Boat Polishing
Discussion
I've just retrieved my boat back from its Summer base on the Isle of Wight and put it into my dry store for the Winter.

I've never ant-fouled it as its not in the sea for more than a few weeks at a time and jet wash in between those times. It now needs a good valet and I'll use YB10 as it's given me good results before.
Any thoughts about waxing it afterwards though? Just quality car polish or is something more exotic needed for the GRP. Maybe the excuse I've been waiting for to treat myself to a machine polisher!
I've never ant-fouled it as its not in the sea for more than a few weeks at a time and jet wash in between those times. It now needs a good valet and I'll use YB10 as it's given me good results before.
Any thoughts about waxing it afterwards though? Just quality car polish or is something more exotic needed for the GRP. Maybe the excuse I've been waiting for to treat myself to a machine polisher!

psi310398 said:
Can't advise on what compound/polish to apply but suggest you use a DA polisher as fibreglass and other non-metal synthetics don't like too much heat which is easy to do with a simple rotary mop.
Ask me how I know!
Peter
I guess you burnt the gel coat by leaving it stationary for too long? Maybe got some grit in the mop? Ask me how I know!
Peter
One thing is that a machine will make the job faster, but also at times of trouble will do damage faster too.A DA is safer for sure, but slower - much slower to a result. The question is, how much of your life do you want to spend holding it against the boat compared to using a rotary with the proper technique - perhaps learned from some videos and practiced beneath the waterline?
Polishes? You will get answers for just about every option. For a white hull like yours, I would be tempted with a marine product containing PTFE for stain resistance and longevity. But like everything, the final finish will depend on what you do before the wax to get it ready for polish. Can't see in the pic the level of oxidation you have to get sorted before wax.
Bottom line. Get some music on, and enjoy the process.
I've nothing to worry about compared to that SlimRick!
Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline and mould type spots particularly around the transom. I know it's not likely to go back to perfect white but as an indoor winter project, I'll give it my best shot!
........and if it involves a new toy which seems to be the case, it just got loads better!
Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline and mould type spots particularly around the transom. I know it's not likely to go back to perfect white but as an indoor winter project, I'll give it my best shot!
........and if it involves a new toy which seems to be the case, it just got loads better!
LFB531 said:
I've nothing to worry about compared to that SlimRick!Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline and mould type spots particularly around the transom. I know it's not likely to go back to perfect white but as an indoor winter project, I'll give it my best shot!
As has already been mentioned - cutting compound followed by a polish/wax will transform the look of your hull and a powered orbital buffer is an absolute must - you'll be there for the rest of your life without one!!!If you've got any mould spots, staining or yellowing, get some oxalic acid crystals, mix them with water, apply liberally, leave for half an hour and wash off . . . you won't believe the difference
Rotary machine polisher ?
Just keep it moving !
If using cutting compound keep it damp and moving .
If its a variable speed model keep the speed down until you get confident .
Be very careful of corners , edges , coach lines , decals and paint joint lines .
It is very satisfying when you get it right.
Just keep it moving !
If using cutting compound keep it damp and moving .
If its a variable speed model keep the speed down until you get confident .
Be very careful of corners , edges , coach lines , decals and paint joint lines .
It is very satisfying when you get it right.
LFB531 said:
I've nothing to worry about compared to that SlimRick!
Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline and mould type spots particularly around the transom. I know it's not likely to go back to perfect white but as an indoor winter project, I'll give it my best shot!
........and if it involves a new toy which seems to be the case, it just got loads better!
Try Y10 on the yellowing (although somebody will be along in a minute to tell you to make your own from toilet cleaner). Brush on, wait, wash off. Gets the yellow off with no polishing at all.Just general yellowing along the keel to waterline and mould type spots particularly around the transom. I know it's not likely to go back to perfect white but as an indoor winter project, I'll give it my best shot!
........and if it involves a new toy which seems to be the case, it just got loads better!
Polish will get the chalky white stuff of the surface and leave it shiny.
A decent rotary polisher running on almost its slowest setting, and some practice.
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