No starter motor engage?
Discussion
Probably a simple issue but thought I would ask for advice first.
Battery on my Griff had gone flat and I've finally got round to remove and replace with a new battery.
Ignition all lit up, alarm reset and then turned off via remote so as fuel pump can be heard priming but when key turned to engage starter motor there is nothing at all. No solenoid click, absolutely nothing.
Could it be that fuse underneath the car or something else?
Thanks in advance for any advice
Rob
Battery on my Griff had gone flat and I've finally got round to remove and replace with a new battery.
Ignition all lit up, alarm reset and then turned off via remote so as fuel pump can be heard priming but when key turned to engage starter motor there is nothing at all. No solenoid click, absolutely nothing.
Could it be that fuse underneath the car or something else?
Thanks in advance for any advice
Rob
Good evening RobXjcoupe
If you have a multimeter you could start off by testing voltages at the starter including the crank wire, battery and also the engine earth/return side
You could also switch the headlights on and see if they go out when in the crank position which may or may not point you in the right direction
Not meaning to teach my grandmother how to suck eggs but - Have you definitely connected all the battery leads up and tight
Also, is there by any chance a redundant immobiliser on the vehicle that is still wired into the crank wire?
If you have a multimeter you could start off by testing voltages at the starter including the crank wire, battery and also the engine earth/return side
You could also switch the headlights on and see if they go out when in the crank position which may or may not point you in the right direction
Not meaning to teach my grandmother how to suck eggs but - Have you definitely connected all the battery leads up and tight
Also, is there by any chance a redundant immobiliser on the vehicle that is still wired into the crank wire?
Edited by Penelope Stoppedit on Tuesday 17th October 20:15
Penelope Stoppedit said:
Good evening RobXjcoupe
If you have a multimeter you could start off by testing voltages at the starter including the crank wire, battery and also the engine earth/return side
You could also switch the headlights on and see if they go out when in the crank position which may or may not point you in the right direction
Not meaning to teach my grandmother how to suck eggs but - Have you definitely connected all the battery leads up and tight
Also, is there by any chance a redundant immobiliser on the vehicle that is still wired into the crank wire?
Basically I've changed a dead battery, car has been left garaged for 12 months then today I removed the old and changed to a new battery.If you have a multimeter you could start off by testing voltages at the starter including the crank wire, battery and also the engine earth/return side
You could also switch the headlights on and see if they go out when in the crank position which may or may not point you in the right direction
Not meaning to teach my grandmother how to suck eggs but - Have you definitely connected all the battery leads up and tight
Also, is there by any chance a redundant immobiliser on the vehicle that is still wired into the crank wire?
Edited by Penelope Stoppedit on Tuesday 17th October 20:15
All re-connected as it was prior to working except no starter or solenoid. I can hear a relay clicking on and off in turn with turning the ignition key to starter motor postion.
I'll have a closer look at the rats nest of wires in the morning, maybe corroded connection as car has sat for so long without starting?
Thanks for the reply, I do appreciate the advice
Try this. First of all though you need to know that when you turn the key to the crank position the alternator and oil warning lights stay on.
If the alternator and oil warning lights stay on - Try the following
Looking very closely at the alternator or oil warning light turn the key into the crank position and see if there is a very slight dimming of the warning light you are looking at. If the warning light dims a little this is a sure sign that the starter motor solenoid is taking some current.
When a starter motor solenoid takes some current but doesn't click in and doesn't turn the starter motor there is every chance that the starter motor is suffering from bad commutation (In laymans terms - bad contact faces at brushes to commutator)
Due to your vehicle standing for a year there is a possibility that the starter motor is suffering from bad commutation. Please don't laugh at this next bit.
Sometimes a good blow with a hammer to the main rear of the starter motor barrel will bounce the brushes enough to get the starter turning, it is good to have someone hold the key in the start position while another person hits the starter motor barrel
Below is an example
MAKE SURE CAR IS IN NEAUTRAL
If the alternator and oil warning lights stay on - Try the following
Looking very closely at the alternator or oil warning light turn the key into the crank position and see if there is a very slight dimming of the warning light you are looking at. If the warning light dims a little this is a sure sign that the starter motor solenoid is taking some current.
When a starter motor solenoid takes some current but doesn't click in and doesn't turn the starter motor there is every chance that the starter motor is suffering from bad commutation (In laymans terms - bad contact faces at brushes to commutator)
Due to your vehicle standing for a year there is a possibility that the starter motor is suffering from bad commutation. Please don't laugh at this next bit.
Sometimes a good blow with a hammer to the main rear of the starter motor barrel will bounce the brushes enough to get the starter turning, it is good to have someone hold the key in the start position while another person hits the starter motor barrel
Below is an example
MAKE SURE CAR IS IN NEAUTRAL
Penelope Stoppedit said:
Try this. First of all though you need to know that when you turn the key to the crank position the alternator and oil warning lights stay on.
If the alternator and oil warning lights stay on - Try the following
Looking very closely at the alternator or oil warning light turn the key into the crank position and see if there is a very slight dimming of the warning light you are looking at. If the warning light dims a little this is a sure sign that the starter motor solenoid is taking some current.
When a starter motor solenoid takes some current but doesn't click in and doesn't turn the starter motor there is every chance that the starter motor is suffering from bad commutation (In laymans terms - bad contact faces at brushes to commutator)
Due to your vehicle standing for a year there is a possibility that the starter motor is suffering from bad commutation. Please don't laugh at this next bit.
Sometimes a good blow with a hammer to the main rear of the starter motor barrel will bounce the brushes enough to get the starter turning, it is good to have someone hold the key in the start position while another person hits the starter motor barrel
Below is an example
MAKE SURE CAR IS IN NEAUTRAL
I know exactly what you are explaining, my father is a retired electrical engineer and he stills like to tell me the stories of generators, high voltage testing and squirrel cage rotors If the alternator and oil warning lights stay on - Try the following
Looking very closely at the alternator or oil warning light turn the key into the crank position and see if there is a very slight dimming of the warning light you are looking at. If the warning light dims a little this is a sure sign that the starter motor solenoid is taking some current.
When a starter motor solenoid takes some current but doesn't click in and doesn't turn the starter motor there is every chance that the starter motor is suffering from bad commutation (In laymans terms - bad contact faces at brushes to commutator)
Due to your vehicle standing for a year there is a possibility that the starter motor is suffering from bad commutation. Please don't laugh at this next bit.
Sometimes a good blow with a hammer to the main rear of the starter motor barrel will bounce the brushes enough to get the starter turning, it is good to have someone hold the key in the start position while another person hits the starter motor barrel
Below is an example
MAKE SURE CAR IS IN NEAUTRAL
.Well my dash lights or led lights are all there and lit but I didn't take note of any dimming.
Commutators and brushes I'll check also, good ole dad showed me those too when he rewound a couple of scalextric motor armatures when I was a kid.
Hopefully will get the v8 fired up by tomorrow afternoon
citizen smith said:
It could be simply corroded connections to the starter motor, The terminals may look O.K. externally, but the problems could be on the surface. My first thoughts would be the low tension wire spade connector.
That's true I now remember having a similar issue when I first bought the car many moons ago. I think the engine cranked though but I'll check that tomorrow as well RobXjcoupe said:
I know exactly what you are explaining, my father is a retired electrical engineer and he stills like to tell me the stories of generators, high voltage testing and squirrel cage rotors .
Well my dash lights or led lights are all there and lit but I didn't take note of any dimming.
Commutators and brushes I'll check also, good ole dad showed me those too when he rewound a couple of scalextric motor armatures when I was a kid.
Hopefully will get the v8 fired up by tomorrow afternoon
Good morning RobXjcoupe.Well my dash lights or led lights are all there and lit but I didn't take note of any dimming.
Commutators and brushes I'll check also, good ole dad showed me those too when he rewound a couple of scalextric motor armatures when I was a kid.
Hopefully will get the v8 fired up by tomorrow afternoon
Your father has the skills of a genius, I made an electric motor a while back but never took on rewinding my Scalextric Motors as they are so small
I hope you get your motor running today
If you are only going to jack up the front of the car be very careful whilst working on the starter motor.
A member of my wife's family was killed doing just this. He jacked up the front of his rear wheel drive car and put the car in gear to stop it moving. He then worked on the starter motor and it seems must have shorted it out thus driving it off the jack. Much safer, and more room, if you jack all four wheels off the ground.
The 100 amp fuse protects the alternator charging circuit. If it blows you will have a flat battery about 20miles later.
A member of my wife's family was killed doing just this. He jacked up the front of his rear wheel drive car and put the car in gear to stop it moving. He then worked on the starter motor and it seems must have shorted it out thus driving it off the jack. Much safer, and more room, if you jack all four wheels off the ground.
The 100 amp fuse protects the alternator charging circuit. If it blows you will have a flat battery about 20miles later.
Hedgehopper said:
If you are only going to jack up the front of the car be very careful whilst working on the starter motor.
A member of my wife's family was killed doing just this. He jacked up the front of his rear wheel drive car and put the car in gear to stop it moving. He then worked on the starter motor and it seems must have shorted it out thus driving it off the jack. Much safer, and more room, if you jack all four wheels off the ground.
The 100 amp fuse protects the alternator charging circuit. If it blows you will have a flat battery about 20miles later.
Wow what a shocking end of life!A member of my wife's family was killed doing just this. He jacked up the front of his rear wheel drive car and put the car in gear to stop it moving. He then worked on the starter motor and it seems must have shorted it out thus driving it off the jack. Much safer, and more room, if you jack all four wheels off the ground.
The 100 amp fuse protects the alternator charging circuit. If it blows you will have a flat battery about 20miles later.
I can assure you the battery will be disconnected to avoid any sparks whilst removing the starter motor and any accidental start up :s
Re 100amp fuse thank you
Don't check the 100amp fuse replace it.
They don't normally blow in the normal sense they fracture from vibration. Mounting it to the engine mount was another of TVR's bright ideas. It is very difficult to spot the fracture without actually unbolting the fuse so replace it whilst it is out.
Steve
They don't normally blow in the normal sense they fracture from vibration. Mounting it to the engine mount was another of TVR's bright ideas. It is very difficult to spot the fracture without actually unbolting the fuse so replace it whilst it is out.
Steve
Steve_D said:
Don't check the 100amp fuse replace it.
They don't normally blow in the normal sense they fracture from vibration. Mounting it to the engine mount was another of TVR's bright ideas. It is very difficult to spot the fracture without actually unbolting the fuse so replace it whilst it is out.
Steve
Is there a reason for that fuse anyway? Can it be deleted?They don't normally blow in the normal sense they fracture from vibration. Mounting it to the engine mount was another of TVR's bright ideas. It is very difficult to spot the fracture without actually unbolting the fuse so replace it whilst it is out.
Steve
RobXjcoupe said:
I know exactly what you are explaining, my father is a retired electrical engineer and he stills like to tell me the stories of generators, high voltage testing and squirrel cage rotors .
Well my dash lights or led lights are all there and lit but I didn't take note of any dimming.
Commutators and brushes I'll check also, good ole dad showed me those too when he rewound a couple of scalextric motor armatures when I was a kid.
Hopefully will get the v8 fired up by tomorrow afternoon
Your Dad sounds like a top man .Well my dash lights or led lights are all there and lit but I didn't take note of any dimming.
Commutators and brushes I'll check also, good ole dad showed me those too when he rewound a couple of scalextric motor armatures when I was a kid.
Hopefully will get the v8 fired up by tomorrow afternoon
Oldred_V8S said:
RobXjcoupe said:
I know exactly what you are explaining, my father is a retired electrical engineer and he stills like to tell me the stories of generators, high voltage testing and squirrel cage rotors .
Well my dash lights or led lights are all there and lit but I didn't take note of any dimming.
Commutators and brushes I'll check also, good ole dad showed me those too when he rewound a couple of scalextric motor armatures when I was a kid.
Hopefully will get the v8 fired up by tomorrow afternoon
Your Dad sounds like a top man .Well my dash lights or led lights are all there and lit but I didn't take note of any dimming.
Commutators and brushes I'll check also, good ole dad showed me those too when he rewound a couple of scalextric motor armatures when I was a kid.
Hopefully will get the v8 fired up by tomorrow afternoon
My background is mechanical as a toolmaker in body press tooling and now as a machine operator doing one offs as and when needed or necessary.
I get to make all those parts that are long since deleted via drawing or from what's left from a worn, damaged or corroded remnant of something lol
I'm the guy in the toolroom that gets approached to make the bits and bobs you can't buy.
I don't mind though, it's good to help out others Penelope Stoppedit said:
The 100 Amp fuse is only for stopping an electrical burn-out should the Alternator positive or its cable go down to earth
A 100 Amp Mega Fuse is better
I assume there is a badly routed power cable next to something hot then?A 100 Amp Mega Fuse is better
I'll have a nosey and see what I find
RobXjcoupe said:
........I get to make all those parts that are long since deleted via drawing or from what's left from a worn, damaged or corroded remnant of something lol
I'm the guy in the toolroom that gets approached to make the bits and bobs you can't buy. I don't mind though, it's good to help out others
Where you are they are probably called 'Homers' here in the Portsmouth area they are called 'Rabbits'.I'm the guy in the toolroom that gets approached to make the bits and bobs you can't buy.
I don't mind though, it's good to help out others 'Homer' - something you are taking home.
'Rabbit' - Same thing but dates back to the war where it would be difficult to get a 'Homer' out of the dockyard. At that time you were allowed to set snares in the dockyard to supplement rationing. When you left work you held up your rabbit for security on the gate to see.
It may just have been a rabbit but may also have something else inside it.
Steve
Steve_D said:
RobXjcoupe said:
........I get to make all those parts that are long since deleted via drawing or from what's left from a worn, damaged or corroded remnant of something lol
I'm the guy in the toolroom that gets approached to make the bits and bobs you can't buy. I don't mind though, it's good to help out others
Where you are they are probably called 'Homers' here in the Portsmouth area they are called 'Rabbits'.I'm the guy in the toolroom that gets approached to make the bits and bobs you can't buy.
I don't mind though, it's good to help out others 'Homer' - something you are taking home.
'Rabbit' - Same thing but dates back to the war where it would be difficult to get a 'Homer' out of the dockyard. At that time you were allowed to set snares in the dockyard to supplement rationing. When you left work you held up your rabbit for security on the gate to see.
It may just have been a rabbit but may also have something else inside it.
Steve
. They call them hobbles here at Bridgend engine plant Ford but I started out in Dagenham and they were just homers or a bit of homework .Right so back to this starter motor issue. I've finally got under the car and removed the starter motor to check for burnt or corroded wires of some sort.
Wires are all in serviceable condition, 100 amp fuse is perfect and the solenoid and starter work perfectly on the bench.
Now I'm thinking its an alarm issue.
I've located the fuel pump relay that the alarm uses to immobilise that but is there another that does the same on the starter motor solenoid?
Cheers for any help
Rob
Wires are all in serviceable condition, 100 amp fuse is perfect and the solenoid and starter work perfectly on the bench.
Now I'm thinking its an alarm issue.
I've located the fuel pump relay that the alarm uses to immobilise that but is there another that does the same on the starter motor solenoid?
Cheers for any help
Rob
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