New owner - ecu log - opinion

[Chimp871]

Just got it on Sat (4.2) and logged a short drive today.

I would appreciate an opinion on whether its roughly in line with 'normal' or there's work to do.

Especially the lambdas.

Ps - what the heck are 'adaptives'?



https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5UkclnIHQ5jeUxXR...

[Byker28i]

Tha adaptives are the slight changes the car is auto tuning itself. Should be a few percent, if lots then there's something wrong, I.e mine were when I had a coil pack up and it was trying to correct the over rich mix.

Sometimes if it's gone way out then you reset the adaptives and just drive the car for ten mins and it sorts itself out. If I'm abroad and can't get decent super unleaded I have to rest them to make the car run better.
From the attached it all looks about right I think.

Edited by Byker28i on Monday 2nd October 20:09

[ukkid35]

Probably worth another look with the engine up to temp.

I have discovered recently that when the engine bay does warm up, one of the TPS starts misbehaving badly, but when cold it seems fine.

[Chimp871]

repeated with the engine now warm

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5UkclnIHQ5jbjlyN...

[NuddyRap]

For your next run, unless the data just wasn't downloading on my phone so I couldn't see more of it, I suggest you give it a bit more stick. You'll learn a lot based on how it behaves with high RPM.

Graph each of the columns (and pairs of columns where there are 2 threads of data) against RPM and that usually shows up quite nicely wether or not there are any problems.

From what I can see scrolling down on my phone, the Tpots look to be doing roughly the same thing together? The lambdas aren't massively wild so they are probably functioning correctly themselves and the adaptives aren't trimming off 50% or anything crazy. Both banks seem to have the same character so far as I can see. Need to see the data properly on a PC against my own to comment on real numbers.

Put on every parameter RS AJP has to offer, kick the car's ass a bit when warm and make some graphs.

Edited by NuddyRap on Thursday 5th October 18:52

[Chimp871]

good idea. TP2 below seems erratic.

[1485]

Chimp871 said:

good idea. TP2 below seems erratic.

sorry to hijack, but the readings on this engine are totally and utterly wrong, firstly at 1352rpm the throttle pots should not be reading 19.1 and 18.7 they should be around 19.8-20.1 at idle 950-1000rpm so at 1352rpm you should expect around 30-32 might be higher cant remember off hat but its been a while, on the throttles,the lambdas are out of range too (lower and max values)this however could be due to the tpots not correctly set so they are trying to over compensate, my advice would be to get a set up disc preferable a factory one run on windows 98 or xp, check the tappet clearances and set the engine from scratch. you will also need a syncrometer to measure how much each side/bank is sucking in (airwise) as this is not possible by computer. just had a look at the cold run up and the tpot readings are even worse have you checked that the tpots are not loose as it seems that when you throttle off/on there is excessive movement on them!

Edited by 1485 on Wednesday 4th October 21:59

[Chimp871]

Thanks 1485 I appreciate the good honest advice as I don't know what is good or bad. Rather I knew now and all that.......

The PC is no problem, I've seen the software online somewhere but heard that a regular serial cable shouldn't be used snd possible ecu probs.

I've been researching on here (from TVR workshop manual) about setting TP at 15% to start with and tweak from there but I've one or two other setups as well so not sure which is best but suppose the TVR version is a place to start.

[Byker28i]

All you ever need is here:
http://www.thetvrsite.com/

[NuddyRap]

Hope I didn't mislead... But are you sure on those idle tpot values you said? I have 16.8 stuck in my head for a 950 idle from Mr Joolz.. unless I'm missing something or recalling it wrong, hence my thoughts that those readings IRO 20 at 1300 ish aren't too bad.

As has been said, Cerbera website, plus also any website, post or article by Joolz, joospeed, trackcar or kits and classics (All Julian Lane).

If in doubt, and you're able to travel to chesterfield go and see him. Best few £s you will ever spend on a car. He is Yoda to the Cerbera.

[Chimp871]

Hi Nuddy

I know Joolz up in chesterfield he did a rolling road for my 450 after I put in a stealth cam. Great guy.

I will get up there at some point but I know he prefers cars to be in decent running order.

I'll start from scratch and measure tappets and then disconnect throttle linkage, reset TP, measure air flow (ordered a syncrometer) etc.

Like I said the learning curve is the problem so all help appreciated.

[1485]

Chimp871 said:

Thanks 1485 I appreciate the good honest advice as I don't know what is good or bad. Rather I knew now and all that.......

The PC is no problem, I've seen the software online somewhere but heard that a regular serial cable shouldn't be used snd possible ecu probs.

I've been researching on here (from TVR workshop manual) about setting TP at 15% to start with and tweak from there but I've one or two other setups as well so not sure which is best but suppose the TVR version is a place to start.

ignore the TVR manual throw it away, we changed the set up. Firstly check the tappet clearances,so get the manual back out of the bin, once the tappets are set, Remove each Tpot one at a time and check that the holes have been drilled out to 6.5mm, if not drill and refit,remove throttle bar, and make sure each ball joint moves freely after undoing nuts (remembering that one side is left hand thread)remove the throttle cable and slacken off the idle adjust so it doesnt contact,and all butterflies are closed . connect computer and turn ignition on. on tpot1 adjust to 16.9/17.1 then do the same on tpot2, fit throttle bar and adjust as one of the tpots will move(throttle1 on 4.2 is different to throttle1 on 4.5)so reset using the bar back to 16.9/17.1. then with the idle adjust screw up till tpot1 reads 19.8/20.1 and then adjust tpot2 to the same using the connecting bar. start engine, check each inlet with syncro and note the value(should be 5.5-6kg/hour or suck value)add each side up and get a value,balance the sides/banks together either by idle adjust or con bar or use an air screw in the butterflies. once balanced ,check the tpot values and adjust to same19.8/20.1 and check readings on comp. tighten connecting rod nuts,connect throttle cable, remove faults from ecu and reset adaptives, check lambda values(and they are switching up/down voltage)set idle speed with idle adjust (900-1000rpm) job done.

[Chimp871]

Okay so set the throttle setup as per gent above and I have a fluctuation Tpot that won't settle and is flicking +/-1.5 all the time. But they are very close to above recommendation and a lot better than before.

Reset adaptives and took it for a drive. Net result is I can wheel spin in 2nd and 3rd now (unintentional!) and idle is 900-1000, so we're heading the right way.

However, using my new gadget a syncrometer the odd bank total was 16.5 v even 14. I take it I can adjust each body adjusting that large allen bolt just past throttle butterfly. I noticed they are seized solid and after rounding the head of a bolt securing manifold to head trying to get to tappet/cam area, I didn't want another battle on my hands. For that bolt plus gas, heat, ezi out or all the above!
Tappets will have wait another day.

Anyway after the drive the bad news adaptives were ok to start with but on the overrun would go as much as -30 v -0.4, lambdas I'm not sure are working well and assume for now that uneven bank airflow is a problem and may be the cause of the wild adaptives & lambdas.......

Comments?

Edited by Chimp871 on Wednesday 11th October 21:37

[FarmyardPants]

The adjustable link bar controls the relative throttle openings between the banks. On a 4.5 if the odd (nearside) bank is showing higher airflow you need to lengthen the bar I believe, not sure if the 4.2 throttles work the same way but someone will be along soon to clarify

Edited by FarmyardPants on Thursday 12th October 14:16

[Chimp871]

In my small mind I'm thinking get the airflow balanced first, then set the tpots to 16.9 then reattach link bar, rebalance tpots, then adjust idle screw.

I also read elsewhere that getting the adaptives to ~0 was more important

Its just like owning a chim