Discussion
gruffalo said:
FarmyardPants said:
Yes, the light should come on.
Thanks, good news. Nick
Just changed for a 125amp midi fuse, only took about 5 mins to do despite looking to be a pain to get at it was really ready one handed job.
Just got to pick my daughter up from a friend's later so will see if it has sorted or if it is the alternator.
I had the electric was pump seize on me a couple of weeks ago, that is fused at 70 amps so pitt allot of strain on both the fuse and alternator.
Just got to pick my daughter up from a friend's later so will see if it has sorted or if it is the alternator.
I had the electric was pump seize on me a couple of weeks ago, that is fused at 70 amps so pitt allot of strain on both the fuse and alternator.
It is possible that the fuse could develop a hairline crack in it. The charging light may only glow faintly and can easily not be noticed. You get all sorts of rough-running and flat battery symptoms caused by the charging cct from the alternator being intermittent or insufficient to charge the battery.
gruffalo said:
Bugger, still not charging, I guess the regulator in the alternator is fried.
Will test and order tomorrow as required.
Hello gruffalo, i'm saddened to read that you are having electrical problems with your TVRWill test and order tomorrow as required.
I don't wish to come across as I know everything about car electrics but I do know something that I feel you may have not thought of yet
That horrible 100 AMP fuse for the Alternator is only fitted because whoever designed your cars electrics had no confidence in their work and were scared of the Alternator positive wire shorting out and burning your car to ashes
The 100 AMP fuse connects directly to the Diodes inside the Alternator and the problem is that if the car engine is running when the fuse blows or goes faulty the Diodes in the Alternator will often go pop (Blow)
I doubt very much that the regulator alone will be faulty, there is a very good chance that the regulator will be ok but the diodes are very likely to be the cause of the Alternator not charging
I hope you understand the above and if you are unsure about anything please don't hesitate to post back here
I'm not meaning to teach grandmother to suck eggs so apologise in advance if I am doing so
Have a good day and I hope you get your TVR fixed soon
Ordering a new alternator today so as to minimise down time.
I will then strip the old one and repair as required so I have a spare in the garage for the next time it goes pop, this must be the third alternator that has given up after being asked for a high current be delivered. On previous occasions it has been the regulator that has gone causing high voltage problems, this time it is not charging at all so I suspect it is indeed the diode pack that has failed.
I will then strip the old one and repair as required so I have a spare in the garage for the next time it goes pop, this must be the third alternator that has given up after being asked for a high current be delivered. On previous occasions it has been the regulator that has gone causing high voltage problems, this time it is not charging at all so I suspect it is indeed the diode pack that has failed.
Blown several of them and never cooked the alternator. I can also see no reason whatsoever that it would cook the alternator. Both ends of the rectifier pack diodes would be at the same potential if the fuse blew and that is not going to damage them. Change the fuse and away you go. Go for something a bit meatier in terms of it's mechanical construction. The existing fuse holder will likely be charred and just putting a new fuse in will leave you stranded sometime very soon.
Edit, I read the thread now... It's the holder most likely or even the cables burned up for an inch or two either side of the holder as it gets hot when it arcs and sparks.
Edit, I read the thread now... It's the holder most likely or even the cables burned up for an inch or two either side of the holder as it gets hot when it arcs and sparks.
Edited by fatjon on Monday 16th October 10:56
fatjon said:
Blown several of them and never cooked the alternator. I can also see no reason whatsoever that it would cook the alternator. Both ends of the rectifier pack diodes would be at the same potential if the fuse blew and that is not going to damage them. Change the fuse and away you go. Go for something a bit meatier in terms of it's mechanical construction. The existing fuse holder will likely be charred and just putting a new fuse in will leave you stranded sometime very soon.
Edit, I read the thread now... It's the holder most likely or even the cables burned up for an inch or two either side of the holder as it gets hot when it arcs and sparks.
Hello fatjon, I don't wish to lecture you, you have been one of the lucky onesEdit, I read the thread now... It's the holder most likely or even the cables burned up for an inch or two either side of the holder as it gets hot when it arcs and sparks.
Edited by fatjon on Monday 16th October 10:56
Take a look at uncontrolled voltage and also have a think about regulators that use the battery positive at the alternator for battery sensing
Voltage rising, rising, rising and pop goes something, damn-it the diodes are ok it was an ECU popping
Stay lucky and have a good afternoon
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff