry
HarryW said:
Best thing I did to reduce running temps was get the radiator re-cored, eventually.
Thats not to say every Tiv needs doing but if you have high running temps it is an area worth investigating once you've done the cheap fixes
Just done the same, rad was not leaking but the core was knackered. When I saw the old core off the rad it was not hard to see it has not been working properly for some time. The new core has slightly more capacity, I changed the otter switch for one that came on marginally sooner at the same time, it now has no problems at all sitting in traffic.
petros said:
have got Water wetter in my 450 and have noticed absolutely no diff. in running temp. also have fan override switch . Found the best thing to do is to turn the fans on when ever the traffic looks like it's very slow.
Mine was exactly the same before the rad core swop, see above.
Personally I'd leave it alone unless there's something to fix. Mine has never gone above 90 degrees except once in summer 2003 - one of the stupidly hot days - when I was in a traffic jam. Even then it didn't get past 95 degrees.
I know the the heat is getting out from under the bonnet quite well by the heat haze I get from the vents.
In fact, my biggest heat related problem is getting a clear view through the heat haze.
I know the the heat is getting out from under the bonnet quite well by the heat haze I get from the vents.
In fact, my biggest heat related problem is getting a clear view through the heat haze.
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